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Looking to buy a cheap chainsaw.

Started by AnthonyLordi, March 18, 2014, 08:22:06 PM

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AnthonyLordi

I built a firepit in my back yard last summer, and it didn't get much use... Why you ask? Because I hardly had any lumber!
Why should I buy lumber at overpriced rates when I can cut it myself?
I have a family member with a lot of property and dozens of trees that have fallen years ago that are just waiting to be cut up.
They're pretty small trees, so I don't think I'll need a massive saw, maybe at the very most an 18".
It's going to get a small to medium amount of use, and it's just to keep me and the family warm while we watch movies outside, so beautiful logs are not required. I would like to spend under $200 if possible. (I know this is a low budget, but all it needs to do is cut up logs for occasional backyard fires.)
I have never operated a chainsaw, if that matters to which saw I should go with.

I've been looking at these saws and reading their reviews, but that still doesn't tell me which one is the better buy.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-50-cc-20inch-gas-chain-saw-case/p-07135098000P?prdNo=1
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-18-in-42cc-gas-chain-saw/p-07134190000P?prdNo=2
http://www.sears.com/remington-51cc-18inch-gas-powered-chainsaw/p-07135192000P?prdNo=3
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Poulan-Pro-18-Gas-Powered-Chain-Saw/22152680#Item+Description
http://tmhardwareandrental.stihldealer.net/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms170/
http://tmhardwareandrental.stihldealer.net/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms171/

Thank you guys in advance.

thecfarm

AnthonyLordi,welcome to the forum. First off you will need chaps. They will kill a 100 dollar bill,BUT since you never ran a saw before. Even guys that have run a saw for years wear chaps. I wear 'em.Than there is ear and eye protection,steel toe boots.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: thecfarm on March 18, 2014, 08:55:02 PM
AnthonyLordi,welcome to the forum. First off you will need chaps. They will kill a 100 dollar bill,BUT since you never ran a saw before. Even guys that have run a saw for years wear chaps. I wear 'em.Than there is ear and eye protection,steel toe boots.

Thank you for the welcome! I've already got top notch safety gear, minus the chaps, may I ask what exactly these are for, and do you have a suggestion for those?
Thank you for your quick reply.

thecfarm

They keep you out of the emergency room.  ;D
Well,that is true. If the chainsaw happened to cut into my chaps when the chain is moving the lining of the chap will explode and jam the chain.
Bailey's at the top right will have them. Chainsaw chaps. There must be a youtube on a saw cutting into chaps too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

POC

I had a Craftsman saw before my Stihl.  After a few years it needed new gas lines. And I ran over it with the tractor, had to replace the loop handle, but that was my fault, not the saw's.
And that's all I have to say about that,
Patrick

Hilltop366

Welcome AnthonyLordi, I don't have any experience with any of the saws you listed but I can add one, my brother has had good luck with his Husqvarna 435, he has cut enough wood to heat his house for two years now with no problems. lots of good reports for Echo as well. Dealer service and location should be a factor for making a decision.

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: Hilltop366 on March 18, 2014, 09:21:10 PM
Welcome AnthonyLordi, I don't have any experience with any of the saws you listed but I can add one, my brother has had good luck with his Husqvarna 435, he has cut enough wood to heat his house for two years now with no problems. lots of good reports for Echo as well. Dealer service and location should be a factor for making a decision.

That model exceeds my budget a bit, I appreciate it though.

There are a few service centers nearby, and there are a few dealer only places locally also, I must say I'm pretty capable of repairs myself on most other tools or appliances, so should that really matter?

Thank you.

bandmiller2

Whats as important as the saw is to drain the fuel and run dry before you store the saw. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Hilltop366

Quote from: AnthonyLordi on March 18, 2014, 09:28:02 PM
Quote from: Hilltop366 on March 18, 2014, 09:21:10 PM
Welcome AnthonyLordi, I don't have any experience with any of the saws you listed but I can add one, my brother has had good luck with his Husqvarna 435, he has cut enough wood to heat his house for two years now with no problems. lots of good reports for Echo as well. Dealer service and location should be a factor for making a decision.

That model exceeds my budget a bit, I appreciate it though.

There are a few service centers nearby, and there are a few dealer only places locally also, I must say I'm pretty capable of repairs myself on most other tools or appliances, so should that really matter?

Thank you.

Even doing your own service and repairs you still need access to parts, something to keep in mind.

And yes buy chaps or saw pants.

