Advice on basic sawmill purchase

[burgertime]

I'm looking to purchase a sawmill for my shop.  The following describes my sawmill intentions:

-not milling logs for others
-not a milling business
-mill logs harvested from my own woods
-max diameter logs 24" (and that would be huge)
-mostly pine and poplar

Basically, I'm a woodworker and I love building things.  I want to saw my own boards so I don't have to get bent over by the box stores.  I don't need any fancy hydraulics or automation - I'm more than capable of doing most stuff myself.  I don't plan on milling up the whole forest but every couple of months, I plan on milling several hundred board feet.  I don't really want to go overboard and buy something way more than I need, but at the same time, I don't want something really wimpy that is going  to bog down and strain to cut.

I don't know much about brands.  I've seen some woodmizer stuff and some cooks stuff.  Just looking for some non-biased and experienced opinions here on this board.  Price range?  I'd say anything south of $7,000 would be ok.

Thanks!!!

[Dave Shepard]

Welcome to the Forum! There are quite a few great mills in that price range. All the mill manufacturers to the left have something that would work. I know Wood-Mizer, so I would say an LT15 would be a good mill for what you want to do. It will handle logs that size, provided you are up to doing your part of turning them. The LT10 may be a little small, I don't know a lot about them. Can you run a 10 hp electric motor? If you aren't moving around, that might be a nice option, especially if you aren't running every day. Gasoline engines can be a pain to keep running with today's gasoline if they sit. Others will be along to tell you about their experience with the offerings from the other manufacturers.

[YellowHammer]

+1 for WM LT15.   
It will do the job
YH

[muck]

I went for a woodland mills saw.
its half the price of a LT15
welcome and goodluck.

[drobertson]

e-z boardwalk mills are also worth looking at. 

[Ga Mtn Man]

One of the nice things about looking for a manual mill in that price range is that there are quite a few really good choices made right here in the USA.  In addition to those already mentioned, you should take a look at Timberking, Norwood, and Timbery.

[bandmiller2]

Dave, brings up a good point if you possibly can go electric you can put it in a building, no exhaust,  its quieter and handy enough so you will use it more often not to mention very little maintenance. Frank C.

[AdamT]

Another vote for the WM LT15.

[dboyt]

You are definitely on the right track, and the $7k budget will get you a pretty nice mill!  I'd consider minimum 10 hp gas or 7.5 hp electric.  I bet if you tell us where you are, there will be Forum members who will give you a demonstration on their mill.  I do a lot of milling for woodworkers, and really like the clamping system on my Norwood.  It does a great job holding down odball-sizes and shapes, such as crotches, crooks, and large diameter, short length pieces.  I'm putting the best pieces aside for myself, and more than paid for the mill by selling the more boring pieces (like clear, straight-grain walnut) to woodworkers.


  

 

[Magicman]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, burgertime.  Adding your location to your profile will help in locating sawyers who might be close to you.  You could always make a visit and do a hands on.

There are a couple of sawmill for sale in the For Sale board below.

[pineywoods]

Don't overlook used manual mills. It is quite common to buy a small manual mill and then trade up for something larger. Most of the mill manufactures will take trade ins and resell them at very competitive prices. Other than the motor, which normally is good for 4000-5000 hours, there's not much to wear out.

[MattJ]

I bought mine for exactly the same reasons as you.  No interest in selling lumber, just wanted lumber for my own projects and hated seeing beautiful trees in the neighborhood turned into chips or firewood.  I bought the HFE-21 from Hudson and have liked it a lot.  I have made some mods to it because I'm an engineer and can't stop taking things apart but I love it.  One big item for me was I wanted to be able to move the sawhead myself and lift it off if needed with my small tractor.  The HFE was the only one light enough to do this that was still well made and could handle the size trees you describe.  Here's my thread on the mill.  https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,66815.msg999765.html#msg999765

[Sawyer697]

If you buy a manual mill and put it inside a building, think about putting an Electric hoist over head, to help with moving the logs, and turning the bigger ones. You will find many uses for it. I Got a WM Hyd. because I did not want to mess up me body turning logs. Love it!

[thecfarm]

burgertime,welcome to the forum. I bought a manual mill for kinda the same reason. I wanted out buildings,I'm not a woodworker. You might have to make a solar kiln to dry your lumber too.
How are you getting the logs out of the woods? If a woodworker,probably don't need many 16 foot boards.
Electric is not a bad way to go either. I might of done that with mine. But the sawmill came before I joined the Foresty Forum.

[NMFP]

What type of quantity are you talking about having milled?  The reason i ask is depending on the quantity, you might be better off collecting your logs and having someone come and saw them from time to time.  You pay for what they produce and you dont have to maintain the mill, store it nor spend your time sawing with it.  I know you might want to saw but I strictly look at things anymore from the financial end.  if it doesnt make a good use of my money, why own it just to say i owne it.

Just my 2 cents worth/  Something to consider.

