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Making random width siding out of ERC

Started by francismilker, December 10, 2013, 02:22:51 PM

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francismilker

So I've started framing my small cabin and would like to use ERC as siding.  I've got lots of it to cut but don't have hardly enough of it to completely do the cabin in 1x8's or wider.  I'm wondering if someone here can give me some ideas on how/what to cut to use ERC horizontally in random widths from 4" up to 12" widths? 

I used vertical studs on 16" center so I'm adament about laying the siding horizontal.  I plan on sheathing it with some 1\2" osb or plywood but still prefer horizontal siding.  I just want to make sure I have overlap on the joints or do some fancy mill work to prevent moisture and air from slipping in between the cracks.  Any ideas or thoughts?
"whatsoever thy hands finds to do; do it with thy might" Ecc. 9:10

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thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

mesquite buckeye

My suggestion is to make your board widths in even inches, then you can match them up for each run without having to recut them to the same width as they are going up. If you make shiplap joints, the water will mostly run down. Tongue and groove if you really want to get fancy and keep out all the wind.

Thats how we do it with random width flooring. It isn't really random, just looks like it. ;D 8) 8) 8)
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

RPowers

Quote from: mesquite buckeye on December 10, 2013, 02:37:49 PM
My suggestion is to make your board widths in even inches, then you can match them up for each run without having to recut them to the same width as they are going up. If you make shiplap joints, the water will mostly run down. Tongue and groove if you really want to get fancy and keep out all the wind.

Thats how we do it with random width flooring. It isn't really random, just looks like it. ;D 8) 8) 8)

x2   

This is what I am doing with oak siding for my house, using my mill.
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2015 Woodmizer LT50HDD47

jcbrotz

Flitch cut or live edge would be my choice.
2004 woodmizer lt40hd 33hp kubota, Cat 262B skidsteer and way to many tractors to list. www.Brotzmanswoodworks.com and www.Brotzmanscenturyfarm.com

francismilker

Quote from: thecfarm on December 10, 2013, 02:25:52 PM
Could you use a house wrap?

Yes, I'm planning on using a house wrap. I just don't want it to be exposed through the gaps and cracks longterm and be exposed to the weather.

I was planning on cutting to even dimensions.  I just know I don't have access to the amount of large cedars it would take to cut 8" widths for the entire cabin.

I'm planning on using live edge boards for the eves.
"whatsoever thy hands finds to do; do it with thy might" Ecc. 9:10

WM LT-10supergo, MF-271 w/FEL, Honda 500 Foreman, Husq 550, Stihl 026, and lots of baling wire!

drobertson

I am thinking like the posts above, if you let it dry some, mixed numbers will be no issue. random looks good, it mixes up the pattern in my opinion, the gaps should be negligent.  A lap joint would help, otherwise find more logs to get your 8" requirements.  Hope to see some pics soon,   david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

thecfarm

I suppose you don't want to clap board it. I would like to use cedar on the wife's Woman Cave,but have the same problem as you with wide boards. I just plan on cutting it 3/8 flat and putting it up that way. I walked by the wood shed down by the old farm house for years and always thought it was clapboarded. It's starting to fall over and just last year I noticed it was all sawn flat 3/8. I suppose they used a narrow cheater board on the bottom to start with. But I know it would take more lumber too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Cedarman

If you just butt the boards together, make sure the background is black.  Aesthetics, you know.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

coastlogger

Horizontal siding needs to be lapped. 1 inch lap works for me. IMO random lapped widths on  the same wall would look bad. Maybe you could do say 8 inch on one wall,7 inch on another wall etc?  I do my siding 5/8 inch thick,get lots of favourable comments.
clgr

mesquite buckeye

I guess you could just cut 4" clapboards and keep it simple. Thinner on one edge, less wood. I'd be a little worried about red cedar splitting, esp near knots. Might be something to test before you get half way done with one side and all the lumber cut and you don't like it. :( :snowball:
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

wolf nemeth

All of the above!  I  built a 30x40  building with 12' walls and  red cedar siding.  It was impossible to find  any quantity of boards wider than 6"  (that's way before I bought my own mill) , but there was enough that I could use different widths on different sides of the building.  I lapped 1" off each inside bottom for a better  fit. and then  used  matching caulk before I butted the boards to each other.   And I used deck  screws instead f nails; a lot of pre-drilling, but no splitting that is so typical of cedar.  You might say I took along a lunch, but the result was very pretty and stout.
If you  don't know where you're going, you'll probably end up somewhere else!

