what type of metal is a 026 muffler made out of

ladrhog · November 23, 2013, 11:07:19 PM

I was thinking about doing a muffler mod and welding a couple of ports on a stock muffler. I have a big welder just need to know the metal type to buy some filler material.

JohnG28 · November 23, 2013, 11:16:17 PM

I'm pretty sure they're steel.

Oliver1655 · November 23, 2013, 11:43:29 PM

"Big welder"??? I use a MIG set for 20 gauge steel. A lot of folks braze or silver soldier.

Ianab · November 24, 2013, 12:47:44 AM

I'd think steel too, a magnet will tell you quick enough. If it stainless or alloy a magnet wont stick.

Ian

sablatnic · November 24, 2013, 02:53:56 AM

It is steel.

ladrhog · November 24, 2013, 07:28:36 AM

man, you gotta love auto correct. i meant tig welder. i will try the magnet thing.

redfin · November 24, 2013, 02:49:43 PM

They are steel. I added a baffle to mine after I opened it up because I didn't like how tinny and loud it was.

JohnG28 · November 25, 2013, 10:52:57 AM

Quote from: redfin on November 24, 2013, 02:49:43 PM
They are steel. I added a baffle to mine after I opened it up because I didn't like how tinny and loud it was.

Isn't that a little counterintuitive to doing a muffler mod in the first place? ???

redfin · November 25, 2013, 11:00:52 AM

Quote from: JohnG28 on November 25, 2013, 10:52:57 AM
Quote from: redfin on November 24, 2013, 02:49:43 PM
They are steel. I added a baffle to mine after I opened it up because I didn't like how tinny and loud it was.

Isn't that a little counterintuitive to doing a muffler mod in the first place? ???

Counterintuitive would have been making the baffle smaller than the original opening. As I stated I made the baffle because I didn't like the way the saw sounded.

The openings in the baffle are 100% of the port opening which is what I was shooting for.

motard · November 25, 2013, 11:29:47 AM

Why Stihl of course.

Don't have a tig, but silver solder works real nice.

nmurph · November 25, 2013, 03:19:15 PM

Quote from: redfin on November 25, 2013, 11:00:52 AM
Quote from: JohnG28 on November 25, 2013, 10:52:57 AM
Quote from: redfin on November 24, 2013, 02:49:43 PM
They are steel. I added a baffle to mine after I opened it up because I didn't like how tinny and loud it was.

Isn't that a little counterintuitive to doing a muffler mod in the first place? ???

Counterintuitive would have been making the baffle smaller than the original opening. As I stated I made the baffle because I didn't like the way the saw sounded.

The openings in the baffle are 100% of the port opening which is what I was shooting for.

Well, 100% or not, that baffle definitely restricts your saw. BTW, 2 smaller openings do not flow as freely as one larger opening of the same area. The smaller openings will have more edge which creates turbulence and drag on the flow.

redfin · November 25, 2013, 03:56:22 PM

Neal, I agree with what you are saying 100%. When originally opened the muffler on this saw it was around 165% and the saw would not idle nor rev to what I thought was right.

I did a lot of reading about larger holes verses more smaller ones. I decided to build this baffle because of the sound. There are 4 holes and the saw does what I think it should now. Not saying its the best way, its just what worked well for me.

H 2 H · November 25, 2013, 06:16:09 PM

Here is what I came up with

I took off little at a time till I found what I liked best it's about 120% of the cylinder opening on one of my 026

JohnG28 · November 25, 2013, 08:00:50 PM

Quote from: nmurph on November 25, 2013, 03:19:15 PM
Quote from: redfin on November 25, 2013, 11:00:52 AM
Quote from: JohnG28 on November 25, 2013, 10:52:57 AM
Quote from: redfin on November 24, 2013, 02:49:43 PM
They are steel. I added a baffle to mine after I opened it up because I didn't like how tinny and loud it was.

That was sort of my line of thought. Still made a maze for the exhaust to travel, which is the opposite of what a muffler mod is intended for, IMO at least.
Isn't that a little counterintuitive to doing a muffler mod in the first place? ???

Counterintuitive would have been making the baffle smaller than the original opening. As I stated I made the baffle because I didn't like the way the saw sounded.

The openings in the baffle are 100% of the port opening which is what I was shooting for.

Well, 100% or not, that baffle definitely restricts your saw. BTW, 2 smaller openings do not flow as freely as one larger opening of the same area. The smaller openings will have more edge which creates turbulence and drag on the flow.