[rimshot]

I think the WoodMizer LT10 is the mill for you.  Get the 10 h.p Briggs as opposed to the lighter Kohler 7 h.P.  tHIS unit is plenty for the $4000.WM asks for the little mill.

rim

[21incher]

Welcome to the forum. I also had similar needs to you and purchased a Hudson HFE-21. Gets the job done for under 3k. I have cut 24 inch walnut with a little help from a chainsaw. Looked at the Woodmizer but could not justify the extra 1k for my needs.

[shinnlinger]

One thing I don't see mentioned is how your getting your trees to the mill and how your getting your boards and slabs away from the mill.   Do you have an FEL tractor or other peice of equipment?

[reswire]

My vote would be for the Timberking 1200.  I own a 1600, but was really impressed with the 1200 when I saw it in person.  The deck is a key feature that you can count on, very sturdy, and the mill head is a beast for a mill in it's class.  Just my two cents.

[Jimmy Mc]

Don't forget to look at the Harbor freight mill. It is a nice mill for what you want and the price is way south of 7K. I have only cut a few hundred feet of lumber with mine so far, but it does a great job. I have cut Ash, Poplar, Elm, Oak, and Gum, with no problems. Poplar cuts like butter, as does Pine. The money you save will buy you all the blades you will need for at least a year, pay for your gas to run it, and sawing your own lumber is fun.

[WDH]

There are a couple of used manual mills on the For Sale Board.

The LT15 is a very fine mill, very strongly built, and will saw up to a 27" diameter log.  The re-sale value is very good.

Personally, I would not go below 15 HP on a sawmill if you are serious about sawing. 

[Magicman]

I guess that the OP (burgertime) went out for a burger and has not come back yet.

[Ga Mtn Man]

So it would seem.  He was on for less than two hours when he started this thread and never came back.  Still, lots of good advice here to be used by someone I'm sure.

[Magicman]

Maybe he also got fries.   ;D

[fat olde elf]

Dern ! DanG!  Wish he would have stayed to read my suggesition......Cook's MP 32....

[brianb88]

If nothing else all of your replies have been helpful to me.  I am still looking, saving, learning and I can hardly wait for the day to buy my own mill.  I travel a fair distance with my work (lots of rural areas) and lately it seems that I see a sawmill every few miles.    It is hard not to stop and visit when I see them.

[5quarter]

Since he's been gone a few days, I'm guessing he went to Hardees. :D :D

[marcusthgault]

The burgerdog's question has been well beneficial to me as well.
Thank you all.
PS
Now gotta re-visit Turners hyd mill spec, which I had discounted on account of the "odd-ball" tyre's for  band-wheel's system.
sigh!

[bandmiller2]

With bandmills you pretty much get what you pay for, if you luck out with a good used one you can "marry up". If your sure you will only be dubbing around for yourself almost any manual mill will work. If you think you may turn a buck with the mill invest in hydraulics. A name brand like WM is worth more because of its engineering and good resale value. Frank C.

[marcusthgault]

I can catogorically (and ruefully ;D perhaps) state that I have spent more research time and due-diligence :P on my ongoing "perfect" sawmill  project.
Than I ever did on any University :-[ coursework projects.
Marcus
Civil Engineer, failed.

[burgertime]

HOLY SMOKES!!!!!!  I'M HERE!!!!!!!!

Wow, before I even begin to read this responses, I want to thank everyone for their reply.  I got to the response about me getting a burger and I decided, before I read anything else...  I gotta let these folks know I'm alive!

This is undoubtedly the most active forum I have ever been a member of and I'm a member of a lot of forums   I've never seen this many replies in such a short time. 

I was in our Northern Neck, VA shop.  We have satellite internet there which, if any of your poor souls have to deal with that, you know how awful it is so I generally try to stay off the internet to avoid frustration.  Geez, we've barely got cell service there.

Ok, now that I'm back to my Maryland shop (which has actual high speed internet) I shall take a moment this evening to read and take in all of this advice and then be back!

Oh, and "burgertime" is the title of a video game I used to play on intellivision when I was a kid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7Pijj7Ty9E

Talk soon!  And thanks for being so attentive!  lord knows I haven't been!

-Mike

[redbeard]

Welcome back and welcome to the Forestry forum Burger time. If you have food in your name everyone pays more attention to you.

[Magicman]

HOLY SMOKES!!!!!!  I'M HERE!!!!!!!! 

:D  That should teach you not to build a fire and then leave it unattended.   ;D  You will always get many honest and helpful answers/opinions here.  Not all will agree, but all are based on experience and have merit. 

Actually you can listen and pay attention to all but one person here.  His advice, you should avoid at all cost.   ;D   :D :D  Welcome back.   8)

[Ga Mtn Man]

Actually you can listen and pay attention to all but one person here.  His advice, you should avoid at all cost.   ;D   :D :D  Welcome back.   8)

Magicman = .  ;D 

[drobertson]

Does anyone know of an independent, side by side comparison of all, or most of all the manual mills that produced?    david

[redbeard]

Sawmill & Woodlot Magazine has some good comparison issues. You can download back issues.

[shinnlinger]

If you did a side by side, what would you compare? Cost, Engines, throat capacity, length of log, clamps, back stops, ease of use,  extras?   

