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Thinking about buying a central boiler e classic 1400 or a cl5036

Started by Kasey1123, February 08, 2014, 07:26:21 PM

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Kasey1123

Hi everyone I'm new to this site and new to home ownership. I live in ohio and have a 2000sg ft home on a slab. After high propane bills I'm thinking about getting an central boiler unit but not sure which one to get. I would like people's opinions on them if they have them what they like and dislike about their unit. The e1400 is energy efficient does it burn less wood than the 5036. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Ohiowood

I have the E1400, love it!

Had it for 3 years now and have no complaints, never had any other ones.

Live in Ohio also, 2600 sq ft with basement and heats my hot water.

Kasey1123

About how many cords do you burn a winter. Is there a lot of maintenance to them and is the much smoke that comes out of the chimney.

doctorb

Before you select a unit, check your local regulations about OWB ownership.  They may determine which one of the two you can install where you live.  Secondly, how close are your neighbors?  You need space between you and them to own any of these OWB's, and you'll need space to store/season wood.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Kasey1123

Where do you find out how many feet you need to be between your neighbor and you owb. I just thought the chimney needed to be above their roof line. Also where do you check for regulations of owb ownership. I live in ohio, I've been looking online for this info havnt had any luck yet

Jack72

Quote from: doctorb on February 08, 2014, 10:30:51 PM
Before you select a unit, check your local regulations about OWB ownership.  They may determine which one of the two you can install where you live.  Secondly, how close are your neighbors?  You need space between you and them to own any of these OWB's, and you'll need space to store/season wood.

Welcome

The doctor is right my stack is 20 ft in the air because of a neighbor she hasn't complained since but I make sure I snowblow her drive every time it snows too squeaky wheel gets greased (prevailing winds out of west right at her house).
it will smoke when it first starts depending on your wood quality/dryness. The drier it is the quicker the smoke clears and starts gassifying.   This may not make sense to you but you need seasoned wood.,for  better performance
you'll see if you end up with one.

I don't want to speak for Ohio and Roger but for a little more money you can get a 1450 with removable corners the 1400 and 1450 are different compared to the way the exchanger tubes are setup and designed as far as cleaning goes.     I've heard Roger complain about creosote in the corners the 1450 has remove able corners for cleaning easier.   Don't get me wrong the 1400 is a good stove been around a lot longer than the 1450 maybe Roger or Dan will chime in on that.


As I've said before it's a commitment you can't take  a year off on cutting firewood and expect to stay ahead for seasoned wood   I like to be two years ahead but this year I've burned more than I would like with the crazy low temps

Any more questions PM me or email I could talk to you on phone and give you my opinions if you would like


By the way I'm 400 ft from my neighbor to the east of me   She has a high efficient furnace so her intake is on the side of her house so if the air is foggy and rainy I've noticed the smoke will kind of hang lower on those days and I know that's when she smells it rather than windy days


Jack

13 Chevy Duramax
Stihl 046 036 009
Northern 25 Ton Splitter

Holmes

 Try outdoor wood boiler Federal regulations for laws.  If your state does not have OWB laws the federal laws apply
Think like a farmer.

Roger2561

Kasey1123 - Welcome to the forum.  You'll find a lot of great people with a lot knowledge to share.

Doctorb is correct.  Make sure you check with your local zone enforcement officer regarding an EPA phase I or phase II compliant unit.  My state (NH) requires that we only use EPA phase II compliant units, like the e-classic 1400.  Your zone enforcement officer should be able to tell you where to find that information regarding property line set back and chimney height.

As Jack said, I own an E-classic 1400.  This is my 3rd season heating with it.  I'm heating 3000sqft of an 1840's, 9 room farmhouse (spent bucks on insulation) and my domestic hot water (DHW).  The past 2 seasons I used approximately 6 cord each season.  I only burn hardwood; maple, rock maple, oak, some birch, beech, ash, etc.. This year I may burn 7 cord due to the very cold winter.  Even with minus 25 degree temps coupled with a 20 to 30 mile an hour wind, it kept my home cozy warm at 70 degrees (I don't like any warmer than that, it's too uncomfortable).  Never did the oil burner run.  NOT hearing the oil burner run is music to my ears.   

