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Add comp release to older Stihl?

Started by Malamute, January 10, 2014, 10:05:13 PM

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Malamute

 I have a Stihl 036 from the mid 90's, is it possible or relatively simple to add a compression release to it? I have some damage in my shoulder and starting it is pretty painful.

Any idea on what parts would cost if it can be done?

thecfarm

Malamute,welcome to the forum. Good question.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

JohnG28

I don't have an ipl for an 036, so I don't know if the cylinder has a place for a decomp or not. I don't think they did. If there is a plug on the cylinder covering a hole for one then it would be simple as removing the plug and putting in the decomp valve. If not, then it is not possible.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

Malamute

 I'll have to have a look at it. Would a different head from a later model likely fit it in case mine wont work?

My budget is pretty tight at the moment, but I need to cut up some firewood and start working on my cabin addition.

thecfarm

It is Al that is always saying replace the pull with a big D handle type? That might help out some.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

beenthere

Welcome to the Forestry Forum

I have the decomp on my MS361 and to be honest, I can't tell if it makes any difference whatsoever. I suspect it does, but not enough to notice when I drop start it.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ianab

There is a decomp valve on my 090 too. You DO notice if you forget to push it.   :D

Other option would be to save up for one of the E series saws with the "Easystart". This is like a wind up spring. You pull the starter cord a couple of times (and nothing seems to happen). When the spring has enough tension it kicks the motor over and starts it. Designed for the ladies, or gentlemen with dodgy shoulders  ;)

I think the MS291 is the biggest saw that has it, but that's a perfectly good firewood saw.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Al_Smith

A 6 dollar D-handle will fix it .An 036 is only 60 cc and shouldn't need a decomp .

sablatnic

A 036 is a 60cc with quite a high compression and Malamute has a bad shoulder, so he could use a compression release.
A friend has the same problem, but a compression release can't be fitted to his saw. If the cylinder on your saw has a plug in front of the spark plug, you are in luck. The release was fitted to the 036 QS, so maybe you are lucky.

You will need these parts:
1128 020 9400 valve
1122 084 1405 grommet

ehp

you can just about do anything if you need to, yes I have put decompressures in lots of saws that never had them but it is some work to do so , first if the cylinder was never drilled and tapped to take a decompressure you will need to take the cylinder off the saw , then figure out where the cylinder has enough thickness to be drilled and tapped to take a decompressure , make sure you clean cylinder very well on inside and polish where you drilled the hole into the cylinder to make sure no junk metal is left , now watch what decompressure you use and where you put the decompressure in the cylinder as the decompressure will need to let less compression off if decompressure is in the combustion chamber up by the sparkplug , to big of hole in decompressure and it will let so much compression off the saw will not start proper , if on side of cylinder like on older husky saws like the 372xp then the hole can be bigger , now 1 thing I always do and for a very good reason is  measure the part on the decompressure that pushes in and lets the compression off , its the plunger , make sure the hole size you drill threw the cylinder is smaller than the plunger so that if the plunger shaft gets broke the end of the plunger on the inside does not fall into the cylinder and ruin the motor , to do this is not hard but it takes abit of time and for some people it is just easier to get a saw that has a decompressure already in it

ZeroJunk

Or, you can chase down an 036 cylinder with compression release and swap them out. Correct top cover would be nice, but you can modify the old one.

Al_Smith

You have several options .FWIW I have a torn rotator cuff on my right shoulder and a torn muscle on my left bicept .With a D-handle to get a better grip than just that whimpy little T handle .

Another option would be a Stihl "Elasto start" which is nothing but a spring loaded starter handle but it eases the strain of the pull .

Malamute

 Thanks for all the comments.

I wonder if the easy start could be adapted to an older saw?

I need to get the saw out and look at it carefully to see if it looks like it would accept a comp release. If it would, that would be fairly simple, I could probably do it myself. If the easy start would work, that may be a useful alternative.

The shoulder has partial tears in the rotator cuff and something called thoracic outlet syndrome, as well as some bulged discs in my back, much hard work with the shoulder aggravates the discs by the shoulder blade also. I've tried to start the saw cold, its pretty painful. I usually drop start it, that wasn't good at all. Once hot it was easier, I started it once or twice when hot, but it didnt feel good. I had someone else start it mostly when I used it last. Besides the firewood, I need to start work on my cabin addition, which will be quite a lot of on and off of the saw. I'll probably be alone for the most part.

I'll get it figured out. I'd thought about trying to figure out an electric start (like a separate starter that I'd push the saw into to engage the starter), but there must be a simpler way. Either the comp release or easy starter would probably be fine if I can adapt them.

thecfarm

Could you sell that one and buy one with the Easy Start? I know a new one will cost more,but a new one might keep you in the game longer. Do you cut your trees in the woods? I'm thinking of an electric saw.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Malamute

 I feel pretty attached to my saw, I've had it since the mid 90's and have built several cabins with it as well as a bit of firewood. It's always run very well, even after sitting a year or more a couple times.

I bought my logs, I don't have the equipment to handle or transport longer logs other than my 16' flatbed trailer. It does get interesting carrying 30' logs on a 16' trailer.

I don't know that an electric saw would hold up or do what I need to, but maybe I just haven't seen a good electric saw. I never considered them to be more than homeowner yard toys.

John Mc

Some saws already have a spot for the compression release molded into the casting, even of there is no compression release.  A friend's Husky 51 did. She considered adding the compression release to it, but since she couldn't do the work herself (disassemble, drill, tap, install clean out shavings and reassemble) it was going to cost more than selling the saw and buying a used one that had comp release already.

If you are really attached to this saw, it might be worth looking at the casting to see if there is already a mounting spot.

Any chance you can safely start it left handed, and ease the burden on your bad shoulder?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Malamute

 I normally drop start it, it's painful to do. The right arm is still doing a lot of the work and stopping the saws downward motion. I've tried starting it on the ground, its really awkward after drop starting it for ages. That's with pulling with my left hand and running the throttle with the right. Standing up on a log wall I'm working on, drop starting it is the only real practical way I think.

If either adding a comp release or fitting an easy start to it will work, that's probably the simplest way to make it easier to start.

John, I think your post about your friends saw was what turned up in a google search and brought me to the forum.

John Mc

Quote from: Malamute on January 11, 2014, 02:29:48 PM
John, I think your post about your friends saw was what turned up in a google search and brought me to the forum.

She never did get it converted. She ended up swapping saws with another friend (we all own some forest land together).  Her saw had a bit more power than his, which he wanted. His saw was easier to start.  (I never had problems starting her saw, but I do have to admit it was pretty stiff for a saw it's size.)

Have you tried clamping the saw between your legs to start it? I put the rear handle inside my right thigh, hold the front grip with my left, and clamp with my legs (to keep the saw's rear handle from sliding up into the "wrong" place), then pull with my right hand to start, keeping the left arm straight (left elbow locked or almost so).  If it's your right shoulder that's bad, I'm guessing this could be done left handed, though I've never tried it that way. This did take a little getting used to when I first tried it, but now it's second nature. I don't even think about it.

I use smaller saws mainly (50 -60 cc), but I've seen folks start 70-80 cc saws this way without a problem (though I don't know if they had a compression release.)
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

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