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372XP bar length/guage question

Started by DeerMeadowFarm, December 04, 2013, 11:54:12 AM

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DeerMeadowFarm

I just bought a reconditioned 372XP power head. I plan to use it for felling. I currently use a 346XP with an 18" bar for everything. I was thinking of going with a 24" on the 372XP....thoughts? Are all the 372's .058 guage? Baileys shows bars for it from .05 to .063...?

mad murdock

I would go with .050" 3/8" chain, on a 24" bar, or you could also go with low profile narrow kerf chain.  either one will make it zing through wood.  I run a 28" or 32" on mine, though I mostly cut fir, it is nice to have a longer bar if you are in bigger wood, plus you dont have to bend over much while limbing.  372 is a very nice, dependable machine!
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

SawTroll

Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on December 04, 2013, 11:54:12 AM
I just bought a reconditioned 372XP power head. I plan to use it for felling. I currently use a 346XP with an 18" bar for everything. I was thinking of going with a 24" on the 372XP....thoughts? Are all the 372's .058 guage? Baileys shows bars for it from .05 to .063...?

A 24" is fine, but a 20" makes the saw better to handle. Don't use a longer bar than you really need.  ;)

The gauge of the bar and chain is your choise really, they usually come with .058 or .050, depending on where you are etc.
Information collector.

thecfarm

I only run an 18 inch on my 372. But I am clearing a pasture and I go through more bars and chains than most do. Just wore the tip of one last week. I always have a spare on hand. Those longer bars and chains cost more.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

DeerMeadowFarm

I just recently purchased the land (woods) next to our field and I have a bunch of large diameter trees to drop. I could do it with an 18" bar, at least most of them, but I think bucking the trunks would be easier with a longer bar.

FWPT

I run a 24" .058 and love it.  Makes felling and bucking the larger trunks much easier.  Just have to be careful not to hit the ground when going through the smaller stuff with it. Mod the muffler and you can hold higher rpms in the cut and get the job done much quicker!!
Husky 42 special ported(screamer)
husky 372xp xt muff modded

mmartone

I'm in the midst of trying to decide what bars to keep or... I have an 18, 32, 36, thinking about selling the 32 and maybe adding a 24 and a 60 when I can find it. Not that I saw much but I have CAD.
Remember, I only know what you guys teach me. Lt40 Manual 22hp KAwaSaki, Husky3120 60", 56" Panther CSM, 372xp, 345xp, Stihl 041, 031, blue homelite, poulans, 340

sawguy21

IMHO a 28" is the practical limit for the 372, you can go 32" but keep the chain sharp and let the saw do the work. Any longer you need more saw. Bang for the buck, the 372XP is pretty hard to beat.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Left Coast Chris

I run a 32" bar on my 372xp and do fine with it.  The 32" is especially handy for ripping large diameter logs (some are 48").
Home built cantilever head, 24 HP honda mill, Case 580D, MF 135 and one Squirel Dog Jack Russel Mix -- Crickett

Andyshine77

In soft wood 32" will work well, but around here it's more than the saw and the saws oiler can handle. I run a 24" D&C on my 372, anything smaller on a 70cc saw is simply not for me.
Andre.

tlandrum

24'' .050 72dl is what I ran for years when falling timber ,and occasionally I ran a 28'' when timber was large enough
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SawTroll

Quote from: tlandrum on December 06, 2013, 12:32:32 AM
24'' .050 72dl is what I ran for years when falling timber ,and occasionally I ran a 28'' when timber was large enough

Look again at the dl count and bar length you posted, it should be 84 with a 24 bar, 72 means 20"....
Information collector.

webgal

I don't want to call anyone out, but you don't want to run "low profile" on your 372 chainsaw. Low profile or "picco" chain is meant for those little  trimming saws like the 338XP or Stihl's 200T. Unless you plan on milling. If you mentioned that in the thread, I overlooked it.

Good advice on the 24" bar at 84 drivers. That 372 can pull that all day long and want more when you are wanting to head in. For the gauge you are dandy with the .050. You'll find that chain a better price year around on average than the .058 or the .063. Either the 30RC or the 72LGX full comp hits the sale flyers just about every time. Take it from me, I proof read that sucker!

Speaking of which on page 10 of the current Christmas flyer we're offering a 10 loop special on either the WoodlandPRO 30RC84 or the Oregon 72LGX084G. The WoodlandPRO price works out to a mere $14.99 per loop.
Gotta know when to fell em, know when to tell em, know when to walk away, know when to run....

pwheel

Quote from: SawTroll on December 04, 2013, 03:08:24 PM
A 24" is fine, but a 20" makes the saw better to handle. Don't use a longer bar than you really need...
Agree. Also fewer cutters and depth gauges to maintain with a 20" bar.
Stihl MS260 Pro, MS261, MS440 x2, MS460, FS90; 1982 Power King 1614

chucker

I run a 24" an 28" on a 2171 jonsered 58 g. on a bar longer than 20" I will use full comp and skip tooth! I might recommend using a skip chain for less sharpening and faster cutting along with a heavy chain for safety reasons... just my pick of the two gauges... low profile and smaller gauges just make me freak with a saw that has power to boot...
respect nature ! and she will produce for you !!  jonsered 625 670  2159 2171/28"  efco 147 husky 390xp/28" .375... 455r/auto tune 18" .58 gauge

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