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Started by sstuartjones, February 05, 2014, 12:24:46 AM

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sstuartjones

I just purchased a Timberking 1600 and am looking into all the "accessories" that go along with sawmilling and 30 acres...

Looking for understanding in the chainsaw arena and just read a post about somebody's saw they just picked up all black and cleaning it ... all Greek to me and sounds like a bunch of motor-heads talking ford vs chevy, Mustang vs Camaro (sp), so I am realizing just how far out of my comfort zone I have jumped by buying a sawmill and am excited about Not knowing ANYTHING i should to have done so.. 

So that being said, I have a "baby" electric chain saw used for loping off limbs that fell in the last storm and now need to upgrade to a "big boy saw" that can actually cut down a tree, or section a full size tree for the sawmill.

so where should I start looking - size of chain saw, new vs used, length of bar... sawmill can take up to a 36" dia log x 20' - as always price is a deciding factor.
TimberKing 1600, Stihl 311, 71 Mach-1(just for fun)

CTYank

You'll always need at least one backup saw, for when the first gets pinched. It will eventually, no matter how many wedges you use. Besides, a saw capable of felling/bucking the big stuff will get to be a real PITA for limbing. On starting your learning curve, you'll probably shorten the life-span of your first saw or two- consider Homey rentals (64 cc Dolmar).
First purchase should be full PPE (personal protective equipment)- chaps, combo helmet (w/muffs, screen). Good boots are important.
Prepare to spend some time learning how to properly sharpen saw chain- a real game-changer.
Once you're comfortable using a saw safely, go for a couple of pro models- good resale. You'll find plenty of religious warfare on what brands/models to buy, and how important the dealer is. (NOT, IMHO) Just be wary of folks who want to separate you from wads of cash.
Hand tools you'll need: wedges, tape, axe, hookaroon, cant hook, couple canteens.
If you're going to handle 3' x 20' logs, you'll need serious equipment.
Time for some local adult-ed, maybe even USFS training.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

Andyshine77

Yank provided some solid advice. Going out and felling a 36" without the proper training and experience, is a recipe for disaster. At a minim Buy a few felling books, like To Fell A Tree. http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestry-Woodcutting/Accessories-Media/Media/To-Fell-a-Tree-by-Jeff-Jepson---Second-Edition.axd

When it comes to buying a used chainsaw. Ask yourself a question. Do I know how to repair and or rebuild chainsaws? If no you probably want something new, with good dealer support.

I myself think any self respecting woodsman should have at lest two nice saws, a good 50cc saw and a larger 70cc or greater. I like an 18" bar and chain on my 50cc saws. On 70cc saws you can run up to about a 28" bar and chain, maybe longer if you're cutting soft wood. All of the top brands. Stihl, Husqvarna, Dolmar and Echo will get the gob done. Keep your chains sharp, the saw well lubricated and properly maintained. This will save you time, money and aggravation.       
Andre.

Rockn H

If you're new to saws, one important thing to learn is how to sharpen the chain.   I think Stihl offers some of the simplest literature on sharpening.  You don't need a lot of guides or electric sharpeners either, just get the right size file and for comfort a handle to go on the end. ;)

Edit:  Don't feel too overwhelmed by all the information on this board.... I've been around saws all my life and most of these guys can get over my head really quick LOL

thecfarm

sstuartjones,welcome to the forum.
Moving a 3 foot log takes some power. Than it's in the woods,so it's that much harder to do. Even a log 8 feet long takes power. I do alot with a 40hp tractor with a 3 pt winch.
I would find a dealer, and go in and talk to them, a good dealer should be able to help you with what you want. Don't like them,go on to another one.
You will need a Logrite cant dog or peavey. Sponsor on the left. There is a section that explains the difference between a cant dog and peavey.
I would keep away from them big ones for a while. Cut the small ones,understand what you are doing right and wrong. Those big 3 footers need room to come down anyways. My Father and me would cut a "road" for the big ones to fall into. No use in destorying alot of trees to get one big tree. You need to take care of your forest.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

sstuartjones

thanks for all the good tidbits... I am not ready to go about felling trees, mainly at this time it's about making sure the limbs are off the logs I'll be milling on the sawmill (timberking 1600). but eventually I will be doing my OWN THING and will take dodwn a few live ones.

got it safety first@!@

thnaks again and I am excitedly learning all i can, and the timberframe section is fascinating to me as well for that is where my building desires lie (lay) <are>.
TimberKing 1600, Stihl 311, 71 Mach-1(just for fun)

Ward Barnes

Howdy:

All the safety equipment listed cost less then one trip to the emergency room.

