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Wood-Mizer LT40 band-wheel install question

Started by Ga Mtn Man, March 09, 2014, 08:04:37 PM

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Ga Mtn Man

What is the correct procedure for re-installing the drive-side band-wheel on an LT40?  My concern is that as I tighten the bolts that pull the tapered bushing into the band-wheel bore, isn't the band-wheel being pulled away from the hub?

"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

bandmiller2

Yes it is, as you draw down a taperlock bushing they move the pulley close to the taperlock flange. What must be done is to move the taperlock and pulley assembly in farther to compensate. I can't tell you exactly how much because of shaft and taperlock tollerances . Something like 1/4",5/16 "should be about right. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Chuck White

And I have no idea, but I'm interested in the read!  :P
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

barbender

Too many irons in the fire

Brian_Rhoad

If it's a tapered bushing the bolts need to be torqued when you tighten them. There should be a space between the bushing flange and the pulley when the bolts are torqued to the correct amount.

StimW

I have had to take them back loose and re-position them for alignment.
Just make a note of how far off it is when tight and move it that far the next time.
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Ga Mtn Man

I called WM IN yesterday morning and was turned over to the guy who "will for sure know the answer"...Otto.  He said to position the bushing so the bevel on the end of the shaft is exposed (about 1/32") and tighten each bolt ΒΌ turn at a time to 108 in/lbs.  If you don't have a torque wrench he said to tighten the bolts until they become hard to turn.  Of course my definition of "hard to turn" and someone like customsawyer's definition (he's broken more than one of the hardened chrome WM outrigger rods) are likely two completely different things.  I think I need to buy a torque wrench.  Otto also recommended replacing the three bolts with grade 8 so that if they get rusted in place there's a better chance of getting them out without breaking.

StimW's comment is good advice.  The most important thing here is that the drive-side band wheel be in line with the idle-side band wheel.  To confirm this, take a measurement from the front of the band wheel to the back of the blade housing and compare it to the idle-side and adjust as required.  FYI, the idle-side band wheel is in a fixed position on it's shaft.

Here's a link to the manufacturer's instructions for installing a tapered bushing.  The REVERSE Mounting procedure applies in this case.
http://img.directindustry.com/pdf/repository_di/9091/general-catalog-246439_18b.jpg

Why did I have it off?  Well, that's a topic for another thread.  :) 
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

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