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New Very Quick Setting Wood Glue

Started by DR_Buck, January 07, 2014, 07:30:49 PM

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DR_Buck

Anyone here try this new Nexabond 2500  cyanoacrylate (CA) glue?   There has been a lot of magazine articles and reviews of this stuff and they all rave about it.   Here are a few.

cyanoacrylate (CA) glue

http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/wood-blogs/fine-woodworking/custom-bill-esler/Can-This-Super-Glue-Work-for-Woodshops-210698361.html#sthash.wyihmFRx.dpbs

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/nexabond-instant-adhesive-test

I went ahead and ordered some tonight to give it a try.   I ordered some of each the the long and short set time.   I'm going to try it on some stair treads I will be making next week.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

jdtuttle

Let us know what you think about it. Can you glue up a couple pieces of scrap & test them for strength too?
Have a great day

jueston

the rockler by my house is doing classes/demonstrations with this new glue too, i haven't heard much about it, but they sure make it sound wonderful.

DR_Buck

My unsolicited review of this new super quick drying wood glue.
OK.  here is my unsolicited review of this stuff.


I acquired some of the NEXABOND 2500L (long work time) and 2500S (short work time) and had a chance to try them both the last few days. Before I actually used it on a real project I just glued together some boards I had laying around. The first was edge-to-edge 2 pieces of hard maple that I ran through the jointer. The second was a plan cross cut piece of 1x4 right off of the saw that I glued end on to the wide face of another 1x4. In both cases I put glue on only one piece per directions and I then clamped the boards for about 30 minutes.

After removing the clamps I tried to break the glued joints. I put the glued edge-to-edge piece in a vise and tried to break it with a hammer. I was able to break the board on both sides of the glued edges, but not the joint itself. The other piece was easier to break apart. When I tried to break them apart the glue held and the fibers ripped out of the face of the 1x4, but the glue held.

I think I'm still going to be using a lot of yellow wood glue. The working time on the 2500L is probably sufficient for most medium sized glue-ups, but on the one glue-up I was working I had to rush so I could get them all into the clamping fixture. This stuff also has a pretty nasty odor when you use a lot of it in a closed space.

Bottom line is I like it!    8)  I'm sold and will be using this stuff for anything I want glued and ready to work with quickly.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

SwampDonkey

I was wondering what the 2500 means, bond strength? If so, Lepages is just as strong, clamp time 25 minutes. I see no advantage. ;D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

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DR_Buck

Quote from: SwampDonkey on January 13, 2014, 07:53:32 PM
I was wondering what the 2500 means, bond strength? If so, Lepages is just as strong, clamp time 25 minutes. I see no advantage. ;D

Don't think they are even in the same league.    Here is the datasheet for the 2500L

Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Dan_Shade

I'm always afraid of the new fangled crap falling apart in 5 years.  I used hide glue for a project, and liked it.
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POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Dan_Shade on January 13, 2014, 08:34:50 PM
I'm always afraid of the new fangled crap falling apart in 5 years.

:D :D :D
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

jueston

making glues which are stronger than the wood they attach to doesn't seem very productive.... if you can make a completely unbreakable glue joint, it just means that the wood will be the weak component and break first .... i opinion is that if your glue joints are weak, the problem is with the joint, not the glue....

one comment i heard about this glue is that it isn't trying to replace the glue you're using now, it is more of a special purpose glue for certain joints. which makes sense, we all know that every type of glue has its limitations, whether it's gap filling, open work time, price, or availability. so i think its good to know these limitations and have several options for when a specific occasion calls for a different glue....

Busy Beaver Lumber

I am still willing to bet I can glue my fingers to something by accident.

Me and super glues just never seem to get along.

Sooner or later a blob of it rushes out of the tube and onto my fingers and I wind up being attached to something I would rather not be glued to, then spend the rest of the day separating myself from the object and sanding the glue off my finger tips. :-\

I will stick with my titebond II and 15 and 30 minute epoxy.
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jdtuttle

DR,
Did you notice any expansion in the glue after drying? I've used gorilla glue a few times & had issues with the way it expands.
Have a great day

DR_Buck

Quote from: jdtuttle on January 14, 2014, 06:43:38 PM
DR,
Did you notice any expansion in the glue after drying? I've used gorilla glue a few times & had issues with the way it expands.

Zero expansion.   What you squeeze out is all you see.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Lud

I use a lot of CA in my turning.  Thin, medium and thick all and what I like is the accelerator.  Huge difference in set up.   I can seal a crack and be turning again in a very few minutes tho wait time only improves the hardness.  The best I've found is in a finger pump sprayer from Starbond.  The aerosol stuff from Woodcraft gives me a headache and costs twice as much.

If you like the CA glues , check out Starbond.  It ships from Calif.  I was surprised to get samples of their black and brown CA. also.  Buying the 16 oz. glue cut my costs by 2/3 compared to my old supplier. ;)
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

Tom L

I picked up some glue similar to this stuff last week, it is called super T
lee valley sold it, super fast glue

I used it over the weekend to glue some decoy heads onto bodies. it worked really well. I put the glue on one side of the connection and set the decoy head in place, and held it there for 15-20 seconds and waalllaaa, it was stuck in place. the connection gets a #10 screw thru it so the screw holds all of the weight.

before I was using titebond 3, and with that glue I would have to brad nail the neck joint in place while the tite bond dried. overnight most of the time. this time with the new glue, I drilled the thru hole and screwed in the #10
only a few minutes after I set the head in place. saved a lot of time and has stopped me from having to fill and sand the finish nail holes in the neck.

so a nice job Dr Buck with bringing this topic up. it is going to save me a lot of time and labor

Lud

Tom,  I'm pretty sure your "Super T"  is what I'm calling CA (which is C.A. that stands for Cyano Acrylate) which is also the family of the classic Super Glue.  And it's all pretty good, useful stuff.

But if I pay somewhere between $9 and $12  for 2 oz.   at some suppliers and can pay $30 for 16 oz. (that's equal to eight 2 oz. units) then  it costs me in the $3.70ish range for the 2 oz.  That works for me as I'll use it and save bucks too.

Plus , try the accelerator on any CA, ....it sets in no time.
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

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