How do you...

[lineguy82]

seal up the edges on a live edge slab? I was thinking spraying would be the way to go, but thought i would tap the FF first before I messed something up.

[Axe Handle Hound]

Are the edges a rough bark surface or has the bark been knocked off?  If it's a bark edge make sure the bark is secure to the wood before finishing.  Depending on the time of year you cut the slab the bark may be prone to falling off which would make an awful mess after you had it all finished.  If the bark is on and secure your best bet is spraying like you suspected.  Watch out for overspray on the face of the slab when you do it though.   If the bark is off you can brush on or spray whatever finish you want. 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Provided you have taken the right steps for the bark to stay on, I soak my bark in Polyurethane using a foam brush. I don't do any spraying what so ever.

[VT_Forestry]

I soak my bark in Polyurethane using a foam brush.

That's what I do too  ;D

[Draco]

Provided you have taken the right steps for the bark to stay on, I soak my bark in Polyurethane using a foam brush. I don't do any spraying what so ever.

What are the steps prior to the poly?

[lineguy82]

It's a hickory slab I cut in se michigan at the end of February last year, the bark is still holding strong.

[T Welsh]

I am a fan of poly too. Stiff bristle brush to knock off the lose stuff ,then compressed air to clean it off and then the poly saturated foam brush. Tim

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Provided you have taken the right steps for the bark to stay on, I soak my bark in Polyurethane using a foam brush. I don't do any spraying what so ever.

What are the steps prior to the poly?

Draco....I don't really pay much attention to sap going up and down. What I do is in the fall, I fell my trees I want for slabs. By doing this, I know this time of the year the heat and humidity is gone. My slabs will begin to dry slowly.
As soon as I drop a tree, I slab it the same day. I never let the bark see sun or rain again.
The trick is getting it from the woods to slab form without damaging much of the bark. Sometimes I will put hooks in each end of the log with chains and carry it with the backhoe to the mill.
I try not to drop any slabs and handle them gently.....any jolting of a slab could cause the bark to begin its release.
Stack and sticker and let it dry with plenty of air flow.
Check your slabs from time to time especially crotch slabs. If I see one starting to split, I put in a bow tie or 2 or 3.
I always seal the end of my logs with ANCHOR SEAL before mill them also.

Once my slabs are dry....I gently blow the bark off lightly with air and apply Poly. I will put on several coats...just on the bark. Later, I will start sanding my slab to get it ready for a table top, etc.


  

 

[inspectorwoody]

What is the thickness of the slab in the bottom picture?

Looks like Hard Maple?

Your work is always nice to look at Poston! 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

What is the thickness of the slab in the bottom picture?

Looks like Hard Maple?

Your work is always nice to look at Poston! 

I milled this slab at 2 inches. After drying, I re-sawed to to 1-3/4" and then started sanding.

[inspectorwoody]

Thanks!

[Draco]

Yes, thank you.  Very nice work, too!

[bedway]

Very nice work indeed. Unique design looks fantastic,,,well done.

[lowpolyjoe]

Great thread!


And that table sure is a beauty Poston

[WDH]

David,

That maple table is still growling at me.  If I come to visit, you will have to put a chain and collar on it. 

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

David,

That maple table is still growling at me.  If I come to visit, you will have to put a chain and collar on it.

My wife is chained to it now....you'd have to take her too!  :D :D :D

[Magicman]

I see that that (Tom) pesky stain is still there.   ;D

[WDH]

He spilled the beans coffee.

[Farmerjw]

Poston, I am making a bar top out of a slab of walnut.  Questioning my attachment methods.  I will be opening up (taking out the upper half) of the wall between our kitchen and dining room.  On the kitchen side the counter will still be there (bar is now planned to be 6" higher than the counter) on the dining room side I thought about triangular braces out from the wall to about 1/2 the distance of the bar overhang.  With slabs/chunks like this do you fasten them solid or do you allow for movement with slots or figure eight connectors? 

[Ianab]

With slabs/chunks like this do you fasten them solid or do you allow for movement with slots or figure eight connectors?

You need to let them move. Like any piece of wood, it can loose and gain moisture with the seasons, and because it's one big board, the movement is usually enough to matter.

What you can do is fix it sold down the back / wall area, then some sort of sliding join on the outside. This means it won't move where it meets the wall, so no pressure or gap opening up there. Any movement will be out at the overhanging edge, where no one notices.

Ian

[Farmerjw]

Would the movement be more width than height?  For instance, I was thinking sliding dovetail type joint with the outside angles firmly attached to the top of the wall (ie:uppermost part of the bar assembly)  Then the center/angled boards/slides firmly attached to the bottom of the bar top.  Then slide the two angled boards into the grooves allowing sliding, but solid attachment.  Clear as mud?  To restrictive on the wood's movement?

[Ianab]

Not 100% sure what you mean. But the most important thing is that wood will change in width, not length.

If I understand what you are saying, you want to attach boards to the underside of the bar top. Then have them fit into a dovetail slot in the support?

This will be a problem. The bar top will change in width, the stingers attached to it wont change in length, and something will come apart.

If you attached the slides to the top with screws / slotted holes, then you are allowing for the movement, and it should be OK.

Ian

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Ian is very correct. The only thing I can add is to make sure your slab is as dry as you can possibly get it. And when installing, by all means, take your time. 

[Farmerjw]

I bought a slab from a buddy, his was in his stickered pile for over a year, has been standing on end for two years in my family room which has a heated floor.  How do you attach something with a screw tightl ooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhh, I see, the bracket that is my slider have a slot, the screw screws into the slab.  Short of ruining the top by having to long of a screw, how tight can I tighten the bar top to the slotted bracket underneath it?

[Ianab]

One screw can be fully tightened so it's not going to move. On a table this would usually be the middle one, so the two edges move evenly. If it's a bar against a wall, fix the wall end, and let the rest slide.

The others you want to back off a little. Maybe if you have a washer under the head, enough so the washer can be moved a little. This allows the join to slide as the wood changes size.

The piece you have sounds nice and dry, so you should be OK there. But if your humidity changes by only 20% with the seasons, the wood could shrink or grow a 1/4" over a 3ft wide piece. Not enough to cause a problem, as long as you allow for that movement.

Ian