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Central Boiler 6048 installation.

Started by Dave Shepard, December 23, 2013, 07:30:24 PM

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Gary_C

I sure hope you are buying enough of the underground insulated pex, the kind with the two insulated lines inside. That underground pex from Central Boiler is expensive but worth every penny of the cost. I had mine laying on top of the ground for one winter and it never melted the snow off the top of the bare line.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Dave Shepard

I bought the good stuff for outside, Fostapex for the inside.
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VTwoodworker

I have the exact set up that you are using with the heat exchanger and the circulator in the oil boiler.  It works great but I had very bad luck with short circulator life in the beginning.  CB recommends the 009's but I found that just running the heat exchanger loop on the low pressure side they were cavatating to death.  I was getting about 3 months from each.  I switched to just 007's which are much cheaper and have 3 years on them with no loss in performance.

There is no elevation difference between the circulator and the exchanger which could affect the installation.

I do revert back to using oil during the summer months for domestic hot water. 

Good luck with getting the system fired up soon.

Wayne

Dave Shepard

Where is your circulator mounted? Mine is right on the boiler.
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VTwoodworker

Yup, the circulator is on the OWB with the heat exchanger located about 100 ft away in the basement.  I have 1" pex line to the heat exchanger.  Could be just something peculiar to my installation - your mileage may vary.

Dave Shepard

I've got the heat exchanger mounted and the wood boiler side of the plumbing done and circulating. My plumber friend is coming in the morning to break into the oil boiler and put the circulator on there and any other valves and fitting needed. I've got the parts to put a make up line from the domestic water to the wood boiler side of the exchanger. You can see the valve on the bottom right fitting. My friend is bringing a proper backflow preventer to put on the other end of the 1/2" PEX that I'm going to run for that. My boiler isn't far from my hatchway, and I was just going to keep a hose coiled up in the basement for the make up water, but a friend with an OWB suggested that that (Tom) might not really be all that appealing at 2:00 AM with two feet of snow on top of the hatch and it's -10 F. :D So, now I'll be able to just open the valve and top it off if needed. I've got to say that wrestling that insulated PEX pipe into the foundation and getting it just where you want it is a five person job. Too bad I only had myself to do it tonight. ::) :D OH, and don't worry about the bent handle on that valve, I'm going to get a longer pipe nipple and straighten the handle. I've got over a half a ton of galvi pipe fittings, but no short nipples. :-\



 
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Dave Shepard

Quote from: Dave Shepard on November 09, 2014, 06:03:05 PM
I've been working away at my installation. It's almost all scrounging, but I've done pretty well so far. :D I've got one circulator and most of my fittings. Going to have to break down and buy another 009 and some more PEX for in the basement. Picked up about 80' of PEX with a bunch of the fittings tonight. My plumber friend is coming this week to do whatever he deems necessary to attach my PEX and circulator to my oil burner. I've got about 8 days of firewood for the wood stove in the house left in the pile, so the race is on. :D

Well, I won, with three days worth of inside wood to spare. 8) I had a bucket full of inside wood and pulled up to the OWB and just tossed it in. Didn't have to go up the steps to the house, or leave a trail of dirt across the living room. ;D That was three days of heat done in two minutes.  :)
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Dave Shepard

I've got most of my heating project wrapped up. Just some insulating details and a thermostat for the Modine I put in today. I stuffed the boiler about 8:30 this morning, and this is what I came home to twelve hours later:



 

8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Cornishman

About right Pete. Frictional losses are a function of length so double the length double the restriction. Get into bigger pipe for long runs. Only problem will then be heat loss. You will need good insulated pipe as bigger the pipe bigger the loss. I have used twin pipe preinsulated  Upnor which is very good but not sure what you have there.

Dave Shepard

I'm using Central Boilers twin PEX insulated pipe. It's about $14 a foot for 1". It seem to be very good.

I had to pry the shanty cap off of my stack a little bit ago. It had gotten smashed down a little in storage, and had gotten plugged with creosote. Not fun balancing on top of the boiler trying to pry that off in the dark, but now things are doing much better.
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DR_Buck

Quote from: Dave Shepard on October 08, 2014, 08:29:47 PM
I have 6' of insulated chimney on my boiler now. I was wondering if adding anymore would be beneficial on a 6048? It's in a open spot now, so no need to go any higher, unless it will help the draft.

Dave -  Just now found this thread.   I have the CB-648 and had it up for about 45 years now.   Installation is documented here:  https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,33912.0.html

I have 4 chimney sections on mine.   It gets the smoke up away from the house.  Otherwise we had smoke coming in when the doors to the house were opened, and it's 80 feet from the house.     

