Bracket, Up/Down #50 Chain Tensioner bent and Master Link blown out

porcupine · December 03, 2013, 09:19:15 PM

I haven't use the mill in a while and I wanted to run the engine and loosen it up a bit. I was raising up the saw head on my LT50 and after 6 inches off the parked position it stopped.

Error message on the Accuset said "current". I called WM tech support and they said something was preventing movement.

Panels removed - I saw the up/down chain master link broken and the bracket bent and the chain was starting to double up on the sprockets preventing the head from going up.

New parts ordered, received and installed. Simple stuff.

The mill has 68 hours and is in a building. Never abused. After every use and usually once a month I rub ATF on all the rails including the up/down bars so it's wasn't 'frozen'.

I think is maybe the adjustable bracket that secures the chain to the main bed rail was loose? I'm guessing.

Anybody else have this happen?

Magicman · December 03, 2013, 09:55:00 PM

Yes, I had the exact same thing happen a couple of months ago on a road sawing trip when I was about 175 miles from home. I was able to bend and straighten the teeth on the bracket and found enough link parts to reattach the chain. I how carry a spare master link and a ½ link of chain.

My thoughts were that I was putting too much down pressure on the chain when I park the sawmill head on the travel pin. That is the only time that I can think of that pulling force is ever applied to that bracket and link.

POSTON WIDEHEAD · December 03, 2013, 10:07:06 PM

So Magic.....after hours, some sawyers leave the head up enough to get to the battery box the next morning if they have to. Would it be a good idea to let the head down on a length of 2x4 to keep the pressure off the chain and still have enough room to get to the battery box?

Magicman · December 03, 2013, 10:18:53 PM

There is no pressure on that connection with the head up. As I stated above, the only time/way that I can think of any pressure/tension being on that connection is when you bottom the saw head down on the travel pin.

POSTON WIDEHEAD · December 03, 2013, 10:33:58 PM

Quote from: Magicman on December 03, 2013, 10:18:53 PM
There is no pressure on that connection with the head up. As I stated above, the only time/way that I can think of any pressure/tension being on that connection is when you bottom the saw head down on the travel pin.

Peter Drouin · December 03, 2013, 10:41:30 PM

Chain to tight.

highleadtimber16 · December 04, 2013, 01:38:05 AM

Lots of people seem concerned about having to be able to get to the battery, if it's dead. It's easier to hook up straight to the starter. Also doesn't risk damaging the electrical system. Just my thoughts.

Nomad · December 04, 2013, 05:19:08 AM

I learned this lesson the hard way as well. When I talked to a tech he agreed it was caused by putting down pressure on the chain when parking the head on the travel pin. There is a fine line between "down enough" and "too down."

slider · December 04, 2013, 06:17:00 AM

I am a member of this club as well .

porcupine · December 04, 2013, 10:57:31 AM

Magicman I believe you are right. I put the head down completely on the travel pin every time I'm finished for the day and have seen what appears to be 'down pressure' when I release the up/down drum switch.

Next time when I lower the head on the pin I will make sure the chain has slack in it.

Magicman · December 04, 2013, 11:38:31 AM

I now lower the head until it stops/bumps. No tightening like I once did.

Chuck White · December 04, 2013, 12:56:39 PM

Things like that look and sound a lot more serious than they really are, glad you got it fixed.

I never realized that you could actually put tension on the bottom end of the up/dn chain, but now I know.

my next trip to the garage, I'll have to check to see if the bottom of the chain is loose, I always set the mill down on the stop bolts!

On my mill, I can still remove the battery box cover with the sawhead all the way down, it's a little tight, but it can be done!

Magicman · December 04, 2013, 09:31:30 PM

One serious safety note. Anytime that the bottom chain connector is loosened or disconnected, the sawmill head should be chained to the top of the mast. The chain tension is what keeps it in contact with the gears.

This would keep the head from falling.

Jim_Rogers · December 05, 2013, 07:17:26 PM

Twenty years ago, when they trained me how to pack up my mill they told me to lower the head until the "stop" line on my fixed ruler.
Do you guys have a line labeled "stop" on your ruler?
I thought that was standard equipment.

I still only lower the head until my ruler pointer points to the stop line.

Jim Rogers

Magicman · December 05, 2013, 07:34:19 PM

Yes, my scale has a "Stop" line, but I had always "tightened it down". My mistake. I never received any training. It was offered, but I didn't go.

Stephen1 · December 05, 2013, 07:44:29 PM

I bent mine on the top, and was told it was because I did not tighten the clutch on the belt, when travelling, allowing the head to bounce when on the highway.I will have to make sure I do not lower the head to much now .

Nomad · December 06, 2013, 05:52:10 AM

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on December 05, 2013, 07:17:26 PM
Twenty years ago, when they trained me how to pack up my mill they told me to lower the head until the "stop" line on my fixed ruler.
Do you guys have a line labeled "stop" on your ruler?
I thought that was standard equipment.

I still only lower the head until my ruler pointer points to the stop line.

Jim Rogers

My ruler doesn't have a stop line. Exactly where is it located? I'll put one there!

Magicman · December 06, 2013, 07:40:38 AM

At ¾".

Chuck White · December 06, 2013, 12:27:51 PM

I believe the book says to lower the head until the sawhead comes in contact with the travel pin, then lower an additional ¾"!

I need to modify my travel pin!

When my sawhead comes in contact with the travel pin stop, the sawhead will drop another 1½" before it contacts the stop bolts at the bottom of the mast!

So, it looks like I need to remove the travel pin stop, then figure out (translated: measure twice) how far down to go before installing a new stop!