POC

I'd always go with a Stihl above the others listed.
And that's all I have to say about that,
Patrick

Knute

I would buy a good 50 or 60 cc saw from a reputable dealer with a good service technician.

sawguy21

For your use and budget,save yourself a lot of aggravation with a better quality used saw from a dealer rather than a cheap box store unit. You won't regret it. If you do buy privately have somebody that knows saws with you.
You will spend less time fixing and more time cutting. Husqvarna and Stihl offer top quality models and have the best support. Jonsereds and Echo are also very good but may not have a servicing dealer in your area. Just my 2 cents CDN 1.8 south of the border.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

jargo432

I saw what would be great for you in a pawn shop last week.  They had a Stihl 170 for $125.   I thought about buying it but I've got my heart set on something bigger.

don't forget craigslist and ebay.
Jack of all trades.

Andyshine77

Quote from: jargo432 on March 18, 2014, 11:40:54 PM
I saw what would be great for you in a pawn shop last week.  They had a Stihl 170 for $125.   I thought about buying it but I've got my heart set on something bigger.

don't forget craigslist and ebay.

$125 isn't much less than a new 170 from a dealer, that you know will work.

The OP doesn't need a 50cc or 60cc saw for what he's doing. Go to you're local dealer and pick up a nice little saw and be done with it. Stihl, Echo and Dolmar have a couple of nice options. The Husqvarna's saws around $200 like the 240 are pretty much Poulan saws with a higher price tag, they're even made in the same factory. The Earthquake saws from TSC are well made with mag cases, pretty much old RedMax zenoah saws.
Andre.

LeeB

Do you need a saw for other uses or is it just to feed your outdoor pit? Where are you located and what are firewwod prices in your area. For occasional use, $200 should/will buy you enough to last you for a good while with no safety issues to worry about. A chainsaw is a dangerous piece of equipment.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: LeeB on March 19, 2014, 02:08:46 AM
Do you need a saw for other uses or is it just to feed your outdoor pit? Where are you located and what are firewwod prices in your area. For occasional use, $200 should/will buy you enough to last you for a good while with no safety issues to worry about. A chainsaw is a dangerous piece of equipment.

I had also intended to use it to cut down my father in laws small trees around his garage, and trim some of the smaller branches on a big oak tree in my back yard that are growing toward my home.
There aren't many local firewood sellers, to buy a face cord, I would have to travel over an hour and pay $120, and I don't have a truck so it would all have to be crammed in the back of my blazer. That seems absurd to me lol.
Quote from: bandmiller2 on March 18, 2014, 09:37:06 PM
Whats as important as the saw is to drain the fuel and run dry before you store the saw. Frank C.
Good piece of advice! Thank you.

------

The only local dealers I can find with a good reputation are stihl (already linked) and husqvarna dealers that sell the 240, and they don't give an exact price on their online links from husqvarna, just the MSRP of $210.
(Ebay listing deleted by admins) please read forum rules on posting such listings.

Andyshine77

The 240 is for the most part a Poulan Wild Thing, same engine. The Stihl MS170/171 or better yet 211 are overall better saws.
Andre.

LeeB

Sounds like you have some need for and want a chainsaw. Just please take the safety advice to heart. A chainsaw can teach you lessons that stay with you for the rest of your life.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: Andyshine77 on March 19, 2014, 02:42:33 AM
The 240 is for the most part a Poulan Wild Thing, same engine. The Stihl MS170/171 or better yet 211 are overall better saws.
Do you think the MS170 would suffice for my needs?
Quote from: LeeB on March 19, 2014, 02:58:30 AM
Sounds like you have some need for and want a chainsaw. Just please take the safety advice to heart. A chainsaw can teach you lessons that stay with you for the rest of your life.
I have wanted one for quite some time. Just finding out enough about them has been the issue.
I never mess around with safety, even with simple things like sanding my dining table, I always wear safety glasses, no need for a nuisance or trouble that can easily be avoided by wearing PPE and taking precautions.

Thank you guys for all your help so far.

Andyshine77

The 170 will likely do what you need it to. The 50cc Craftsman saw you listed is the same as the Poulan pro 5020. The 5020 isn't a bad saw whatsoever, and has pretty good power for what it is, the downside is the weight.
Andre.

red

You know what the Best saw is . . . A Sharp saw

Google How to sharpen a chainsaw
Honor the Fallen Thank the Living

Al_Smith

You want to buy a cheap saw with plenty of power? Look around and find a clean Mac PM 610 or 650.