It looks like you are pretty well into it now, but let me know if you have any questions.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Dave Shepard

I have no further need for draft at this time. 6' is plenty. :D Anyone who thinks an OWB needs a blower, and there are many, needs to reassess the quality and dryness of their wood. ;)
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thecfarm

I have a heatmor with a blower. There is no natural draft. I can and have burned cedar that has been leaned up against another trees for years. No limbs on it to even cut off.It will smother that bone dry cedar between cyles AND no boil overs either.  ;) I kinda doubt your OWB will do that. That is why I like a OWB with no draft.  But that is why I went with the Heatmor too. I did have ALOT of dead standing wood to get rid of. After about 7 years,I don't have much dead wood to cut.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Dave Shepard

What are you saying mine won't do? I am burning old pine boards and pine slabs. It smothers it right down so you don't think it still burning, just a big pile of dark charcoal, but when the demand comes, it lights right up. I haven't had any boil overs, but I am having a "boiling" issue. See my new thread. I think it's because I've got the temp set too high, and I'm not pulling the heat away fast enough.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

thecfarm

Sorry,Dave I was wrong. Does just like mine than. Just with no blower.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

DR_Buck

The CB units don't need a blower.   They get plenty hot enough without forced air.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

Dave Shepard

The 007 is proving to be too small at -10°. My baseboards ran pretty much continuously yesterday at 15° as far as I can tell. It maintained 72° during the day, but with -10° and windy, it was 63° in the house this morning. We don't often get much below zero, so I'm not sure how much of a hurry I am to swap pumps, but I will probably do something at some point. I don't know if I'll just put an 009 on the oil furnace to replace the 007, or if I'll move the 009 from the wood boiler inside, and put an 011 outside. The boiler had no problem making the heat, just couldn't get it inside fast enough.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

thecfarm

That's too bad Dave. I don't know if I mentioned on this tread,I run 2 007 and at -12 in the night,the house is warm.  But I do have forced hot air,up stairs,if that matters?? No baseboard. 63° is not good inside at this time of year. Good luck to ya.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Dave Shepard

It'll take more than 63° to upset me. If I was running the woodstove, after last night, it would have been 43°. :D With broken baseboards. >:( It's been 10° pretty much all day, and it was up to about 70° just now, so I think I'll be good to go until the next cold snap. My plumber thinks swapping the 007 on the oil furnace is all that I need to do, but I might still put an 011 outside and an 009 in the basement. We decided that having too much heat available wasn't going to be a problem. :)

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Dave Shepard

I've got about a weeks worth of pine logs for the wood boiler, and then my weekends will be free again. Oil is cheaper than log length, and I don't have to cut, split and feed the oil. :D The way I'm set up, when the oil boiler temp drops below what the wood boiler can maintain, either due to insufficient heat supply (see previous posts above), or the fire goes out, the oil furnace will kick on. I had to have some work done on my oil burner to get it working today, but it looks like I'm all set to phase out the OWB, for the most part. I do have some sawing to do, so I'll burn the slabs as they are made, but that's it. I don't even know if there is any burnable log length around right now, and I estimate it will take $700 or more worth of log length, and about $500 in fuel oil, less if I get the 30% increase in efficiency I was told I'd get if I hoed the truckload of soot out of my oil furnace. :D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Dave Shepard

My boiler is just about to start it's fourth heating season and the circulator on the wood side conked out. It was a used 009 that ran about 26,000 hours non stop. Had a few spare circulators of unknown quality, and found one that worked.  :D I don't know what size if is, but the door on the boiler won't close now. Probably an 011. Going to have to hit my plumber up for some more spares. That's getting harder now that he's pretending to be retired.  ;D

The heat exchanger is pretty amazing. 207° water going in, outlet doesn't even feel warm. House is down to probably 60° water temp, so its really taking the heat.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

overclocking

Quote from: Dave Shepard on November 04, 2017, 08:24:36 PM
My boiler is just about to start it's fourth heating season and the circulator on the wood side conked out. It was a used 009 that ran about 26,000 hours non stop. Had a few spare circulators of unknown quality, and found one that worked.  :D I don't know what size if is, but the door on the boiler won't close now. Probably an 011. Going to have to hit my plumber up for some more spares. That's getting harder now that he's pretending to be retired.  ;D

The heat exchanger is pretty amazing. 207° water going in, outlet doesn't even feel warm. House is down to probably 60° water temp, so its really taking the heat.

I have a pile of pumps in my garage and none worked as good as the NRF36 I have on it now. I actually put one on the house side too now. Before on really cold days I would see into the 60s with baseboards that were only mildly warm.. I put the NRF on the outdoor boiler first and problem solved, the heat was exchanging. Then I put one on the house side as well and it helped there too. My baseboards get really hot now, they actually tick quite a bit and the difference is night and day. Burns less wood too.

Its 3 speed manually adjustable and can handle some serious head ratings.

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