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Blade coatings?

Started by Robert Duval, January 26, 2014, 12:29:04 PM

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Robert Duval

Hey all been a while. We have started sharpening all of our blades in house and it has been going well except for one thing, we are getting a thin buildup of sawdust on the blades casusing some serious drag. Does anyone know what the sharpening shops use to coat the blades?

beenthere

The thin buildup I presume, is when sawing logs... not during the sharpening of the blades in-house.

What are you using for pitch build-up while sawing?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Chuck White

When I get done sharpening my blades, I take a rag with ATF and give the entire blade a good coating before I put them in the box!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Nomad

     What beenthere said; are you using lube while you're cutting?  Whatever the shop puts on the blade won't last very long.  The place I use for my Lucas blades just uses a light coat of machine oil on everything, bands included.  It's only purpose is to prevent rust while the blade is in storage.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

Red Good

Has anyone tried cryogenics for band longevity ?
Stihl 211C saw
Massey 135 deisel tractor with a front loader
Can Am 800 max quad
2001 Chev S10 pick me up
Home made log arch

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Red Good on January 26, 2014, 06:45:57 PM
Has anyone tried cryogenics for band longevity ?

No, but I've tried a metal detector.  ;D
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

bandmiller2

Petroleum applied with a wick, nip the problem before it starts. If you have a buildup remove it wile the band is still on the mill. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

drobertson

A wick of diesel, a flood of coolant, or a knife to knock off the build up before removing the band, whatever is used should be used prior to removing the band if the issue is persistent.  This makes re-grinding much easier. A Brass brush is pretty handy when needed,    david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

backwoods sawyer

I wipe them down with a heavy coat of deisel and oil, let them soak a while, later wipe off with a dry towle, that cleans them up before sharpening.
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

Jemclimber

Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on January 26, 2014, 08:04:27 PM
Quote from: Red Good on January 26, 2014, 06:45:57 PM
Has anyone tried cryogenics for band longevity ?

No, but I've tried a metal detector.  ;D

:D  :D  :D     That really had me laughing!!!    :D  :D  :D
lt15

Robert Duval

Sorry should have been a little more specific. This problem is happening on our gang saw and table saw. Our gangsaw is a woodmaster 718 and can not have water run in it. Our band blades still go to woodmizer to be sharpened.

beenthere

Then sounds like your sharpening technique is causing the cutting pattern (kerf) to be too narrow and sawdust is getting down along the surface of the circular blade.  Possibly may be a result of too many teeth in the blade as well, making very fine sawdust.
Did this happen when the blades were new?

And to be clear, you are asking if there is a blade coating that you can apply to stop the sawdust buildup?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

bandmiller2

Bob I wonder if a clear spray wax would help.??  Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Robert Duval

No it doesnt happen with new blades and these are the ripping blades we got right from woodmaster.  We were sending them out to be sharpend and when they came back they would have this weird oily coating on them. The first thing I did was call woodmaster and they gave me the specs for minimum side clearances.  We are well above the minimum kerf limit. The sawdust builds up on the sides of the blades and creates so much drag that we can only run at half the speed we used to.

Chuck White

My suggestion would be to leave the coating (from the sharpening service) on the blades until they're ready to use.

When you need to change the blade and put one on that's been resharpened, just wipe it down with some diesel on a rag!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

dboyt

Might try silicon spray.  I use it on sliding parts and NOTHING sticks to it.  I've never tried it on a blade, but haven't had your problem, either.  Another thing that will clean up a blade in a hurry is to run it through some eastern red cedar.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

Nomad

Quote from: dboyt on January 29, 2014, 10:00:26 AM
Might try silicon spray.  I use it on sliding parts and NOTHING sticks to it.  I've never tried it on a blade, but haven't had your problem, either.  Another thing that will clean up a blade in a hurry is to run it through some eastern red cedar.

     I'd be real leery of silicon spray.  I tried that once.  Nothing sticks to it, but the Dang blade won't stay on the wheels either!
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

beenthere

QuoteSorry should have been a little more specific. This problem is happening on our gang saw and table saw. Our gangsaw is a woodmaster 718 and can not have water run in it. Our band blades still go to woodmizer to be sharpened.

Just a reminder, that the OP was talking circular blades, not band blades. ;)  ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Nomad

Quote from: beenthere on January 29, 2014, 11:52:36 AM
QuoteSorry should have been a little more specific. This problem is happening on our gang saw and table saw. Our gangsaw is a woodmaster 718 and can not have water run in it. Our band blades still go to woodmizer to be sharpened.

Just a reminder, that the OP was talking circular blades, not band blades. ;)  ;)

     Uh, yeah...  That does make a bit of a difference. ::)
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

Peter Drouin

Is the wood green or dry?
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

drobertson

I have seen this on table saws before, side clearance on the tooth is worth looking at.  Sharp teeth will help but not alleviate this totally.  It has to be wood type specific in conjunction with blade sharpness and feed speed.  A brass brush would help knocking off the build up without affecting the sharpness, as to a coating,  try a kerosene wipe between cuts.      david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Robert Duval

All the wood we cut is green. We cut 1 inch boards with the mill then stack them up for a couple weeks. Then they make it to the woodmaster.  When we first got the woodmaster we were feeding boards through it at a rate of 16 feet per minute. I called woodmaster and they said the same thing about the kerf. I measured the teeth where they asked me to and they said we were with in spec. That's when they recommended a blade coating. When I asked what type he said to call a sharpening service, tried they wouldn't tell me what they use.

Peter Drouin

I think it's the set, but I would get a new blade  and one you sharpen side by side and look to see what is different.
Just because it's in spec don't mean nothing. good luck
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Robert Duval

That sounds like a good idea. We are almost to the point where we need to cycle in a new set of blades anyways.  Will measure up the new ones and the old side by side.

Robert Duval

How important is the relief cut on the back side of the tips? My dad hasn't touched them at all and it doesn't look like the sharpening shop did either, could this cause this issue?

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