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MD Question

Started by Steve, June 05, 2004, 11:17:23 PM

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Steve

I need someone to explain to me just how the lumber return mechanism works? For some reason I can't understand what to adjust to get it to work right for me. I am talking about the split wood black that both needs tightened as well as oiled. I have trouble with the return gate not coming full up at the start of the cut.
I don't know whether to oil the shaft more or increase the pressure on the split block?

Anyone understand what I'm trying to say?

Steve

Steve
Hawaiian Hardwoods Direct
www.curlykoa.com

Frank_Pender

I belive tht your problems lies in the length of the cable that is connected to the push arm used push the lumber upon the carrage returning to the operatior.   If I am not mistaken there is a set screw that you losen with an allen wrench to adust the length of the cable.  I will most likely have to refresh my memory tomorrow as I am just getting home from the Senior graduating classes all night party two which I was unable to stay all night.   :'(
Frank Pender

oakiemac

Hey Steve,
I once had the same problem. I solved it by doing what Frank said and adjusting the length of the cable. I believe you will want to shorten it. Do it in small increments and try it out each time.
I had to replace that cable once. The end crimp where it goes into the lumber return came off during a cut and the cable flew into the saw blade. :(  Lets just say the blade won.
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Steve

Thanks guys, I'll have to play with that. Right now I have it tight when the return gate is down. I don't understand what exactly goes on when the split block spins on its shaft- sometimes- I think when you engage the mill forward the blocks roll with the shaft till it hits the stop and then stay there ( and spin on the shaft)  while in forward and then roll back the other way (and drop the return gate)  when in reverse.

Trouble is the shaft slips in the blocks when I first start the cut. If I flip the gate up by hand it will stay up?

I just changed all the belts to get ready for a new job. I'm going to camp out on the next job 'cause it's too far to drive every day.
Steve
Hawaiian Hardwoods Direct
www.curlykoa.com

oakiemac

Too far to drive? I thought you could drive twice around that whole island in an hour!
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Steve

Oakiemac

They don't call it the Big Island for nothing. Takes 2 1/2 hrs just one way. Either way though...
The mill site is up on the side of Mauna Kea about 6,500 ft. elevation. Long, rough, gravel/muddy road.

Steve
Hawaiian Hardwoods Direct
www.curlykoa.com

Frank_Pender

Steve, did you not get a handbook for the mill.   It is all explained in there how to adjust the cable for the lumber return.  If you have a fax number, I can send you a copy of the directions.  Send the fax via private message if you wish.
Frank Pender

sawmill_john

Steve, if you are using the lumber return arm with the extension, you may have to tighten the bolts or get a heavier srping, your extension is an inch longer than most peoples.  Next time you need patrs I'll throw in some heavy springs, the problem is you don't want too much pressure on the block because it can make the final drive slip premature, making the mill stall out in the cut.  If your still having trouble let me know, the other thing if the shaft is pitted, it could be eating away the wooden blocks and not allowing the pressure to be applied to the shaft.

The procedure for adjusting the lumber return block is to position the lumber return block as shown (there is a stop that limits the blocks movement), let the lumber return arm rest in the down position.  Pull the cable tight and lock in in place with the set screw on the collar that is shown in the picture above.  When the mill is engaged into forward the block rotaes in a counter-clockwise direction pulling the cable and lumber return arm up.  When the mill is tripped into reverse the rotation of the shaft is clockwise, so the block should return to the position shown in the picture, allowing the lumber return arm to be lowered.
Now that I've bored the Dan G heck out of every one.  How's every one doing, I've been busy latly and I had some idoit turn in front of me and totaled my suburban a week ago, My wife wouldn't let me saw that weekend, instead I got to help her dig out some lilac "bushes", more like trees, and I thought I was supposed to take it easy, O' well I guess I had to be some where.  
Talk to you guys later.

John

Frank_Pender

At least she is letting you set at the puter for a brief moment or two.   I am glad you did not get hurt.  How is the vehicle?   Do you get to get a new one?  Hope so!  thnk you for coming to the rescue of Steve.  I was about to try and faxt him a picture of the directions for the return adjustment.  I had forgotten that he was using the extension and cutting with the 19" edger blade.  Thank you John.
Frank Pender

sawmill_john

Well Frank, being that my rig wasn't a gem, its "totalled" here is a picture.

It doesn't look all that bad but for an '86 its not worth repairing the frame on the drivers side is rolled under and the tire is sitting against the back of the fender well, I'm going to buy it back and part it out.  Two years ago I spent about $1700.00 on the 700R-4 transmission, hopfully I'll recoupe some money by parting it out.  I was thinking about selling it and getting a PU, now I have to find the right truck.  In the mean time I'm driving a tiny Sidekick (tuna can), it gets me to work and back.  I feel very lucky that I didn't get hurt to bad I'm almost back to normal, my knee is still a little tender but it doesn't hurt to run and jump, only when I bang it into some thing.

Steve

Thanks John, you explained it perfectly. I do have signifigant pitting on that shaft but I hope I don't need to replace it. I'll finddle with it some more.

Glad to see you weren't hurt any worse than you were John...

Steve
Hawaiian Hardwoods Direct
www.curlykoa.com

Frank_Pender

I am glad you did not get hurt any worse too, John.  I'll bet you could put the parts on E-bay or someplace and do really well with the parts.  Make sure the replacement is at least an F350. ;D
Frank Pender

sawmill_john

Steve the material we're using now is stainless so I'll get one out to you next week so let me know if you need any thing esle.
Frank, I can't afford a F350.

john

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