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NEW TRACTOR! , Tires filled?

Started by uplander, January 02, 2014, 01:22:18 PM

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uplander

 Wife agreed we could get a new tractor and even said she would pay for half of it! What a good woman!
Anyways I see there are a lot more options available these days for loading the rear tires.
My main concern is internal corrosion of the wheel rims.
Will windshield wiper fluid cause rust problems?

Who can tell me about the beet juice fluid?

Thanks all!
Woodmizer lt40G28.  A kubota L4600 with loader and forks.
Various Stihl saws and not enough time to use them!
Finished my house finally. Completely sawn out on by band mill. It took me 7 years but was worth it. Hardest thing I have ever done.

Ljohnsaw

I'd have them tubed then you don't need to worry about the rims rusting.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

beenthere

I load with WW fluid, but the beet juice is heavier than water. Expensive, but apparently non-corrosive like the WW fluid.
I avoid the calcium, whether tubed or not. Takes but just a pin prick in the tube to leak and then start the corrosion.
But there are a lot of choices to pick from.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

chevytaHOE5674

What kind of tractor and what are you going to be using it for?

Saki

Not sure which of the new options are best, but do know that avoiding the calcium is a good plan of action. Bought an old WD allis once and had a rim so eaten up I was scared to ride it up on the trailer. Has a football sized piece of inner tube poking out where the stem area of the rim used to be. Thought would bust for sure, but it didn't.

If this is a loader tractor and loading the rims is for that purpose, you could also consider making a counterweight that goes on your 3 pt. This neck of the woods a 55 gallon drum filled with concrete or even water, fabricated to have the 3 pt hitch components is a common sight. A 55 gallon drum with those hitch components welded on and filled with water would be somewhere around 450 to 500 pounds. Most do this approach for loader tractors that are used intermittent as a loader, and for other chores routinely.

thurlow

You didn't ax this particular question, but here goes;  I'd find out what the tire shops (those who fix tractor tires) in your area are using.  Around here, they ALL switched from CaCl to an alcohol based solution about 20 years ago.  As far as the CaCl, we used it for 40 some-odd years with no problems, but it's much simpler to use what everyone else is using............
Here's to us and those like us; DanG few of us left!

Brad_S.

After 30 years of fussing with vintage Ford tractors that may or may not started when I needed them, I splurged and bought a new 4x4 Kubota. After going on line and researching tire weights, I had them fill them with beet juice. It is supposed to be the heaviest option available with minimal side effects on either the equipment or the environment. It was a bit pricey but I feel you get what you pay for in the world of equipment.
If you are going to do any plowing or using any implements that will tie up your 3pt so you can't use the barrel weight, you will want the extra weight the filled tires provide for traction.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

Qweaver

My new property has a lot of steep banks.  Will filling the tires help prevent rollovers?  I have a JD 110, how would I know how much weight filling would add?  I am only about 1000 lbs. away from max on my trailer now.  Actually with the tractor loaded properly the truck is taking a lot of that load off of the trailer, so I have a little more leeway.   I'd like to load the tires if that would give me more traction and rollover protection.
Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Brad_S.

I am no tractor expert but I don't see how it would help prevent rollover in any fashion.
Only the rear tires are usually filled. I asked about the fronts as I don't have a loader on it and wanted all the traction I could get but they said filling the fronts, even on a 4wd, offers minimal gain.
I bet a JD dealer could tell you how many gallons it would take to fill the size tire you have and also give you a pounds per gallon weight of the solution you plan to use.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

thurlow

Quote from: Qweaver on January 02, 2014, 03:41:08 PM
I have a JD 110, how would I know how much weight filling would add? 
Quinton
How much fluid will my tire hold?   http://www.messicks.com/blog/post/Liquid-Tire-Ballast-Chart.aspx
Here's to us and those like us; DanG few of us left!

beenthere

QuoteI am no tractor expert but I don't see how it would help prevent rollover in any fashion.

Brad
You don't think having weight added down low will help move the center of gravity down as well?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Qweaver

Thanks Thurlow. I would be adding over 1000 lbs.  I agree Beenthere,  It would have to help some.  These hills scare me.  My relatives scare me just watching them on these hillsides.  But they do it all the time.  Not me!
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Brad_S.

Quote from: beenthere on January 02, 2014, 04:13:12 PM
QuoteI am no tractor expert but I don't see how it would help prevent rollover in any fashion.

Brad
You don't think having weight added down low will help move the center of gravity down as well?

I guess I was thinking more about the type of rollover where the tractor pivots around the axle and comes over the top. Having always owned lighter tractors, that has always been my fear and the first thing I think of when I hear "roll over".
I guess when considering a sideways rollover, it probably would help but to what degree?
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

jdonovan

Quote from: Qweaver on January 02, 2014, 04:23:01 PM
I would be adding over 1000 lbs.
Ooo you gota ya a big tractor then.  Something 50-60HP+ to have 500lb/each tires.

Another option is cast iron weights that bolt to the rims. A little out of fashion these days, but no way the corrode the inside of the wheels.  :D

Beat juice is nice stuff, but spendy. But its likely to be a one-time expense for you. Not too many hobby tractor users wear out tires before they sell the machine.

QuoteMy relatives scare me just watching them on these hillsides.  But they do it all the time.  Not me!
just cuz they get away with it doesn't make it smart, or a good idea. Keep that ROPS up, the seat belt on, and the loads down low.