It's a little heavy but nearly bullit proof and will cut about the same as any modern saw of the same displacement and can often be found for under 100 dollars . If it's not abused you'll never wear it out . ;D

ladylake

 
A MS170 is gutless but if you patient it will work, also built real cheap.  The best bang for the buck is a CS400 off Ebay, great saws or as Al mentioned a Mac 610 used.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

bandmiller2

If your working in the woods you need a gas saw around the yard an electric would be best, possibly a battery saw if you can find one. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: Andyshine77 on March 19, 2014, 04:09:19 AM
The 170 will likely do what you need it to. The 50cc Craftsman saw you listed is the same as the Poulan pro 5020. The 5020 isn't a bad saw whatsoever, and has pretty good power for what it is, the downside is the weight.
You seem to know your stuff!
What would be better, the 170 or the craftsman? Price-wise vs. quality?

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: Al_Smith on March 19, 2014, 07:39:53 AM
You want to buy a cheap saw with plenty of power? Look around and find a clean Mac PM 610 or 650.

It's a little heavy but nearly bullit proof and will cut about the same as any modern saw of the same displacement and can often be found for under 100 dollars . If it's not abused you'll never wear it out . ;D

I can't seem to find them in that price range that actually work. :/

Al_Smith

You could probabley do as well off of Graigslist as flea bay .With Graigslist you are dealing with one person not the entire world .Plus you get to see what you are buying .Factor in a known fact that looking at hard cash has a certain enticement that paypal can never hope to match .No shipping no fees ,win win situation .

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: Al_Smith on March 19, 2014, 08:17:35 AM
You could probabley do as well off of Graigslist as flea bay .With Graigslist you are dealing with one person not the entire world .Plus you get to see what you are buying .Factor in a known fact that looking at hard cash has a certain enticement that paypal can never hope to match .No shipping no fees ,win win situation .

The only ones I can find on my local CL is a MC 380 Power Mac @ $150, and an "Eager Beaver" @$80.

Al_Smith

On those Macs don't pay any attention to what a fleabay seller called "Just David" attempts to fetch for them .That guy has the gift of gab and the type written word .

As a reference those saws sold for $225 with a 20" bar and a bunch of tools .K-Mart sold them .Plain saw no goodys with a16" bar for $169.05 circa 1981 .Fact I have one purchased new from my deceased father .Runs as good today as it did back then .Actually a little better because the old man hada propensity to enhance things a tad bit .

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: Al_Smith on March 19, 2014, 08:27:23 AM
On those Macs don't pay any attention to what a fleabay seller called "Just David" attempts to fetch for them .That guy has the gift of gab and the type written word .

As a reference those saws sold for $225 with a 20" bar and a bunch of tools .K-Mart sold them .Plain saw no goodys with a16" bar for $169.05 circa 1981 .Fact I have one purchased new from my deceased father .Runs as good today as it did back then .Actually a little better because the old man hada propensity to enhance things a tad bit .

The only one that I can actually find there is this: (admin edit: eBay and Craigslist links aren't allowed.)
Are you seeing more results than I am?

Al_Smith

Quite frankly I wasn't looking at any .In addition to my personal one I used when I sold firewood and my fathers I bought 4 one year .

A few needed some mechanical work ,one a new coil and several needed bars and chains .One which was the nicest model I ever saw I gave to my son ,the others I sold for what I had in them to family and friends .

Saws just come to me when I least expect them .If they are decent and reasonabley priced  I buy them ,if not I walk on .

Al_Smith

I'll toss out another idea.The dead pile from a dealer .In my case from one dealer alone and every one 50 dollars or less I've cabbaged on to 6 Stihl saws .Now I'm talking a 200T ,024,038,038 Mag and an 034 Super but it needs some work .It was also only 25 bucks .Last was an 015 for 50 with a case, two extra chains .Perfect condition too .Owned by a doctor no less .

Now don't go that route unless you have some mechanical knowledge because dealer repairs often exceed the value of the saw .Which coincidently is exacting why they were in the dead pile to begin with .

