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Stainless pipe sealant (?)

Started by ElectricAl, June 13, 2004, 06:48:50 PM

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ElectricAl

We need to reseal the piping on our Outdoor Wood Burners.

We used a teflon paste originally and it started leaking in a couple months >:(

Someone told me once that there is a special sealant for stainless ::)

Pipe size is 1.5" and 1"  Nipples, elbows, and Tee's

Most are stainless to stainless, but ball valves are brass and the pumps are cast iron.

Temp range is -50 to +300.


Looking for the Right stuff.

Also, any ideas on how to clean the threads  :-/



Thanks  :)
Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

Danny_S

This is what I use for pipe dope... Click me

They have a application guide there to figure what is best for your situation.
Plasma cutting at Craig Manufacturing

neslrite

      If it were me I would wire brush the threads, use two wraps of teflon tape and then apply a high quality non hardening pipe dope.
 
  Who makes your unit?
We have a HEATMOR and like it.
Kevin
rule#1 nobody ever puts just one nail in a tree  LogRite Tools  www.logrite.com

Gary_C

If you need a good cleaner, go to your nearest farm supply store and go to the dairy cleaners,  Get some Acid Rinse and use it straight out of the jug but do it outside so the fumes don't get you. They usually have two kinds, one for manual cleaning and one for automatic washers. The best is the manual cleaning version and the name I remember is "Stonesol" if they carry that same label. Their cleaners are made specifically for stainless steel and food grade plastics.

If you have galvanic corrosion at the joints, a sealer will not stop that. Get some of those couplers for dissimilar metals like they put on hot water heater connections.

Are you using some water treating chemical in the water tank of the unit or are you using antifreeze? At high temperatures in a closed system, ordinary water will attack the interior of your system. Chlorine in water is hard on stainless steel. Commercial boilers have to use special water treating chemicals to prevent corrosion. Antifreeze contains some inhibitors but they break down in time and need to be replaced.

Gary
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

rebocardo

Well, the threads on pipe are suppose to seal and on stainless steel you use dope so the threads do not gall. Locktite makes a hydraulic pipe sealant called PST (Pipe Sealant with Teflon) #565 that should work well. You can download their catalog (18 mbs) and it contains everything you ever wanted to know about sealants and thead lockers.

Sometimes when you shove a whole bunch of stuff unto the threads you actually prevent an effective seal. Many times tape will not work where #565 will. As a matter of fact, on my brake lock for my truck, #565 was the only thing recommended.

> Someone told me once that there is a special sealant
> for stainless  
 
There are a few, most are to prevent galling, not to seal.

> Also, any ideas on how to clean the threads  

Brake clean is an effective and fast cleaner, though I would wash it off afterwards with soapy water. I would not wire brush fine thread stainless steel fittings because the wire in the brush is likely harder then the fitting, though a nylon brush would be okay.

On fittings that need cleaning, I run a die or tap on the threads. I find this is the best way to clean them.


RSteiner

Locktite makes a special sealant just for stainless steel pipe, I'm sure however the regular PST with teflon will work.  As stated the pipe dope or teflon tape is NOT to form the seal it is to lubricate the threads to prevent galling as they engauge in an interference fit to form a seal.

Randy
Randy

ElectricAl

Danny,

I called the manufacturer you mentioned. They only sell through a distributer ::) I called the closes distributer (250miles) and the sales man did not even know of the product line :-/

There is a couple of Locktite dealers in our town, so I might give them a try.

Rebocardo and R Steiner, Thanks for the info on the galling.

I used Huxley brand pipe dope the first time and that is what failed. I am concerned about being able to get the parts clean.

Gary, I have heard the word "stonesol" in the past. I'll have to do some looking at the farm store.


Neslrite,

Heatmor,   Got two of them  :D

A 200 and a 400  both leak  >:( a bunch >:( >:(

Heatmor said the Huxley junk would work. If I did not have a grand in stainless fittings I'd throw them away and start over :'(
Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

Mark M

Al, are those pressurized systems or open to atmosphere?

ElectricAl

Mark,


2 psi max.  

It's concidered a closed system ::)


You thinking about mixing some chemicals in you laboratory ;)


Had a local suggest  JB Weld :D

Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

Mark M

Hi Al

The only boiler experience I have is with pressurized systems (10-20psi). I know it is hard to control corrosion on systems that admit air. Does this one go to 0 pressure so air can get in?

Are the fittings leaking or is the boiler corroded? If the boiler is corroded what other metals are present in the system?

You shouldn't have a problem with galvanic corrosion with stainless to stainless joints unless they are significantly different in composition. Where I've seen galvanic corrosion is when going from iron to copper without using brass in between.

I might be able to whip up a general purpose pipe-dope/butch-wax/burn-ointment/sandwich spread mixture if you want me to try. :D

ElectricAl

Mark,

The burner is not corroding, but the threads for the fittings ooze green antifreeze :o

We did add an other pump last fall and used brass fittings and standard Teflon tape with 3 wraps and it is not leaking.

Have not started the project yet, hope to get time in a couple of weeks. ::)
Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

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