Quote from: brad_sI guess I was thinking more about the type of rollover where the tractor pivots around the axle and comes over the top.

Almost not physically possible if you hook the pull point below the rear axle.

When this usually happens, is when someone uses a 3-point hitch in the lifted position as a pulling point.


QuoteI guess when considering a sideways rollover, it probably would help but to what degree?

Tremendous help. Night and day differnet. Loader work that used to cause a 3-wheel turn with unfilled tires, and a heavy implement.  I can now do without an implement on the back. With filled tires + an implement, even better.

beenthere

Yup, rollover isn't a backward flip. As said, nothing to do with weight in the tires, but has to do with proper weight on the front end and correct pulling point.

I added spacers to my tractor wheels to set them out further, and the pucker factor is much, much less when on the side hills.

The JD 110 TLB has 17.5 x 24 rear tires, so should take some gallons of fluid.

And Brad, tractors didn't come much safer than the old vintage Fords like the 8N's for stability.   :) 
Pulling logs out on the 3 ph with the log lifted for traction would/could make the front end light and raise up a ways making it necessary to steer using the brakes.  Even stood it up on its rear end a couple times, but usually got someone or two to ride the hood if it seemed to be a problem.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

dutchman

Qweaver: I run at least 8 different tractors every year.
If side hill roll over is your fear you need to see if you can spread
the rears. Most rims have a tight, and spread position.
One small loader I have I put factory 8" spreaders on right after purchase.
The JD 2010 I run has bars on the rim, they adjust 10".
When they fill tires with fluid they put the valve at 12 o'clock and fill to the top.
2010 took 60 gallon.

thecfarm

Any tire place that fills tires should know how much weight to put in them tires. I even have the wife's tractor tires loaded. That is just about a glorified lawn mower. I have the tires loaded on my 40hp NH and the rears are spaced out wide. I perfer something in the tires. The weight is down low,not up in the air behind you.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

uplander

Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on January 02, 2014, 02:01:44 PM
What kind of tractor and what are you going to be using it for?
It is a Kubota, 4wd. About 40 hp. I will use it to skid logs to my mill in conjunction with an arch. Also will use it move 4-5 chords of firewood out of my woods to the house/barn area of my property.

The terrain is moderately hilly with a couple dry runs to cross when the water is not up.

I will also use the machine for various construction tasks and to move snow in the driveway.

I don't want to have rust problems with the wheels like I have now with the tractor I have.
Woodmizer lt40G28.  A kubota L4600 with loader and forks.
Various Stihl saws and not enough time to use them!
Finished my house finally. Completely sawn out on by band mill. It took me 7 years but was worth it. Hardest thing I have ever done.

uplander

Quote from: Brad_S. on January 02, 2014, 03:38:16 PM
After 30 years of fussing with vintage Ford tractors that may or may not started when I needed them, I splurged and bought a new 4x4 Kubota. After going on line and researching tire weights, I had them fill them with beet juice. It is supposed to be the heaviest option available with minimal side effects on either the equipment or the environment. It was a bit pricey but I feel you get what you pay for in the world of equipment.
If you are going to do any plowing or using any implements that will tie up your 3pt so you can't use the barrel weight, you will want the extra weight the filled tires provide for traction.

I called the local tire distributor that does farm service and asked about the beet juice. They don't use it and said they use an ethanol based fluid. I am thinking this is just WW fluid and have been told this will eventually cause corrosion problems by others.

Anybody know anything about Kubota's "Rim Guard" product?  I have not yet asked the dealer about these questions.
Woodmizer lt40G28.  A kubota L4600 with loader and forks.
Various Stihl saws and not enough time to use them!
Finished my house finally. Completely sawn out on by band mill. It took me 7 years but was worth it. Hardest thing I have ever done.

jdonovan

most WW fluid is Water +  Methanol + blue die.

chevytaHOE5674

Rim Guard is the brand name for beet juice.

Personally I prefer cast iron wheel weights or suitcase weights mounted to the tractor vs. loaded tires. That way it is easy to add or subtract weight depending on the task at hand, also when you get a flat all your expensive weight doesn't disappear.

If you keep on top of any leaks or flats then you shouldn't have any issues with the wheels rusting out in your lifetime no matter what product you use.

Al_Smith

I think it was last summer I spent the better part of a day welding the holes up on one my Fergusens .I own two of those little tractors both of which had calcium in them at one time or another and rusted the rims tubes in them or not .

Now as far as getting a bite in snow,weight or tires won't help you a bit on a little tractor .It's going to take a set of chains if you want to go in the snow .Ag tires are made for getting a toe hold in soft ground not for digging in in frozen ground or deep snow .

thecfarm

chevytaHOE5674,how right you are. I did not want to be the first to say it.   ;D  I have a 1954 NAA Ford that still has the calium in the tires.I have the same thing in 2 other tractor tires. Get a leak,you fix it and clean up the rims with soap and water.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Al_Smith

I'd imagine more times than not is the "water " valves go bad allowing the calcium to get under over around and through the rims .I think that stuff could rust up things worse that sinking them in the Atlantic ocean for a decade .

They dump that stuff on the roads because it works at temperatures below rock salt .Before the days of better undercoating it could make the frame of an automobile  disappear in a couple years .Many a late 70's Ford broke right into .They didn't have the problem in Arizona though,no ice .

petefrom bearswamp

Had beet juice put in when I bought my 85 hp Kubota in 2007 and have not had any problems.
I was told the only potential prob is with freezing in super cold weather.
Pete
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

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