As for maintenance, I used to clean mine every week, which meant I would remove the red hot coals to a metal bucket (reuse to rekindle the fire), run stiff wire through the air holes at the far end of the firebox and those on both sides.  I would then empty the reaction chamber of ash build up.  This entire project takes approx. 20 to 30 minutes.  I would then reverse the procedure to rekindle the fire.  This year I decided to clean it every other week.  I haven't seen a noticeable difference in creosote buildup compared to a weekly cleaning.  The downside to the e1400 is that it doesn't have the removable corner panels like the e1450.  Those corners on the e1400 are pain to clear of creosote buildup.  I checked with my CB rep to see if they offer a retro kit for the corners.  They don't.  Bummer.  The e1400 is a very good unit.  I'm not sorry I bought mine.  But, if they had offered the e1450 when I purchased mine, I would have purchased it instead of the e1400 primarily due to the removal corner panels. 

I hope this helps you in the decision making process.  Regardless of what you buy, you'll wonder why you waited so long to do so.  I know I did.  Good luck!  Roger
Roger

doctorb

Kasey

here's an Ohio thread I found on OWB's.  I noted that there are no listed laws for OWB's in Ohio (by the date of this web publication).  There's a list of communities that have adopted some form of regulation, however.  check it out....

http://www.theoec.org/publications/fact-sheet-outdoor-wood-fired-boilers
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Kasey1123

Thanks for all the info. Right now I'm thinking about putting a geothermal unit in. If I get the 1400 it's probably going to be around 11,000-12,000 for the unit and parts. I'm going to have someone come out abd give me a qoute. But they said it would be around 15,000-16,000 after tax credits and stuff. I was thinking spend a little extra money then I wouldnt have to worry about cutting wood and I would be able to heat and cool my house with the Geo.

Jack72

Quote from: Kasey1123 on February 12, 2014, 11:22:49 AM
Thanks for all the info. Right now I'm thinking about putting a geothermal unit in. If I get the 1400 it's probably going to be around 11,000-12,000 for the unit and parts. I'm going to have someone come out abd give me a qoute. But they said it would be around 15,000-16,000 after tax credits and stuff. I was thinking spend a little extra money then I wouldnt have to worry about cutting wood and I would be able to heat and cool my house with the Geo.

Well that's no fun.     What are you going to do with all the extra time your going to have now   Good luck make sure you have a good recommended contractor/ warranty.   I've heard some bad stories on some installs. Just like anything
13 Chevy Duramax
Stihl 046 036 009
Northern 25 Ton Splitter

doctorb

I had the same dilemma.  I just don't like forced air heat.  Too dry for my taste, even with humidifiers.  Geothermal is not hot enough for hot water baseboard/ radiator heat and can only "assist" DHW.  I think geothermal is OK for radiant heat as the temps required for that are lower than hot water baseboard.  Very efficient for cooling.  There are always trade offs.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

thecfarm

doctorb, is right about trade off. I had baseboard heat with a indoor wood boiler in my other house. Nice heat,but now I have forced hot air. If I want the temp up,I can get it to rise in just a little while. Baseboard seems to take a long time. Need both to have the best of both worlds.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Timberjack_395XP

How much can you heat with a e-classic? I am going build a new Morton building and 5000+/- sq ft log home and I was wanting to heat it, the Morton floor and possibly my concrete drive. I know a guy who did his drive works well and never uses salt or scrapes driveway and shuts it off at the manifold each spring so he doesn't heat it. anyone who has experience with any of this your expertise would be greatly appreciated!

thecfarm

You did not say how big of a house that guy was heating. I would THINK it would be a BIG e classic. That would take some BTUs to do that.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Timberjack_395XP

he has around 3500sq ft house. I was just curious how much drive I could heat or if its too much water to move.

thecfarm

I meant to really say,I think YOU would need a big one to heat all that you want to heat.
And how big is your driveway. I have a 500 foot one. That would take a BIG one.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Timberjack_395XP

it will be about 600ft im putting it in the floors of the house too. I wished I joined the forum a long time ago read & learned many things/ideas on but just never joined but better late than never!

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