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Favorite Siding Materials

Started by nightfury, January 06, 2014, 03:40:09 PM

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nightfury

What are some of your favorite siding materials to use on your frame?

Roger Nair

Vertical grain red or yellow cedar are tops in my book.
An optimist believes this is the best of all possible worlds, the pessimist fears that the optimist is correct.--James Branch Cabell

danreed76

We're planning on live edge lapboard siding, poplar bark shingles, and possibly a few accent pieces of rusty classically aged, reclaimed corrugated tin.
Woodmizer LT40 Hydraulic with resaw attachment |  Kubota MX5200  | (late)1947 8N that I can't seem to let go.

bigshow

poplar bark shingles look awesome, but man are they some serious $$$$$$$$$
I never try anything, I just do it.

danreed76

Quote from: bigshow on January 07, 2014, 09:05:35 AM
poplar bark shingles look awesome, but man are they some serious $$$$$$$$$

They are expensive, but I have some big poplars that need to come down this spring with some DanG purty bark on 'em.  We're going to wait till the season's right for peeling the bark to fell the trees, then skin 'em before I drag them to the mill shed.  Haven't decided yet if I'm going to send the shingles out to a kiln, or if I can afford the time to build my solar kiln this year.
Woodmizer LT40 Hydraulic with resaw attachment |  Kubota MX5200  | (late)1947 8N that I can't seem to let go.

ancjr

Does poplar bark really last 75 years?

S.Hyland

I like reverse board and batten siding. It has a cleaner look than regular board and batt and also gives an air space/ drainage plane behind the siding. Two birds with one stone! I prefer the look of clapboard though overall, with some classy trim detail and something different up in the gable ends. We have a fair bit of larch around here which has decent  rot resistance and looks pretty sharp!
"It may be that when we no longer know which way to go that we have come to our real journey. The mind that is not baffled is not employed. The impeded stream is the one that sings."
― Wendell Berry

danreed76

Quote from: ancjr on January 07, 2014, 12:26:00 PM
Does poplar bark really last 75 years?

I can't say for sure.  I've heard estimates of 50 and 75 years.  We're going to use it on the gable ends above the live-edge lap siding; I sure hope it lasts that long up there!
Woodmizer LT40 Hydraulic with resaw attachment |  Kubota MX5200  | (late)1947 8N that I can't seem to let go.

thecfarm

I know poplar is diffeant where you guys are. The poplar bark that might work for shingles is balm-of-gilead in my area. It's a think bark. Can you give me a quick low down on how the bark is used to make shingles?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

ancjr

Quote from: danreed76 on January 07, 2014, 08:29:38 PM
Quote from: ancjr on January 07, 2014, 12:26:00 PM
Does poplar bark really last 75 years?

I can't say for sure.  I've heard estimates of 50 and 75 years.  We're going to use it on the gable ends above the live-edge lap siding; I sure hope it lasts that long up there!

That would indeed be a good thing.  I like poplar bark and b&b.  Will likely have it here some day.  :)

danreed76

Quote from: thecfarm on January 07, 2014, 08:36:11 PM
I know poplar is diffeant where you guys are. The poplar bark that might work for shingles is balm-of-gilead in my area. It's a think bark. Can you give me a quick low down on how the bark is used to make shingles?

Our poplar down here is Tulip Poplar.  During the harvest season (early to mid April through June, I'm told) after felling the tree and bucking to length, you cut the bark along the length of the trunk, peel it with a bark spud or pry bar, then flatten it out and cut into sheets which you can then lay flat on pallets and allow it to dry flat.  It can then be cut into the desired sizes of shingles, and nailed up just as a wooden shingle.  Some say kiln dry it while it is in larger sheets, and others say after it's cut into shingles.  Talking to a few old timers, they say it doesn't need kiln drying at all, because bugs don't like poplar bark... that might be a good one for Dr. Gene Wengert to chime in on.

Dan
Woodmizer LT40 Hydraulic with resaw attachment |  Kubota MX5200  | (late)1947 8N that I can't seem to let go.

thecfarm

The peeling part I understand.Mine starts about May and goes into early July. Thank you. Interesting.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Thehardway

My vote would be for Tulip poplar B&B.  Then Live edge Cedar clapboard.  Other favorites are Cedar shingle and split white oak shingle.
Norwood LM2000 24HP w/28' bed, Hudson Oscar 18" 32' bed, Woodmaster 718 planer,  Kubota L185D, Stihl 029, Husqvarna 550XP

nightfury

I have been reading Jack Sobon's book, "Build a Classic Timber-Framed House," and I was wondering about his topic of allowing airflow for the materials to breathe. I know he recommends lapped siding, but would b&b and reverse b&b be sufficient?