Cedarman

We have made many 10's of thousands of feet of beveled ERC.  Usually about 1/4" thin edge to 5/8" thick edge from 5 to 8" wide, mostly 6" and 7".  Many repeat customers.  Very little problem with ERC spitting.  Does help to drill near ends of boards.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

j-dland

 

  

  

  This is a wall I built from a lot of random width cedar I had laying around. A lot of narrow boards from small logs. I found that if I cut them 5'' wide a lot of narrow and wider boards were useable. Cut at 5/8 thick,45* both edges, and joints, with tar paper over osb . Turned out pretty good, and I was able to salvage a lot of otherwise junk boards. Also, I leave a live edge one side, and plan to use these edgings for trim.
David

oklalogdog

j-dland  - looks pretty darned good.  I never thought of doing that.  Did you do any caulking between the boards?
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j-dland

Started out using hard as nails, but it was getting on board faceing so discontinued and went on without it. Cedar is so weather resistant ,with tar paper backing I figured it would be okay. Time will tell.
David

Don_Papenburg

F/milker,  Hi , I would use the wider boards at the bottom and work up getting smaller to smallest at the top.   Used to use tarpaper strips between the hard fiber siding years ago . some would put the strips under the butt joints of wood siding also ,laping over the row below by about 1/2 -3/4 inch. 
I found some cedar a couple of days ago  about a 100 miles from me .  I will be short a of what I need .  I was thinking that I would put western red between the ERC s, sort of a reverse batten effect , to make up for the shortage.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

1woodguy

J-dland 
   Your method I like! Haven't seen that idea
And I still like tar paper
Experience is a rough teacher first you get the test later comes the lesson!

mesquite buckeye

Western red cedar won't last nearly as long as eastern. It is a different genus and much less rot resistant. I had some for decking that was all bad in 20 years, even though most of the time the wood was dry.
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Don_Papenburg

I am lining a closet so the weathering should not be a problem  ;D
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

Rockn H

I like all the ideas... looks like it's a choice of which you like the looks of best.  I like tar paper as an underlayment, but everybody has a different opinion about wraps. lol

I would 45 deg. the ends of the boards where I butted them together so the ends overlap and help seal out the weather.

j-dland

Totally agree on 45ing the ends . 

  

  Does not look right without it. Boards are horizontal . Picture gallery insist on verticle say_what
David

beenthere

QuoteTotally agree on 45ing the ends .

Those ends look like 90° butted ..  The edges as shown in an earlier pic show the 45° to me.

Was this old siding that was re-fastened or from salvaged material?  Notice there are signs of old nails along with the phillips screw.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

j-dland

 All ends are 45° , 90° shows lack of planeing  ,looked bad. The bleeding of nails is from using a brad nailer to install boards , then going back and adding screws afterwards. Kinda think it adds to the rustic look. Jury still out on that one as trim has not been added yet. This was an experiment to salvage what actually looked to be a bunch of low quality boards.
David

shelbycharger400

6 to 8 in large....I've got 16 in wide clear logs  seconds up to 20_24 +     and yes to those who followed me in the past,  I've got the trees I've waited 2 years to get. Im battling the elements, time  and a baby boy on the way.    Erc likes to corrode steel  use stainless steel ,  I've slabbed some with unpronounced black phosphate screws  and nails in them. Trashed a chain  and it had some typical black thin line within the area.   Galvanic nails are a no no as well.

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