Get a good set of safety equipment.  Chainsaw chaps or pants from $40.00 and up.  4 ply to 8 ply are available.  The more the plys the better.

A good chainsaw helmet is next.  $50.00 and up.  Not only will the ear protectors help save your hearing they will help save your ears from scratches from limbs.  The hardhat part should be adjustable for proper fit.  The hardhat will help protect your head from falling branches that seem to come out from nowhere.  Make sure the hardhat has a screen attached to deflect small chips or branches away from your face and eyes.  Many folks also wear goggles in addition to the screen shield.

A good, proper fitting, steel/safety toe boot is next.  I prefer a slip on style because boots with laces often come with lace hooks toward the top of the boot which can catch on your pants or get tangled in a vine.

Tough gloves are also needed.  Splinters are a pain anytime.  Splinters imbedded in your hand 30 miles out in the woods can stop your day's work and cause a nasty injury.

All of the above are the minimum that you should purchase.

Put on and adjust your safety equipment EVERY time before you cut.  Safety equipment in the truck is worthless and very difficult to put on after you have an accident.

Work with a trustworthy partner.  I take my wife to the woods/backyard with me as an observer and to call for help if I get hurt.

There are old chainsaw users and bold chainsaw users.  There are no old, bold chainsaw users.

God Bless, Ward and Mary.
7 year old Stihl MS 390.  New Stihl trim saw MS 250.  Kubota BX 2200 tractor.  2005 F150 4X4.
Dull chains cause accidents.  Accidents cause shorter life spans.
You don't sharpen a chain when it gets dull.  You sharpen a chain to keep it from getting dull.

Ianab

Ditto to what everyone else is saying about the safety gear, and learning how to do things right.

Now I'm going to suggest you don't need a huge "Paul Bunyan" size professional chainsaw. If you are only doing this as a hobby, a 50-60cc saw with a 20" bar will take down a 36" tree just fine. Doesn't matter if it takes twice as long, chances are you are only processing a couple of trees a day. 10 mins extra cutting is no big deal.

First saw I bought was a Stihl MS 310. 60 cc, "farm" grade saw. Plenty good enough for a part time hobby logger, firewood cutter etc, and I've taken down 36" trees with it. Some folks will knock them because they are plastic, and a bit heavier, and not as much power as a "Pro" saw. While this is true, the main thing is that it runs, and the chain is sharp. If you have those things, you are in business.

Anyway, I'd rather send you out with a MS310 AND full safety gear, than with a better saw, and skimp on the extras. ;)

Good luck, and don't be afraid to ask questions.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

mikey517

Ditto on all that's been said, especially to PPE.

For me, having a good dealer is important, followed by getting a saw a bit bigger than you think you'll ever need...'cause eventually, you WILL "need" it.!

Just before I turned 60, I needed a chainsaw for a storm cleanup. I had never owned, nor run a chainsaw before. Went to a recommended local dealer who, after I explained the situation, recommended a Husqvarna 240 16" bar. Before I left the store, the saw was started, tuned, and I was given on hands lesson(s) on it's use. Love that little saw, still use it for small stuff.

Then came burning wood for heat, and the logs I was buying really tested the 240, so, thanks to the same dealer, I ended up with a Husky 353 - a pro constructed Husqvarna w/o the XP designation. Thought that would be my last saw purchase.

Then came retirement, and the "gift" of a wood lot with enough downed ash and maple trees to keep me cutting through all of 2014, and...well thanks to my dealer, he found me a 70cc Husky 365 XT, another pro-constructed saw.

Resistance is futile; if you get serious, the 50cc & 70cc plan is the way to go.

Then comes the splitter....and the log jack....and the hookaroon...and the truck & winch...and on and on...

stihltoomany

I have a better idea- just give me the Timberking and you won't have to waste your time buying all that extra stuff.  :D :D




Thats the same mill I'm looking at, keep us posted. :D
Way too many saws, mostly STIHL
Bobcat S650, Bobcat 331 excavator Bobcat A770
and other dirt toys
Looking for hyd bandsaw mill, Timberking used maybe? NOT anymore!
WoodMizer LT40 super