D L Bahler

Can you give some specifics of your project? It's best to match your chosen enclosure to the structure, for example perishable materials like wood function a long time if given protection but deteriorate quickly if left exposed.


nightfury

D L, I am referring to a classic cape cod/saltbox home. A timber frame skeleton with 2x T&G sheathing, fiberglass rigid board and siding. I really like the looks of shiplap, but in Mr. Sobon's book, he brings up the importantance of having airflow between the sheathing and siding. Would you be able to have sufficient airflow with shiplap or reverse b&b wood siding? I am more concerned with longevity of the structure than r values.

D L Bahler

OK I see what you are after

I would say reverse B&B will give you plenty of airflow. With other siding styles, you might consider nailing straps across the sheathing perpendicular to the siding. This will keep the siding off of the sheathing. That way, moisture is free to accumulate on the wrap that you might be using without putting your siding at risk.

Hope that helps

bigshow

there is also a product called Cedar Breather that you can put between siding and sheathing.  Its fast and easy, but of course its another material adding $$ to cost per sq ft.  I found trimming out windows and doors with firring strips was a pain because of the extra thickness it adds to the overall depth of the wall.  Cedar Breather adds minimal additional thickness.  ~3/8".  I have areas that I did firring strips, areas that I did Cedar Breather.  The Cedar Breather areas went WAY faster.  If time is money at all, or you dont have much help, might wanna look into it.  Just throwing this out there for those that may not know about it to at least check out.
I never try anything, I just do it.

dustyjay

Has anybody on here had experience with fiber cement siding?
Proper prior planning prevents pith poor performance

jueston

Quote from: dustyjay on January 11, 2014, 04:05:33 PM
Has anybody on here had experience with fiber cement siding?

i work as a project manager for a General contractor. and fiber cement is all the rage these days, everyone wants it. my siding installer told me he prefers LP smartside over fiber cement, he gets to many call backs about fiber cement.

in the opinion of 99% modern architects, there are only 4 options: LP smart side, fiber cement, vinyl, metal siding.


bigshow

I bought my traditional materials from two local lumberyards in an area with a white hot housing market, neither will even sell fiber cement.  One yard said that not only is it aweful around moisture, but the particles when sawing will be the next asbestos and they are staying out of every last part of lawsuits that will arise.  LP smartside all the way amongst the pros where I am.
I never try anything, I just do it.

TW

My favourite is board and batten. Rough sawn 1 inch thick boards with 2 by 7/8 inch battens. Preferably with the boards tapering in width to get the most out of the log.

If well made from local spruce such a siding may last up to 250 years in our climate though 80-100 years would be more typical.

Don_Papenburg

I like brick first ,  then wood lapsiding , then B&B , vynal  is the worst . It gets brittle in the sun fades fast and breaks with a little bit of hail
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

Tom King

I've built several houses, including the one I'm living in, with White Oak 1x6s vertically Board on Board.  I never really liked small battens.  The middle board shows about 2-1/2" between the outer boards.  Put on with stainless nailgun nails.  First house with such siding was built in 1977.  Our house I built in 1980 when the White Oak rough boards were a hundred bucks a thousand.  Woodpeckers and Flying Squirrels can't do anything to it like they can with Cedar.  I pressure wash ours every 10 years or so, and that's all it gets.  After pressure washing, it looks like it did when I first put it up.

dustyjay

Tom can you put up a picture of your oak board on board?
Can someone show me a reverse B&B on their house? I am thinking through siding options  right now and have definitely decided against cement fiberboard. I got that idea from a book on building net zero energy homes.

Right now I am thinking to do beveled cedar siding over plywood and vapor barrier. Would I need to leave air space between the vapor barrier and the cedar or does cedar breathe enough?

As I am thinking about enveloping the frame, I am wondering about allowing it to breathe and wrapping it up tight. I'll post the current design in the gallery soon with more questions.
Thanks!
Proper prior planning prevents pith poor performance

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