Rockn H

To the OP question.   You say the trees "Have already fell and are pretty small".   For what you're wanting I'd go with the 18" Poulan Pro.  There's been a lot of change, consolidation, buy outs in the chainsaw manufactures.  For the size of saw "category" that you're wanting the poulan pro will last you fine.  The Poulan Pro, like other saws, are now made by Husquvarva and share a lot of the same parts.  Until you get to the larger "comercial" grade saws, you're not going to see a lot of difference.  When you're not planning on making a living toting this saw through the woods the weight shouldn't be that big of a factor either.  I've got a Poulan Pro that has been well used for about 5 years now and it hasn't had any problems.  I use it around the saw mill, carry it in the Ranger to cut trees out of the trail, use it in the boat for clearing log jams, cut firewood at the camp.   I bought this saw to use where I didn't want to use my Stihl and was expecting it to be like the poulan "Wild Things" that I'd seen used.  It's been a much better saw than the "Wild Things" I was used to.   I don't know where you're located, but in my area, if the town is large enough to have a store selling Poulans it also has a small engine shop that does warranty work and sells parts for Poulans.   Don't rely on Poulan's website that shows their "authorized service points"  it's not anywhere near complete. 

Before you start cutting up the trees that are down ( root ball still connected), take a moment and think about the pinch points so you don't get your saw hung while you're sawing.  There are some good videos showing different techniques for cutting downed trees on youtube that could give you some pointers.

THIS IS IMPORTANT..... No matter what saw you purchase, if it has an "easy crank" on it be careful cranking it until you get used to it.   A friend of mine has a MS170 and he bent the spring in the pull crank.  Not realizing the Poulan Pro 50cc had the easier crank feature, I bent the spring on one.   Warranty wouldn't cover either saw and they both cost $20 to fix.

Andyshine77

Quote from: AnthonyLordi on March 19, 2014, 07:59:47 AM
Quote from: Andyshine77 on March 19, 2014, 04:09:19 AM
The 170 will likely do what you need it to. The 50cc Craftsman saw you listed is the same as the Poulan pro 5020. The 5020 isn't a bad saw whatsoever, and has pretty good power for what it is, the downside is the weight.
You seem to know your stuff!
What would be better, the 170 or the craftsman? Price-wise vs. quality?

The Craftsman/Poulan would be the saw I'd buy, but remember you'll have no dealer to back the saw.

You're new to saws, so I wouldn't suggested looking at old heavy beat up saws, unless you want to work on saws as a hobby.
Andre.

Al_Smith

Well there isn't anything wrong with Craftsman saws but never the less I doubt you could buy one for a 100 bucks .Maybe a used one .I doubt Sears has sold a 100 dollar saw in the last 25-30 years .

Fact I worked on one late last year for a guy who payed out a 100 for it even as a used saw .Nice but still used .Bad gas line .50 cents worth of fuel line, a case of Budweiser for good old Al .I even filed the chain being such a nice guy . 8)

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: Andyshine77 on March 19, 2014, 11:16:48 AM
Quote from: AnthonyLordi on March 19, 2014, 07:59:47 AM
Quote from: Andyshine77 on March 19, 2014, 04:09:19 AM
The 170 will likely do what you need it to. The 50cc Craftsman saw you listed is the same as the Poulan pro 5020. The 5020 isn't a bad saw whatsoever, and has pretty good power for what it is, the downside is the weight.
You seem to know your stuff!
What would be better, the 170 or the craftsman? Price-wise vs. quality?

The Craftsman/Poulan would be the saw I'd buy, but remember you'll have no dealer to back the saw.

You're new to saws, so I wouldn't suggested looking at old heavy beat up saws, unless you want to work on saws as a hobby.
Quote from: Rockn H on March 19, 2014, 10:06:00 AM
To the OP question.   You say the trees "Have already fell and are pretty small".   For what you're wanting I'd go with the 18" Poulan Pro.  There's been a lot of change, consolidation, buy outs in the chainsaw manufactures.  For the size of saw "category" that you're wanting the poulan pro will last you fine.  The Poulan Pro, like other saws, are now made by Husquvarva and share a lot of the same parts.  Until you get to the larger "comercial" grade saws, you're not going to see a lot of difference.  When you're not planning on making a living toting this saw through the woods the weight shouldn't be that big of a factor either.  I've got a Poulan Pro that has been well used for about 5 years now and it hasn't had any problems.  I use it around the saw mill, carry it in the Ranger to cut trees out of the trail, use it in the boat for clearing log jams, cut firewood at the camp.   I bought this saw to use where I didn't want to use my Stihl and was expecting it to be like the poulan "Wild Things" that I'd seen used.  It's been a much better saw than the "Wild Things" I was used to.   I don't know where you're located, but in my area, if the town is large enough to have a store selling Poulans it also has a small engine shop that does warranty work and sells parts for Poulans.   Don't rely on Poulan's website that shows their "authorized service points"  it's not anywhere near complete. 

