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Hemlock boards for farmhouse floor?

Started by GDinMaine, February 27, 2014, 07:43:08 PM

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GDinMaine

I was not sure what section to ask this question, but here it goes.
I'm contemplating putting down hemlock floor boards in my house.  It is an old farmhouse from the 1830's and has lots of old wide pine that is referred to as "pumpkin pine" (probably white pine) because it is nearly the color of pumpkins.  I really like the looks of hemlock both the grain and the honey color.  Depending on which one the Missus and I like better the boards will be either flat-sawn or quarter-sawn.  Flatsawn will match the other parts of the house a bit better, so I kind of lean towards that.

I was told that dry hemlock is harder then pine and I would have to drill before nailing so I will not split the boards.  I plan on doing it the old fashioned way, with different width boards and I will buy square nails to match the style of the old original floors.  Plan to finish it with linseed oil, but that might change.  This is an experiment that I will do in one room first.  If it works out well, I will replace some of the t&g in the house that was put down during renovations by previous owner.

Could anyone give pointers or what I should or should not do?
Thanks
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GAB

GDinMaine:
Based on what I have seen, when sawing, I suggest you not use hemlock boards from trees that had the shake.  If you do I doubt you'll be happy with your floor.  Gerald
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Brian_Weekley

I already have a stack of hemlock boards cut waiting to go down for my barn floor.  Hemlock was recommended by my sawyer for the barn floor because it's hard and durable.  He cut them in 6 inch widths to minimize gaps during shrinkage.  However, I'd probably prefer pine in my house.  I'll also be using cut nails so I'd be interesting in hearing if pre-drilling is necessary and curious what others might suggest as a finish.
e aho laula

Dave Shepard

I'd be really worried about splinters with hemlock.
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thecfarm

I used it for a sub floor for the Women Cave. I'm pretty sure it would split on the ends if dried. I don't know about if it would a few feet into the board. I put the floor down green.
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GDinMaine

At this point it is no more then an idea.  I have no logs yet. I would rather find out potential problems from experienced people instead of learning them the hard way.
It is just that I liked the way it looked when I sawed hemlock for other people.

Quote from: Dave Shepard on February 27, 2014, 08:53:37 PM
I'd be really worried about splinters with hemlock.
I have not heard that before,but could be a bad characteristic for a floor.

Quote from: Brian_Weekley on February 27, 2014, 08:39:13 PM
  I'll also be using cut nails so I'd be interesting in hearing if pre-drilling is necessary ...
I was told that it is rather hard when it dries and splits easier then pine when nails are used.  I have no personal experience with it. 
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

Dave Shepard

A neighbor of mine grew up in a ~200 year old house with hemlock floors. Said he was always picking splinters out of his feet as a kid. I know for timber frames, hemlock is usually reserved for barns, if at all.
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Peter Drouin

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GDinMaine

Planing and or sanding will not help the splinter problem?  Is that something that develops over time or is something one never gets rid of from the get-go? What is it about hemlock that does this?
Some details would be nice if anyone has experience.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

shinnlinger

I teach woodshop and once an order of pine showed up as hemlock.   I decided to keep it and see how it went.   Big mistake.   Splinter fest for the kids to the point I had to swap out.   It also seems I spend more time picking splinters out of my hands than framing whenever I build with hemlock.  If you put every stick "frown down" I'd give you a chance but it would be a footware mandatory house IMO.
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

routestep

I've heard there was a splinter potential with hemlock, but I never had it any more than any other wood. I used rough boards on the floor and walls. Air dried, no cracks to speak of. I never walked around bare foot as it was a shed. Hemlock was a bit cheaper than other woods - spruce and pine.

Hemlock can have shakes as a poster stated, but I just discarded those boards.

I had to pre-drill cedar though, used as siding on a barn my brother and I built. That was a time sink.

DaleK

Definitely going to be a splinter problem. I wouldn't do it.
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GDinMaine

Thank you for the responses.
It seems the opinions are pretty much split.  I talked to a sawyer and a couple of loggers in my area.  All old-timers in this neighborhood.  Two of them said it would be fine one said it would splinter. 
I'm leaning toward pulling the plug on the hemlock and cut white pine.  I would have plenty of each of my own logs, it's just the matter of making up my mind. 
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

BB

I just finished a new home for myself and used both hemlock and white pine for some flooring. The hemlock was used under a covered porch and the white pine was used for the whole second floor, one drop. I milled and profiled all the wood myself. I can say the pine in my opinion makes for much nicer flooring. Looks better, less degrade much more stable, tighter knots, fun to work with. Good hemlock is hard to find even here in the land of hemlock where I live. Logs can look great and be loaded with shake. It's no fun to mill and work with either ,,smells like cat pith! It's only attribute is rot resistance and maybe a lower cost. It can have nice looking grain but so does white pine. One of the boards in the picture is 18" wide. The floor has radiant under it and hasn't had any issues through two heating seasons. Have fun with your project!


  

 

shinnlinger

BB,

your floor looks a lot like my floor....

Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

BB

Wow Shinnlinger it sure does! Looks great.. I love the blue stain and color variation you get with Pine.
What sort of finish did you use?

shinnlinger

this one got tung oil and shellack.  Has held up well.
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

shinnlinger

I should mention I painted ring shank nails black and turned up the pressure on my nail gun.  I put air 1+ yo dried boards rough cut on the floor and then sanded them in place after.  Pretty pleased overall
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

BB

I used heritages oil and wax. Expensive but a great product.
Thats a great idea painting ringshanks to save time. I spent quite a bit on wrought heads even after having more than half of them given to me that were reclaimed. Amazing the hundred+ year old ones were identical to the new ones.
Pre drilling was necessary to avoid splitting. I also used a bead of flexible flooring glue on each sleeper as I nailed them. Lots of labor!..and fun.

petefrom bearswamp

My 2c Hemlock no, use pine.
green hemlock is ok to handle splinter wise but heavy.
When dry splinters seem to grow like stones in a field.
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