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poplar logs

Started by peterob, January 23, 2014, 04:09:57 PM

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peterob

i've got some big strait poplar I'm going to cut next week, would u leave in log form or saw into cants, or boards and let them dry, i'm going to use the boards on my sawmill building  thanks

Magicman

Since you know the use, I would saw it into the final product and sticker.

There is a similar thread about sawing White Oak.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Peter, When I got my mill, I had to enclose the ends with siding. I had some friends helping me.
I sawed all the Pine siding I could saw in one day and just stacked it...plain.
The next day, we nailed up the green Pine edge to edge.
It air dried, nailed up. It finally shrunk up leaving around 3/4-1 inch gap. Took about 5 months, I guess. Then i sawed my baton and covered the cracks.

Your situation may differ.......but this worked for me.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

47sawdust

I like sawing poplar but it does have a mind of its own and can be unpredictable when drying.My horses love the bark and I will drop a tree or two for them to debark every winter.Keeps them out of mischief.
Some folks stand there framing lumber on edge to keep things straight,well stickered,covered and weight is also good.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

OH Boy

Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on January 23, 2014, 06:23:14 PM
Peter, When I got my mill, I had to enclose the ends with siding. I had some friends helping me.
I sawed all the Pine siding I could saw in one day and just stacked it...plain.
The next day, we nailed up the green Pine edge to edge.
It air dried, nailed up. It finally shrunk up leaving around 3/4-1 inch gap. Took about 5 months, I guess. Then i sawed my baton and covered the cracks.

Your situation may differ.......but this worked for me.  :)

wasn't this the common way they used to build back in the day? and the reason board and batten was created. Seems like I remember reading that somewhere. the pioneers didn't have time to wait for the lumber to dry so put it up, and when it became a shotgun house added the battens, and it became a style.
still a very popular way to build a sugarhouse, even if the wood is dry, just because of the history and old style look.

Qweaver

I've put up a lot of green B&B poplar and it does well and you can expect 1/4 to 3/8 gap when dry on 8" boards.  I did use wide boards (18"+) on my cabin sheathing and cupping was a real problem.  8" to 10" is a much better plan.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Magicman

With wide boards the "smile" must be placed outward.


 
Same with porch boards when the smile is up so that the edges will cup downward.  NOTE: this will allow shelling, but that is a chance that you take.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

36 coupe

I used poplar for the rafters and roof boarding for my mill shelter.Sawed it up and built the roof.The siding was cedar nailed on green.After it dried I put the battens on.If a poplar is nice and straight you can get straight lumber from it.I built a small shed that covers the sawmill head.The track can stand the weather.

peterob

i've been cutting the poplar logs this week, it real nice white an straight  should saw 8or 10  inch boards will make good bat & boards


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