That was my thoughts as well. Made a maze for the exhaust to travel. IMO this is opposite of what a muffler mod is intended for.

nmurph · November 25, 2013, 08:13:52 PM

Quote from: H 2 H on November 25, 2013, 06:16:09 PM
Here is what I came up with

I took off little at a time till I found what I liked best it's about 120% of the cylinder opening on one of my 026

That's what I'm talking about, Brian!!!

GAB · November 25, 2013, 08:30:27 PM

Ian:
I've always been told that 300 series stainless steels were not magnetic and did not rust, and that 400 series stainless steels were magnetic and also rusted. Have I been told wrong? Gerald

nmurph · November 25, 2013, 09:18:41 PM

Yes, not all stainless is non-magnetic.

redfin · November 25, 2013, 09:23:38 PM

Quote from: H 2 H on November 25, 2013, 06:16:09 PM
Here is what I came up with

I took off little at a time till I found what I liked best it's about 120% of the cylinder opening on one of my 026

What did you measure your port opening to? Iirc mine was somewhere around .30".

Al_Smith · November 26, 2013, 08:47:35 PM

It's rather an unconventional method of modifying a muffler but it's not my saw nor my business how it's done .

However generally speaking much over about 85 percent of the area of the exhaust port really adds little to performance other than noise which doesn't do anything but hurt your ears and annoy the neighbors .Might make hounds howl too .

The way that baffle is tacked in there with those little holes you could have half the front cut off the muffler and all that would get through is though those little holes .So a hole 100 percent or 500 percent would not make a hill of beans how it ran ,can't get through the baffles .10 pounds of taters in a 5 pound sack thing .

redfin · November 27, 2013, 09:50:14 AM

Maybe I will try some different openings to test with. I have an ir temp gun and can test cut times. I aslo have a tach to verify where the rpms are after each change. Just when I thought this little guy was running good. Haha

H 2 H · November 27, 2013, 12:32:30 PM

How a measured the open -I put grease on the cylinder exhaust port and transferred that to paper by pressing the paper to the opening

I started the MM roughly around 80% then run the saw (cutting something) and just keep taking more material out till I find what I want all saws are a little different and that's how I got up to what you see in the picture above

FWPT · November 27, 2013, 12:34:53 PM

Quote from: redfin on November 25, 2013, 03:56:22 PM
Neal, I agree with what you are saying 100%. When originally opened the muffler on this saw it was around 165% and the saw would not idle nor rev to what I thought was right.

I did a lot of reading about larger holes verses more smaller ones. I decided to build this baffle because of the sound. There are 4 holes and the saw does what I think it should now. Not saying its the best way, its just what worked well for me.

Have you re tuned the carb each time a change was made??? re tuning should have gotten you the proper idle and spool up rate.

redfin · November 27, 2013, 12:54:35 PM

Quote from: H 2 H on November 27, 2013, 12:32:30 PM
How a measured the open -I put grease on the cylinder exhaust port and transferred that to paper by pressing the paper to the opening

I started the MM roughly around 80% then run the saw (cutting something) and just keep taking more material out till I find what I want all saws are a little different and that's how I got up to what you see in the picture above

I got you, I measured using the opening where the piston touches the cylinder wall and looking at my notes it was .32".

And to the above question, yes I retuned. I messed around with the low speed and idle adjustments for what seemed like hours. I even press/vac tested thinking that may be the problem. Don't get me wrong the saw to someone else may have been just fine the way it was but to me it could be better.

After messing with it for awhile I closed the original port down to about 100% and the saw did what it should. That's when I came up with this brainstorm to make the baffle to quite the saw a bit.

Now, with all the above mentioned posts regarding how I have hindered my saw with the baffle I am going to build a flow gauge and test with this saw. If nothing else, I will learn from my mistakes.

H 2 H · November 27, 2013, 02:00:48 PM

FYI - when doing a MM you'll have to really open up your "L" on the carb

One of my saws says to start at one full turn on the "L" screw on the carb but this saw didn't start running good till it was 2 1/2 turns out

Al_Smith · November 28, 2013, 08:02:06 AM

You have to keep in mind how a pressure can muffler works .In addition to muffling sound it's also a pressure regulating device .

If you cut a giant hole in the muffler all you will do is over run the low speed jets' capability to supply fuel because it "short circuits" at idle speed .If you choke it down with a bunch of baffles it cannot wind up .About like trying to squirt water from a 3/4" hose necked down to quarter inch .If it can't get out it can't get in.Just the way it works .

So now comes the big question .Well then just why could they run old Macs and Homeys with open exhaust---because they had giant carbs not itty dinky ones they use today .