Stringy wood fibers

[Neil_B]

I seem to be getting a lot of stringy fiber coming out of the wood as I'm cutting. Some as long as 2-3 inches.
This is happening right from a fresh blade on. I'm cutting hardwood, hard maple and oak cores, using a 10 deg, 1" pitch blade. Can't seem to get rid of the stuff whether I go slow or fast. Course when I go too fast I get wavy cutting. It's staying attached to the wood, not coming out with the sawdust.

Is this just something that does occur or has it got to do with the blade itself such as pitch, not being as sharp as it should, or possibly set of the teeth.
It's not a huge deal but it is kind of a pain having all this string stuck to the lumber.

Also wondering what grit I should be running in my sharpener. Currently 125 but I'm sure this was brought up before, just couldn't find it, that some were using courser grits such as 80 - 100.

Did a search on sharpener grits and all I got were recipes  :.

[cut2size]

The stringy fiber is a reflection on the sharpness of the blade.  A sharp blade severs the wood fibers cleanly, while a slightly duller blade will pull the fibers away from the cut.  This is especially evident in poplar because the wood is so soft that it will pull fibers with a very sharp blade unless the feed speed is decreased enough to allow the blade to cut rather than tear.  When you resharpen a blade it is best to make 2 very shallow passes rather than one heavy pass.  This will make a micro bevel on the tip of the blade and will cut more cleanly.  A good example is a chisel.  If you sharpen a chisel at 30 degrees it can be very sharp but will dull quickly.  It is better to sharpen at 30 degrees and then lightly sharpen at 35 degrees to produce a micro bevel.  It will cut cleaner and stay sharper longer.
Hope that this helps.
David

[Neil_B]

Thanks for the tip David,
Now are you talking on the face of the tooth or the back of it?

I use a Dinasaw sharpener and go around once doing the face and the majority of the gullet then go around a second time just skimming the back of the tooth. I just started doing it this way and noticed a big improvement from just going around one time.
I've got one of those clamp on desk lights with the magnifying lense in it, on the sharpener and from what I can see, it looks pretty sharp.

Not sure how accurate I can get on this sharpener in order to do a micro bevel grind.

[cut2size]

Neil, when you adjust the cam to remove more of the gullet on th second pass, it is still touching the face (very lightly).  This changes the bevel angle very slightly and causes the bevel to change.  It might be the small amount of wear on the grinding wheel but it does create what I would call a micro bevel.  Someone will probably contradict this, but it works for me.
David

[Percy]

Neil, when you adjust the cam to remove more of the gullet on th second pass, it is still touching the face (very lightly).  This changes the bevel angle very slightly and causes the bevel to change.  It might be the small amount of wear on the grinding wheel but it does create what I would call a micro bevel.  Someone will probably contradict this, but it works for me.
David

Like you David, I do two passes on the grinder for each blade sharpening. Im not up on the bevel thing but there must be somthing to it cause if I only do one pass for whatever reason, it is more than noticable. They cut like they are half dull already. Sometimes Ill do a real lite third grind, more of a polish than grind and these blades really cut like the wood aint there for about the first 10 miniutes.