Before you start cutting up the trees that are down ( root ball still connected), take a moment and think about the pinch points so you don't get your saw hung while you're sawing.  There are some good videos showing different techniques for cutting downed trees on youtube that could give you some pointers.

THIS IS IMPORTANT..... No matter what saw you purchase, if it has an "easy crank" on it be careful cranking it until you get used to it.   A friend of mine has a MS170 and he bent the spring in the pull crank.  Not realizing the Poulan Pro 50cc had the easier crank feature, I bent the spring on one.   Warranty wouldn't cover either saw and they both cost $20 to fix.

I have been looking over some YouTube videos over the past few days trying to learn proper usage techniques, I'll definitely go more in-depth on learning to operate it for already downed trees.
If I buy from Walmart, I have no issues with returns, I used to work for the local walmart that I'm buying it from and everybody there knows me so they've been very lenient on the return policies for things that I've either broken myself or are out of the return policy. smiley_thumbsup

So this would be the one to get? http://www.walmart.com/ip/Poulan-Pro-18-Gas-Powered-Chain-Saw/22152680#Item+Description
Thank you for your response.

[edit] Should I purchase a different chain if I go with this saw? I've read some reviews stating that the chain that comes with it is awful.

JohnG28

That will likely do all you will ask of it. Don't expect it to be a monster, but do keep your head running it because any saw can bit you quickly. I'd say wait on chain, get it and run it first, and take it from there.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

AnthonyLordi

Quote from: JohnG28 on March 19, 2014, 04:00:05 PM
That will likely do all you will ask of it. Don't expect it to be a monster, but do keep your head running it because any saw can bit you quickly. I'd say wait on chain, get it and run it first, and take it from there.

Okay, thank you.
What kind of oils should I buy for this?

Claybraker

Looks like it comes with a case, mix for 1 gallon of fuel, and a quart of bar oil. Might want to grab a 5/32" file, according to the owner's manual.

ShaunUK

Jonsereds 70E-Husqvarna 51-Husqvarna 50 Rancher

7sleeper

@AnthonyLordi

Hello and welcome!

First off safety is extremely important! Chain saw chaps cost a fraction compared to the hospital bill! Further treatment is not even included in my example but will surely be needed! Why? Because chainsaw wounds are "dirty" wounds => debris, chain oil, etc. get into the wound and will surely cause an infection! If it becomes a major infection or not depends on luck & a few other things! So the choice is up to you.

Further what saw to choose?
I would not recomend a saw with less than ~40ccm/2hp or more than ~45ccm/3.5hp for your intended task. In that power range you will be able to work nicely. Below can become a pain as soon as the log gets a little larger.

Which brand?
Any of the established. Just to clarify.

Dolmar = Makita
Efco = Oleo Mac
Echo = Shindaiwa
Husqvarna = Jonsered = Red Max = Zenoah (the hobby line = Mc Culoch = Partner)
Hitachi = Tanaka
Solo = Cub Cadet
Stihl just Stihl  ;D

Any of these brands will be totally sufficient!

Watching videos to learn something is a good idea! BUT!!! watch good videos and read quality info. Not the idiots who believe they are doing cool things and surviving!

Good sources would be 
http://www.stihlusa.com/information/videos/

http://www2.worksafebc.com/Publications/Multimedia/Videos.asp?ReportID=36885

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Do5DfkHBhtg

http://www2.worksafebc.com/portals/forestry/FallingAndBucking.asp

http://faculty.forestry.ubc.ca/bendickson/FOPRLibrary/Index.html

good luck! and don't kill yourself!

7
edit: forgot

What would I choose?
Dolmar 421! The last saw you will ever need!

Although I also have a Poulan Pro and like it a lot!

7

Andyshine77

A 421 is well over $300.00 which is way over his $200.00 or less budget.
Andre.

JohnG28

I didn't catch where the OP said he's located,  if it was said? Only reason is there would be different bar oil to use if you're in a cold climate this time of year. Starting to warm up so maybe a non issue anyway. Otherwise I'd say for good measure use a little more oil in the mix for the first few tanks or gallons of fuel. Ex, use .8 gallon instead of a full gallon, making a 40:1 instead of recommended 50:1. It will be better for the saw, especially during break in.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

Weekend_Sawyer

Honestly, if you are just feeding a fire pit you could do it with a bowsaw and axe.
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

Weekend_Sawyer


Having said that if you really want a chainsaw you should have one.