I have seen the woodlot shootouts but seem to recall it talked about BDFT per hour, which has so many variables beyond the mill itself I don't know how helpful that info would be, especially with a manual mill.  I mean a pile of 16ft, 20"DBH straight logs on a deck with a helper and tractor with forks and a bunch of room to work is going to yield much more than wimpy, crooked trees stacked on a muddy sidehill you get to peavy on the mill yourself.

MY advice would be to consider your personal health and physical abilities, access to cheap to free quality logs, and how your going to move and store the logs, boards, slabs etc before you get into the mill itself.  My feeling is  mill preference is kind of like the  Ford Chevy thing. You will probably learn to like whatever mill you have and make good lumber with it if you can get good trees.

Dave

[Magicman]

The best and really only way to know is to put your hands on different brands and types.  There are many here who will welcome a visit.  Especially if you bring burgers 'cause we like food.

[burgertime]

I went for a woodland mills saw.
its half the price of a LT15
welcome and goodluck.

What model?  no complaints?

[burgertime]

We will be cutting mostly pine.  There are about 1000 pine trees on my father-in-laws property.  Purely recreational so we can build things without worrying about the cost of lumber - have you seen what Home Depot or Lowes charges for a 1x12x12 pine board?

We figure, this beast is going to be in one place all the time.  We have no use for mobility.  It will be under a roof, just outside the shop.  We figure we will fell a tree, trim it into 12' sections or similar and haul it up to the mill using a jeep.  From there, we'll get the log onto the track using various block/tackle pulley systems.

If I am over-glorifying this and not thinking of everything due to never having had a mill, SPEAK UP!!!!!

[two-legged-sawmill]

If you did a side by side, what would you compare? Cost, Engines, throat capacity, length of log, clamps, back stops, ease of use,  extras?   

I have seen the woodlot shootouts but seem to recall it talked about BDFT per hour, which has so many variables beyond the mill itself I don't know how helpful that info would be, especially with a manual mill.  I mean a pile of 16ft, 20"DBH straight logs on a deck with a helper and tractor with forks and a bunch of room to work is going to yield much more than wimpy, crooked trees stacked on a muddy sidehill you get to peavy on the mill yourself.

MY advice would be to consider your personal health and physical abilities, access to cheap to free quality logs, and how your going to move and store the logs, boards, slabs etc before you get into the mill itself.  My feeling is  mill preference is kind of like the  Ford Chevy thing. You will probably learn to like whatever mill you have and make good lumber with it if you can get good trees.
The above post is one of the best I have read for a wantabe, novice or beginer,as an old timer I rate it as A-Plus, complete coverage! Dan sr
Thank Shinnlinger

[burgertime]

Watched a video on Norwood's site.  The LM29 seems like very worthy machine. 

[Bandmill Bandit]

My vote would go to the Woodmizer LT 15 with power feed, 1st choice and 2 nd  would be Norwood Lumbermate LM29. Both are solid mills with excellent dealer support net works and have a very good resale value. There are quite few other mill that will do the job for you but the service networks are not  as well established. Access to parts and supplies is an important consideration IMHO.

Good luck in your search.

[shinnlinger]

If acess  to parts is your  #1priority then a Turner is what you want as all the parts are available at your local auto parts store.   Good basic mill as well. 

[Planman1954]

When I read your initial post, it sounded exactly like ME before I bought a sawmill. My friend had a Lumbermate 2000, and that is what I bought. I found a used one and paid around $6500 for it (I think.) It had a 23hp Briggs and Stratton, and an electric start. If you can find one with those 2 features used, BUY IT. It is a great manual mill, and the bed is HEAVY DUTY. I had slammed some BIG logs on it, and it doesn't flintch. That's my 2 cents! 

[thecfarm]

I have a mamaul mill and the only thing I needed to buy for it,I think I had it for 10 years,is one guide wheel. Not much to go wrong with those manual mills.

[clww]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, burgertime.
Where are you located on the Northern Neck? I have several relatives there about.

[Nomad]

When I read your initial post, it sounded exactly like ME before I bought a sawmill. My friend had a Lumbermate 2000, and that is what I bought. I found a used one and paid around $6500 for it (I think.) It had a 23hp Briggs and Stratton, and an electric start. If you can find one with those 2 features used, BUY IT. It is a great manual mill, and the bed is HEAVY DUTY. I had slammed some BIG logs on it, and it doesn't flintch. That's my 2 cents! 

     That's exactly the mill I started out with.  He's right!

[burgertime]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, burgertime.
Where are you located on the Northern Neck? I have several relatives there about.

about 15 miles south of Kilmarnock.

[clww]

Middlesex or Lancaster?

[m wood]

 Welcome burgertime (I'm late for that).  I believe that Woodland Mills still offer only the one model.  Check to the left and you can find their video thru the link.  I bought a used Norwood (mark 4) very comprable to the LM29.  Planman said it, the deck is strong and the build is simple, I love mine.  MY Honda 13hp is pull start but NEVER fails to crank over.  I was steering toward the Norwood for some unknown reason all along while I was researching, maybe cuz their US headquarters is 30 minutes away in Buffalo...IDK...and then I bought used anyway :.

keep looking and keep asking those questions!  As you are now aware, this is a friendly place that loves to share
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