mad murdock

If you are not used to chainsaws and 2 strokes, make sure you get a dedicated fuel can for your saw gas, and only fuel from it.  An expensive noob lesson is putting straight gas in a saw (even happens to seasoned chainsaw users).  You have to premix your 2 stroke oil with your gas, so if you have a dedicated can, then you will help avoid the straight gas mistake, which will cost usually an expensive trip to the saw shop to overcome.  Not wanting to start an "oil war", I am from the old school, though I don't buy the pricey synthetic oils, I run my saw gas 32:1, and have had excellent service from all my saws, never any premature wear, even with extensive use milling with my saws.  a good file guide, to get you in the groove of how to sharpen a chain.  I would reccomend the granberg filing guide.  Baileys (forum sponsor) can set you up with all that you will need to maintain your saw in top form, they also have PPE.  One additional item I would consider is a good axe.  I use mine a lot, and keep it handy while milling.  Sometimes it is quicker to bump a knot or whack a little here or there with the axe than it is by picking up the saw. Just depends on what you are doing.  enjoy the mill, and check out youtube for felling videos, you can learn a lot by watching others before you go out yourself.  A saw is a very useful tool, but can turn into the worst instrument to maime and cause injury or death, if disregarded and/or not respected.  Good luck! and happy sawing!
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

thecfarm

stihltoomany.welcome to the forum. Looking at a sawmill. Good for you. Have logs? What's the plan for the mill?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

WDH

Stuart,

The Stihl Dealer in Warner Robins is very good.  There is also an excellent dealer in Macon. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

sstuartjones

thanks for all the additional input, I am probably going to head up tomorrow and visit the chain saw dealers and see what they all feel like and get the one that "feels right" and has enough Power for where I will be spending MOST of my time. probably a little undersized for the upper extreme, and overkill for home duty but "Just Right" as Gold-e-lox says for the job I am buying it to preform.

I'll let y'all know what I settle on.
TimberKing 1600, Stihl 311, 71 Mach-1(just for fun)

sstuartjones

stihltoomany, you are welcome to bring logs and get a feel for the saw if you are in the neighborhood, but it's a pretty long drive.

and I'll let you all know when the saw gets home and when we open the first log, buy a chain saw and cut the first logs to length ( probably prep staging for the saw ).

we'll make sure and get pics and or video.

Beth my wife tells me that she is available for a 3 day road trip to go and get the saw! sounds like an extra driver so he trip can be nonstop! whoot whoot! anybody else wanna go? no scrap that no more room, laying the back seat down for the non driver to nap and rest up (the cushions off the couch fit perfectly when the back seat is in the down position)

TimberKing 1600, Stihl 311, 71 Mach-1(just for fun)

stihltoomany

Need lumber for a couple buildings. Farmers here tend to push trees up in a pile and burn them. Hope to prevent some of that. May do some custom milling if anyone wants it. Help pay for some of the mill. Hardly any custum mills around any more. Got six walnuts lined up so far. Thanks for the welcome. Love this forum. Where else would a guy who loves to play with wood hangout?
Way too many saws, mostly STIHL
Bobcat S650, Bobcat 331 excavator Bobcat A770
and other dirt toys
Looking for hyd bandsaw mill, Timberking used maybe? NOT anymore!
WoodMizer LT40 super

rbhunter

Thanks Andy for the link to the book. It will be a while before I can take the game of logging and the book looks like something I should get.
"Said the robin to the sparrow, I wonder why it must be, these anxious human beings rush around and worry so?"
"Said the sparrow to the robin, Friend I think it must be, they have no heavenly father, such as cares for you and me."
author unknown. Used to hang above parents fireplace.

Oliver1655

Lots of good comments to think on.  However I had got the feeling OP was wondering what size saw he would need IN the mill.  If you want to be able to mill 36" wide logs, I would get at least an 80 cc saw. 

There is a huge amount of information in the "Sawmills & Milling" section.  Spend time there & see what types of saws & chains they are using on their mils.
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

sstuartjones

went to the local Stihl shop and picked up a MS311 with 20" bar, then went by and squared up the end cuts on a few logs just to get a feel for the saw.
WOW buttery smooth as it went through the beetle kill pine as well as the cherry a little heavier than i was expecting but feels good in the hand. I am sure it will do a great job for what I will need.

thanks for the directions mr D!
TimberKing 1600, Stihl 311, 71 Mach-1(just for fun)

Andyshine77

Quote from: sstuartjones on February 12, 2014, 08:14:03 PM
went to the local Stihl shop and picked up a MS311 with 20" bar, then went by and squared up the end cuts on a few logs just to get a feel for the saw.
WOW buttery smooth as it went through the beetle kill pine as well as the cherry a little heavier than i was expecting but feels good in the hand. I am sure it will do a great job for what I will need.

thanks for the directions mr D!

Well good deal, I'm sure it will treat you well. I did look at the weight, 14.1lbs is quite heavy for 60cc, just keep the chain sharp and take your time. :)
Andre.

Ianab

Keep the chain sharp and oil in it, and it will do just fine.

Maybe not the lightest or most powerful saw you can buy, but they are good reliable saws, and will get the job done.  :)

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

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