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Inserted tooth Sawblade and teeth/shank ID

Started by Chop Shop, March 10, 2014, 08:53:43 PM

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Chop Shop

Hey guys,

I have a handful of blades.  I dont really have a ton of knowledge concerning them.  I know I need some of them.  I know some I dont need!

I also have some boxes and cans of teeth and shanks.

I have read here in the past where folks had blades they could no longer get shanks/teeth for.  Maybe I have some here that can help out with some hard to find stuff.

I live out here in the PNW so we have LOTS of old lumber mill history and lots of old equipment still out here being used.  So as I find old stuff it tends to follow me home.  I kinda live at a metal orphanage!

Ill throw up a few pics I have of a few of the blades.  Please help me to understand why/where I would use them pertaining to tooth style and tooth count.

Thanks Brad!

shelbycharger400


Chop Shop


bandmiller2

Brad, most of the Belsaw  saws I've seen or heard about use the Simonds "B" series  bits and shanks, no problem finding them. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Chop Shop

Only problem is I have blades from other than belsaws.   Some of them are real odd balls and may not be able to be used do to odd or large sized center bore holes.

Some will have value as blades and teeth, others may just be good for robbing the teeth and shanks for existing blades in use already.

I also have a half dozen blades in the 15-24 inch range too.  I just built a edger kinda saw and still have to decide which ones will work with the smaller saw.

It took me awhile to collect these and I have been to some neat places while searching for mill goods.  I figure there have to others looking for some of this stuff like I was!

Possum Creek

I think that is a #3 but its hard to see, do you have a close up of the bit and shank? Whatever it is it looks like it will work.

Chop Shop

Next one is a 28 inch with an odd center



  

 


Chop Shop

Quote from: Possum Creek on March 10, 2014, 09:11:14 PM
I think that is a #3 but its hard to see, do you have a close up of the bit and shank? Whatever it is it looks like it will work.

This is best pic of those teeth at the moment.  I wrote down all the marking that the teeth had.  Said  SJD on shank and teeth looked to be 5/16ths wide at tips.  I can measure if needed?



 

Possum Creek

I thought I saw a slot in the shank in the first pic but I think bandmiller2 is right it is probably a B tooth.

Possum Creek

However, the markings sjd might tell us it is a spears and jackson with D style teeth which is probably obsolete.

Chop Shop

Here is one that is BRAND NEW!  Its a R Hoe company.  Im having a hard time dating it.   The shanks have a 3x8 with an upside down "u" after that.



  

  

  

 

bandmiller2

That Hoe saw has #3 bits and shanks still available, what diameter is it.??Hoe will probably be the pick of the litter. Standard saws have a 2" center arbor hole with the two drive pin holes. Belsaw arbor holes are 1 3/8" you can use 2" but you will need a bushing ring. I think Belsaw used the smaller saw holes for one or two reasons 1) to limit the size of saws used on their arbors 2) so you would buy from them. Cordwood saws have 1 3/8" holes but they are not incerted bit and are setup for crosscut not rip. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Chop Shop

Thanks Frank,

Its a 40 inch with about a 5 inch center bore.


Are any of the blades I have with big (bigger than 4inches) center bores good for anything?   I was hoping that at least the teeth and shanks could be used.

Thats good info about the 1-3/8 bore for belsaw and cordwood saws. 

I have a 32" cordwood saw that I use behind my tractor.  It kicks ass for big ol fir limbs!

The guy I got a handful of these from ran a larger homemade mill that was a size larger than a belsaw, more like an older Frick or similar.

I have another 6 blades with 2 inch bores that I have yet to take pics of.



Another local guy here runs a belsaw (did, he is to bad of health now) and it had a smaller shaft than mine.   His was older then mine with older looking pulleys and such.  Mine has newer pressed out pulleys etc.  The blade end is still 1-3/8 but the shaft was larger than his.

bandmiller2

Brad, its a shame the saw has such a large center hole, must have been used on some sort of gang saw. A good hand on a lathe could machine a flange to fit and bolt it on. You have a wealth of saws I would hope some of them are usable. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

chopperdr47

Its too bad that you are about as far away from me as you can be and still be in the lower 48. I would really like to take a couple of those blades off your hands.
If ya ain't got what ya need, use what ya got

stoverguy

I'd vote for the 40" 3 style. You are going to want that extra couple inches of depth in the cut for sure. The rub collars only contact on the rim any way. I'm pretty sure my collars are bigger than the center hole in the picture so that blade would work with a filler center. If you don't have one find someone with a lathe to turn out a center disk for you. I'm up in Bellingham, if you are anywhere close I'd turn one out for you on my lathe but would want the blade to make sure it is a tight fit. Belsaws don't have the drive pins and rely on friction only. For what it's worth, I have both a B style and a 3 style 40" blade but find the 3 style works better for me.

shelbycharger400

ran out and checked my arbor  its 1 3/8,  and the blade  has 1 5/8 bore   ( i have a spacer ring)

hardtailjohn

I'm so far behind, I think I'm ahead!

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

The circle saw used for a headrig saw will have a small arbor and the two small holes for the guide pins.  The small shaft allows for maximum log diameters without increasing saw diameter.  But...

At 36" diameter, and allowing about 5" for the shaft and associated material, you could saw a maximum of 13" diameter log.  The tooth design for a small log would not have to be very large as you would not have much sawdust with a 13" log.  Yet the tooth design is so wide that it would seem more likely that this saw is a top saw, rather than a head saw.  With a top saw, we need the same tooth style that the head saw uses.

A gang resaw will have blades with a large shaft and multiple holes for fastening...the large diameter is needed due to the energy that the shaft has when sawing a large cant.

These are generalized comments and there could be exceptions.  Yet in the NW US where you are, I think that this is an accurate description of blades in the recent past time.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Chop Shop

I stated taking pics of the 40-56 inch blades last night.   I have about a dozen boxes/cans of teeth and shanks to post also.

Ill load up the pics tonight.    After going thru all the teeth and shanks, Im starting to learn the sizes and styles.

Also did some reading on gullet sizing in relation to log size and summer/winter tooth differences.

hardtailjohn

Chop Shop, sounds like we've been on parallel roads... I've spent the last couple days cleaning and going through boxes of teeth and shanks too.... reminds me of an old saying my Mom uses..."stacking BB's"... I think I know where it comes from now! :D  I'm trying to come up with what surplus I have, so I can get it out to whoever can use it and maybe they will have something I need.
John
I'm so far behind, I think I'm ahead!

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

The close up of the bit has a projection under the tooth.  This is what a Standal bit looks like.  That bit was developed for sawing frozen timber, as the shoulder is suppose to keep the sawdust moving within the gullet rather than freezing.  We used these bits all year however.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Chop Shop

Thanks Gene, I have been reading old threads here about circ saw blades/teeth.

I have read allot of your posts.  One thread was about the gullet size and you mention these and about frozen sawing them.  Thanks for continuing to educate us noobs!

Im starting to retain the differences now that I can relate them to different performance!

chopperdr47

If ya ain't got what ya need, use what ya got

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