Advice on basic sawmill purchase

[brianb88]

If nothing else all of your replies have been helpful to me.  I am still looking, saving, learning and I can hardly wait for the day to buy my own mill.  I travel a fair distance with my work (lots of rural areas) and lately it seems that I see a sawmill every few miles.    It is hard not to stop and visit when I see them.

[5quarter]

Since he's been gone a few days, I'm guessing he went to Hardees. :D :D

[marcusthgault]

The burgerdog's question has been well beneficial to me as well.
Thank you all.
PS
Now gotta re-visit Turners hyd mill spec, which I had discounted on account of the "odd-ball" tyre's for  band-wheel's system.
sigh!

[bandmiller2]

With bandmills you pretty much get what you pay for, if you luck out with a good used one you can "marry up". If your sure you will only be dubbing around for yourself almost any manual mill will work. If you think you may turn a buck with the mill invest in hydraulics. A name brand like WM is worth more because of its engineering and good resale value. Frank C.

[marcusthgault]

I can catogorically (and ruefully ;D perhaps) state that I have spent more research time and due-diligence :P on my ongoing "perfect" sawmill  project.
Than I ever did on any University :-[ coursework projects.
Marcus
Civil Engineer, failed.

[burgertime]

HOLY SMOKES!!!!!!  I'M HERE!!!!!!!!

Wow, before I even begin to read this responses, I want to thank everyone for their reply.  I got to the response about me getting a burger and I decided, before I read anything else...  I gotta let these folks know I'm alive!

This is undoubtedly the most active forum I have ever been a member of and I'm a member of a lot of forums   I've never seen this many replies in such a short time. 

I was in our Northern Neck, VA shop.  We have satellite internet there which, if any of your poor souls have to deal with that, you know how awful it is so I generally try to stay off the internet to avoid frustration.  Geez, we've barely got cell service there.

Ok, now that I'm back to my Maryland shop (which has actual high speed internet) I shall take a moment this evening to read and take in all of this advice and then be back!

Oh, and "burgertime" is the title of a video game I used to play on intellivision when I was a kid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7Pijj7Ty9E

Talk soon!  And thanks for being so attentive!  lord knows I haven't been!

-Mike

[redbeard]

Welcome back and welcome to the Forestry forum Burger time. If you have food in your name everyone pays more attention to you.

[Magicman]

HOLY SMOKES!!!!!!  I'M HERE!!!!!!!! 

:D  That should teach you not to build a fire and then leave it unattended.   ;D  You will always get many honest and helpful answers/opinions here.  Not all will agree, but all are based on experience and have merit. 

Actually you can listen and pay attention to all but one person here.  His advice, you should avoid at all cost.   ;D   :D :D  Welcome back.   8)

[Ga Mtn Man]

Actually you can listen and pay attention to all but one person here.  His advice, you should avoid at all cost.   ;D   :D :D  Welcome back.   8)

Magicman = .  ;D 

[drobertson]

Does anyone know of an independent, side by side comparison of all, or most of all the manual mills that produced?    david

[redbeard]

Sawmill & Woodlot Magazine has some good comparison issues. You can download back issues.

[shinnlinger]

If you did a side by side, what would you compare? Cost, Engines, throat capacity, length of log, clamps, back stops, ease of use,  extras?   

I have seen the woodlot shootouts but seem to recall it talked about BDFT per hour, which has so many variables beyond the mill itself I don't know how helpful that info would be, especially with a manual mill.  I mean a pile of 16ft, 20"DBH straight logs on a deck with a helper and tractor with forks and a bunch of room to work is going to yield much more than wimpy, crooked trees stacked on a muddy sidehill you get to peavy on the mill yourself.

MY advice would be to consider your personal health and physical abilities, access to cheap to free quality logs, and how your going to move and store the logs, boards, slabs etc before you get into the mill itself.  My feeling is  mill preference is kind of like the  Ford Chevy thing. You will probably learn to like whatever mill you have and make good lumber with it if you can get good trees.

