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lt300 last cut

Started by MIsawyer, December 30, 2013, 09:08:33 PM

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MIsawyer

I saw rift and quarter on a lt300, the timbers are squared up and cut into quarters before they are put onto my logdeck, I then stand the quarters on end with the heart faceing out ward > and saw it down until I get to the point were I have to flip the triangle that is left to take my final cut, the problem is when I saw longs (13FT-16FT) the final triangle tends to bow upwards in the middle or upwards on the ends causing miscut lumber and a lot of headache >:(.  Thanks for the help.

MIsawyer

also I have the setup for air or hydraulic thanks again

customsawyer

Flip the cant as soon as you can, then when you start sawing on the other side leave the lumber on top of the cant. The weight of the lumber will help to hold the cant down. It don't always work perfect but will help 95% of the time.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

JustinW_NZ

Yeh sounds like stress in the cant.
The quarters being sent to you arnt left out for a while are they?

Otherwise flip a bit sooner to even out the stress.

Cheers
Justin
Gear I run;
Woodmizer LT40 Super, Treefarmer C4D, 10ton wheel loader.

stefan

I know that some of the european bandmill manyfacturers like SERRA offers clamps in the toeboards to pull the log down to the bed, and i think woodmizer also offers this option now.

Maybye something like that could help you.

I searched alittle and found this.
Look at 1:50
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=FWlOhDpa-vA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWlOhDpa-vA



drobertson

Without having a way to clamp the ends, and or pull down the center and clamp, there is no way to avoid this that I have seen.  I have to alternate the faces equalizing the stress and this is not 100% when down to the last 2-3" of stock.  A resaw helps on boards in the 6" width range,   david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

customsawyer

If you leave some boards on top of the cant then the last few won't bow up. ;)
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

JustinW_NZ

Quote from: customsawyer on January 01, 2014, 04:04:34 PM
If you leave some boards on top of the cant then the last few won't bow up. ;)

Agreed

I have also seen the clamp down systems and think they would be usefull BUT only help to avoid the fact the cant really needed turning...

Cheers
Justin
Gear I run;
Woodmizer LT40 Super, Treefarmer C4D, 10ton wheel loader.

smwwoody

Hi

I have cut many Millions of feet of lumber on an LT300 and 3500.

My first bit of advice to you is to flip the cant every cut.   this will release the stress a little more even.

the next trick is how to pull the bow out of the the cant with a 300.

Your clamping post will need to be in good shape with good bushings in it.  now when your are traveling in to clamp the cant just as it makes contact with the cant drop the height of the clamp down at the same time.  it has to be a fluid motion to work.  it takes some practice but it works great.  after a little while it will be second nature to you and you will use it every time you clamp a cant.
Full time Mill Manager
Cleereman head rig
Cooper Scragg
McDonugh gang saw
McDonugh edger
McDonugh resaw
TS end trim
Pendu slab recovery system
KJ4WXC

MIsawyer

Thanks for the advice everyone, thattrick might do the trick might do the job smwwoody.  The problem with flipping it is im cutting quarter logs so they are stood up on end ill try to post a pic so it makes more sense. Ill also look into toe clamps

beenthere

Quoteim cutting quarter logs so they are stood up on end

Pics will be good as I don't follow how you are cutting a log stood up on end.  ::)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

MIsawyer

Sorry should have said on "edge" not "end"

MIsawyer


MIsawyer

On the setworks on the LT300 you have your board settings and your cant settings now for the rift and quarter operation I am running I have no cant just a 3" wide triangle on top and 3" wide triangle on bottom.  My cant settings I have setup as board settings so when I flip the quarter I set my last two cuts the bottom board I set on my cant setting and the triangle on top and possibly one board in between.  The reason why I cant flip it earlier is because this is grade lumber and I need to see my board face before cutting to make the correct cut. i.e. if I am cutting select and better 6/4 and 1com and lower 4/4 I don't want to quess on my settings. Sorry if this is confusing I know its not a normal operation

Too Big To Fail

Because I'm curious (not because I know what I'm talking about)- could you slice 'er right down the middle at the widest point, flip the top wedge off to the side for later, and select for grade starting with your widest boards?  Or would doing that cause more stress in the two halves of the quartered cant?

MIsawyer

I think that would cause the same amount of stress

JustinW_NZ

That looks like how I've been doing a bunch of quatersawing recently (give or take)
Its been on eucalyptus and you have to watch it for movement really carefully. (euc's are generally a pain for movement)

If its bad (smaller logs) I oversize the cuts and you just have to make straightening cuts.
Once it broken down its better but you just have to oversize.
Bigger stuff is better.

Anyway, if I take the top off and see it moving (bowing) badly I tend to try and split it in half and release a lot of stress there and then, process each half separately as above, make a straightening cut cafefully to not waste the widest best board.
If your just getting crook and have an edger down line it wouldn't matter - i'm doing flooring and tend to cut and stack and let it dry, and edge later on to avoid any drying crook issues.

Anyway, late night ramblings I hope they make sense!

Cheers
Justin
Gear I run;
Woodmizer LT40 Super, Treefarmer C4D, 10ton wheel loader.

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