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4 beams

Started by peterob, January 31, 2014, 09:45:53 AM

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peterob

i know i kinda asked this before, i need 4 beams an i'm either going to us a 16-18inch  x 20ft  or would it be better to saw 2x16or18 x 20ft an laminate them with plywood i am going to put in corner braces to beef up the openings i just want to know which would work the best  peter

rooster 58

     There are a few ways to accomplish that. More information is needed tho. What is  this for and what kind of structure and is there room above your proposed header?

Magicman

To each his own, but I know what I would do if for no other reason than that I do not have any means of handling such a beam.  I would lay it up one piece at the time.  This is what I have done in the past with beams up to 24' long.  ;D
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peterob
Some data missing on what you want or need to do.
But usually laminated is stronger than solid beam, as the knots and localized steep grain around the knots are distributed around rather than localized (as in solid beam).

But maybe you can tie up some of the loose ends for us.
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Raym

It is common in construction to install a "flinch plate" to increase the span of a beam. It is simply a 3/4" piece of steel that is the same height and length of your beam. It is sandwiched in-between two pieces of lumber and bolted. 
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peterob

Quote from: rooster 58 on January 31, 2014, 10:13:21 AM
     There are a few ways to accomplish that. More information is needed tho. What is  this for and what kind of structure and is there room above your proposed header?
i'm building a 28x 42 building for my mill, an i want 2   18ft doors, an i want to keep the inside as open as possible, i want to build my own rafters to,  to save money

rooster 58

     May I ask how high your main rafter supports will be and how high you want your doors?

drobertson

I'm not sure of your snow load, or the pitch you plan on using, but will offer these pics of my shed.
I have a 20' log deck opening, and my builder used 3, 2x10's treated with one 7/16" osb. I have had several ice, sleet, and snow loads, but nothing like up north, the shed is 30x50, using a 4 pitch. there has been no sagging in over 6 years with this build. here are some pics, hope it helps, putting the numbers to it would be the safe bet, 


  

  

 
david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

hackberry jake

I only have a 16' opening on mine. I used a 6x10x16 scaly bark hickory beam. There was some tension when I cut it so it had a slight bow. I put the bow up thinking over time it would sag to straight... nope three years later, its still bowed up.
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Don_Papenburg

How many rafters are you going to rest on this beam?
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peterob

Quote from: rooster 58 on January 31, 2014, 02:06:08 PM
     May I ask how high your main rafter supports will be and how high you want your doors?
rafter supports 10-12 ft  doors the same

peterob

Quote from: Don_Papenburg on January 31, 2014, 05:05:32 PM
How many rafters are you going to rest on this beam?
i'm going to set rafter 2ft on center i think maybe 30 inches  with steel roof
 

rooster 58

     Hi peterob. There are a couple of things you could do. You said you wanted to use metal roofing, which is a good choice. I would place the rafters on 4' centers, with roof purlins on 24" centers: much like a pole building. And then you can nail or screw your metal to that.
     As for door headers, if you could keep your door height 2' below the main header height, that gives you a few options. First, you could butt your door headers tight up under the rafter headers, and then tie them together with 2x6 or 4x6 blocking, which will beef up both headers.
       Or you could turn both headers into a sort of bar joist system, with bracing at 45* angles and blocking to tie the two headers together. Just sayin'

Gadrock

26 ga metal roofing is quite well at home when being attached every 5 feet...and then with only 3 or 4 srews per line. us ethe rubber sealing type...screwed down on the flats....not the crowns.


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red oaks lumber

if you stretch your truss from 2' on center to 4' on center you'll have to check the truss rating, to see if you can go out to 4'. is building your own trusses really where you want to try saving money?if they fail you dont have much of a building left :)
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peterob

Quote from: red oaks lumber on February 01, 2014, 12:19:15 PM
if you stretch your truss from 2' on center to 4' on center you'll have to check the truss rating, to see if you can go out to 4'. is building your own trusses really where you want to try saving money?if they fail you dont have much of a building left :)
the most i would space my rafter is 3 ft but i think i'm going with 30" an strap every 2ft with 2x4

Ludo

I always laminate my beams.  I cut a cant the size of the beam I want, then I drill hoes through it for the bolts, then I saw it into boards.  I do not have the means to lift a large beam by myself so this works fine.  I have never had a problem.

Magicman

The above plus sandwiching OSB, plywood, or sheet metal is a tried and proven way to increase it's strength.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

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