Dave

[Magicman]

The best and really only way to know is to put your hands on different brands and types.  There are many here who will welcome a visit.  Especially if you bring burgers 'cause we like food.

[burgertime]

I went for a woodland mills saw.
its half the price of a LT15
welcome and goodluck.

What model?  no complaints?

[burgertime]

We will be cutting mostly pine.  There are about 1000 pine trees on my father-in-laws property.  Purely recreational so we can build things without worrying about the cost of lumber - have you seen what Home Depot or Lowes charges for a 1x12x12 pine board?

We figure, this beast is going to be in one place all the time.  We have no use for mobility.  It will be under a roof, just outside the shop.  We figure we will fell a tree, trim it into 12' sections or similar and haul it up to the mill using a jeep.  From there, we'll get the log onto the track using various block/tackle pulley systems.

If I am over-glorifying this and not thinking of everything due to never having had a mill, SPEAK UP!!!!!

[two-legged-sawmill]

If you did a side by side, what would you compare? Cost, Engines, throat capacity, length of log, clamps, back stops, ease of use,  extras?   

I have seen the woodlot shootouts but seem to recall it talked about BDFT per hour, which has so many variables beyond the mill itself I don't know how helpful that info would be, especially with a manual mill.  I mean a pile of 16ft, 20"DBH straight logs on a deck with a helper and tractor with forks and a bunch of room to work is going to yield much more than wimpy, crooked trees stacked on a muddy sidehill you get to peavy on the mill yourself.

MY advice would be to consider your personal health and physical abilities, access to cheap to free quality logs, and how your going to move and store the logs, boards, slabs etc before you get into the mill itself.  My feeling is  mill preference is kind of like the  Ford Chevy thing. You will probably learn to like whatever mill you have and make good lumber with it if you can get good trees.
The above post is one of the best I have read for a wantabe, novice or beginer,as an old timer I rate it as A-Plus, complete coverage! Dan sr
Thank Shinnlinger

[burgertime]

Watched a video on Norwood's site.  The LM29 seems like very worthy machine. 

[Bandmill Bandit]

My vote would go to the Woodmizer LT 15 with power feed, 1st choice and 2 nd  would be Norwood Lumbermate LM29. Both are solid mills with excellent dealer support net works and have a very good resale value. There are quite few other mill that will do the job for you but the service networks are not  as well established. Access to parts and supplies is an important consideration IMHO.

Good luck in your search.

[shinnlinger]

If acess  to parts is your  #1priority then a Turner is what you want as all the parts are available at your local auto parts store.   Good basic mill as well. 

[Planman1954]

When I read your initial post, it sounded exactly like ME before I bought a sawmill. My friend had a Lumbermate 2000, and that is what I bought. I found a used one and paid around $6500 for it (I think.) It had a 23hp Briggs and Stratton, and an electric start. If you can find one with those 2 features used, BUY IT. It is a great manual mill, and the bed is HEAVY DUTY. I had slammed some BIG logs on it, and it doesn't flintch. That's my 2 cents! 

[thecfarm]

I have a mamaul mill and the only thing I needed to buy for it,I think I had it for 10 years,is one guide wheel. Not much to go wrong with those manual mills.

[clww]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, burgertime.
Where are you located on the Northern Neck? I have several relatives there about.

[Nomad]

When I read your initial post, it sounded exactly like ME before I bought a sawmill. My friend had a Lumbermate 2000, and that is what I bought. I found a used one and paid around $6500 for it (I think.) It had a 23hp Briggs and Stratton, and an electric start. If you can find one with those 2 features used, BUY IT. It is a great manual mill, and the bed is HEAVY DUTY. I had slammed some BIG logs on it, and it doesn't flintch. That's my 2 cents! 

     That's exactly the mill I started out with.  He's right!

[burgertime]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, burgertime.
Where are you located on the Northern Neck? I have several relatives there about.

about 15 miles south of Kilmarnock.

[clww]

Middlesex or Lancaster?