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Drying Walnut

Started by xlogger, January 25, 2014, 06:34:34 AM

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xlogger

I've got some Walnut logs that I need to cut into lumber or slabs so they will start drying out. I was thinking about sawing all of it into slabs, 5/4 on the smaller logs and 8/4 on the larger ones. I've got an area under a shed near the open end to sticker and stack them. The reason in my thinking about cutting the smaller ones (under 12") into slabs was if they bow any I can edge them later for lumber or someone might want them as slabs. I've not cut any walnuts and was wondering if this might be a good idea?
Also maybe later in the year I was thinking about get a Woodmaster 718 and was wondering if I might be able to use the rip saw attachment to cut any of the 5/4 slabs with that into boards? I'm going to cut all of the logs into 8' or shorter.
Some of the logs I did seal the ends when I got them fresh and some have been cut for awhile without sealing on ends and there is some cracks already in them. I will seal the ends when I cut them into lengths, is there any need to seal the ends that already started cracking?
I'm hoping to have a solar kiln built by the end of the year also and then put them into it for drying after air drying for months.
Thanks for any advise on my walnut or plans here. Ricky
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Den-Den

Walnut is fairly easy to dry, your plan should work fine.  Trimming cracked ends off and sealing would help some; would be worth the trouble for nice wood.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

beenthere

Walnut is pretty forgiving so the end coating not so critical.
Important will be to get it stickered good and the stack weighted after sawing the logs.
Should get good, even air drying while you prepare the solar kiln. Keeping the log lengths close to the same will help when making the drying stacks.

Your plans sound pretty good.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

WDH

Walnut is an  smiley_angel02_wings.  White oak and pecan are  smiley_devil smiley_devilish.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

xlogger

Cutting Walnut is all new to me. I usually just try to keep cedar on hand, but getting more calls for air dry Walnut. I can buy about 15 walnut logs at a good price but they are  under 12".  If I want bigger the prices go up a lot. I have about 6  logs here now with one probably about 16-18" on small end and 16 ft long. I'm going to cut that one in half and slab it 2" on the larger pieces. Maybe try to book match the larger pieces.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

WDH

Sounds like a good plan. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Den Socling

While drying Black Walnut is generally easy, figured wood is not easy. You didn't mention any crotch wood but, if you get need major limbs or crotch, seal the surfaces of the lumber or you will see some beautiful wood crack.

xlogger

I don't have any crotch or limbs now but that is good to know for the future. So you are saying on that to seal all the area that is saw? How will that affect the wood after it's air dried when you want to work with it?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Den Socling

If you use an emulsified wax, like Anchorseal, it will evaporate in a kiln. Also, it's hard to get water out of those areas of figure. 

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