Please remember safety first. Chaps, very important, So are eye and ear protection.
I just bought a new helmet system from Chainsawr (look at the sponsors on the left of the screen)
that has integrated face shield and ear muffs. very nice all in one system.

Keep your chain tight and your scrench in your pocket!
Jon
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

KiwiKen

The thing about a chainsaw is that our eyes are bigger than what's in our hands. That is probably how guys feel in Las Vegas. :D

You will never wish you had a cheaper/smaller/lower power saw once you buy one.

If you look at the question logically, you need a machine which will run reliably and keep cutting even in knotty logs and when there is pressure on the bar. Or...you learn about wedges, blocks, and highlift jacks.

Because with a small saw you are going to get jammed some day and its a frustrating experience. If you are prepared it won't be a problem.

Personally I recommend Stihl or Husquvarana. I'd buy an MS211 or preferably an MS251. Yes it is more money but they hold their value, the dealer support is good, and they are simply the best saw you can buy.

Kiwi.
009
MS 211 C
025
066
HS45

KiwiKen

Chaps: I used to spurn these as I would a rabid dog. I was a real man. Ha!

One fine evening (having used a chainsaw over 25 years), I was trimming some willow saplings with my Stihl 066 when I noticed a fearsome nip on my left thigh. That's odd. Hmmm...blood? Pain? Oh dear...

Sometime later my birthday present was a very expensive set of chainsaw chaps and I use them. Enough said.



Kiwi.
009
MS 211 C
025
066
HS45

KiwiKen

Finally an anecdote.

I am fortunate enough to share five Stihl saws with my family mainly because my brother still lives on the family farm (ranch). Three of them are mine.

So, I inherited an 009 Stihl from my dad recently and spent a busy day enjoying cutting branches and generally laying waste to shrubs and small trees. I was pleasantly surprised at how this old machine worked.

Then I reluctantly lifted the 066 which weighs a ton by comparison and snarled through 20 inches of knotted willow in about a minute. It was surreal. The sheer power of a pro saw with a good chain is something you have to experience.

The point is once again, you will never regret having a good saw. For the money look for a used machine and you won't regret it.
Kiwi.
009
MS 211 C
025
066
HS45

jargo432

Quote from: KiwiKen on March 20, 2014, 09:16:35 AM
The thing about a chainsaw is that our eyes are bigger than what's in our hands. That is probably how guys feel in Las Vegas. :D

You will never wish you had a cheaper/smaller/lower power saw once you buy one.

Looking online I thought maybe I'll get a ms391 untill I picked one up.  MAN thats a big saw.  I realized you CAN get too big of a saw.  I would wear myself out doing all of the limbing on an oak tree.  Now if I was cutting big tall straight trees where I would be doing a lot of bucking it would make sense.  After holding each saw I decided for the oak trees in my area an ms271 is the right saw. 

Now I just have to save a little more and I'll be able to buy one.  :D
Jack of all trades.

Rob5073

If you're really looking to stay at or below that $200 price point, check out an Echo CS310. It is a good little saw.  I use mine from time to time to cut up small diameter logs/branches for the firepit.  I have a Husqvarna 545 for the bigger firwood gathering sessions.  They sell Echo at Home Depot but call one of the sponsor retailers, in particular, Baileysonline.  I got a really good deal on the 310.

trapper

I asked about the echo cs310 in the chain saw area.  Look it up.  Seems like the best buy in a small saw.  That is what I plan to buy when my poulan dies.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

CTYank

Quote from: AnthonyLordi on March 18, 2014, 09:28:02 PM
Quote from: Hilltop366 on March 18, 2014, 09:21:10 PM
Welcome AnthonyLordi, I don't have any experience with any of the saws you listed but I can add one, my brother has had good luck with his Husqvarna 435, he has cut enough wood to heat his house for two years now with no problems. lots of good reports for Echo as well. Dealer service and location should be a factor for making a decision.

That model exceeds my budget a bit, I appreciate it though.

There are a few service centers nearby, and there are a few dealer only places locally also, I must say I'm pretty capable of repairs myself on most other tools or appliances, so should that really matter?

Thank you.

See how your budget works at VMInnovations dot com, for a 435.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

Oliver1655

Word of caution when tightening the bar nuts on a saws with the studs mounted in plastic like the Poulan Pro series.  You only need to snug them tight.  If you try to get them really tight you will pull the studs causing the plastic to bulge & the bar will not tighten at all.  There is a reason the scrench included with saws have a short handle/screwdriver.
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

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