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Chain sharpening kit or automatic sharpening

Started by NovaSS, November 19, 2013, 10:01:07 PM

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NovaSS

Im looking around for a chain sharpening kit or automatic sharpening tool. What would be best? Ive never sharpen a chain but ive watched a few videos on it. I always just bought a new chain, but thats just throwing money away. Looking for one with a good price.

mmartone

I'm waiting for my Stihl 2 in 1 file to come in. Its supposed to file the cutter and the raker (gage) at the same time, its supposed to be in tomorrow or wed. I'll report to you'll how well it works or not.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/2in1file/
Remember, I only know what you guys teach me. Lt40 Manual 22hp KAwaSaki, Husky3120 60", 56" Panther CSM, 372xp, 345xp, Stihl 041, 031, blue homelite, poulans, 340

beenthere

I use the $12 roller Pferd Combi file jig from Husky on my Stihl chain.
I can file without the jig, but this works to keep more consistent depth in the tooth.
Have used other file holders, but this one allows for more turning of the file between teeth and while in the tooth.
The jig includes the plate for filing the rakers for soft and hard woods.



 

I found this file guide on Amazon for a better photo in response to a PM from NovaSS.
http://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Combination-Swedish-Roller-Chainsaw/dp/B0020ROXVI
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Philbert

There are several different ways to sharpen chains. You will probably see a bunch of opinions jumping here really quick!!!

You need to find something that works for you. There are advantages to each method, but it can be confusing to try them all. How many chains per week?  How much are you willing to spend/invest?  Hit many rocks ?

The best way, sometimes, is to find somebody that can show you, and try that method.

Meanwhile, pack up all of those single use chains and mail them to me. I will reimburse you for postage!

Philbert

NovaSS

This is the 2 chains that came with my new saw Husqvarna 501842572

beenthere

NovaSS
The chain number you show when googled also says it is H46, which is one of several H numbers on the card for the combi gauge.
Says for 3/8"
H42, H46, H47, H48, H47S, H48S, H80, H81.

Stihl chain is just a tad wider in the straps and a very small amount of filing in the gauge slots is needed to slip down over the straps for and aft of the tooth to be sharpened.

I have a spare for a standby, but so far the original soft plastic rollers are holding up just fine. I use the 7/32" file in mine. But as I recall, it also takes the 13/64 file when the tooth gets shorter. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others


mad murdock

The most important part of sawchain sharpening, and any sharpening for that matter, is good files!! Baileys sells good ones. Proper size and shape. Simonds has a great file catalog which is a great reference guide for all American pattern files and Swiss pattern files. http://www.simondsinternational.com/publications/pubcatalogs.php
The download of the files catalog is the last one at the bottom of the page.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

turnkey

Quote from: mad murdock on November 20, 2013, 01:04:41 AM
The most important part of sawchain sharpening, and any sharpening for that matter, is good files!! Baileys sells good ones. Proper size and shape. Simonds has a great file catalog which is a great reference guide for all American pattern files and Swiss pattern files. http://www.simondsinternational.com/publications/pubcatalogs.php
The download of the files catalog is the last one at the bottom of the page.

Yes, proper files AND being willing to throw away a file when it dulls.  Sharpen a chain with a file a few times and you quickly learn when a file needs to be discarded. If one is 'leaning on the file" it is past due to be thrown away.  I do a lot of firewood 10+ cord/ yr, file my chains using a clamp on guide and buy the files by the dozen.  Go through maybe 6 files/yr.

Harry K

jdhacker

If you will just take a bit of time you will be able to use a file. And will feel you have done something when you learn what to look for. The number one thing I see is, people will cut until the saw is hardly cutting. And that is way past dull, then they will get a file out hit each tooth 3 or 4 times and think it will be sharp. But they have done a lot of damage running the saw that long. Its simple start with a sharp chain or new, feel of it and remember that. At any time it don't feel like that it's dull. Sharpen your chain with each tank of gas, unless you hit the dirt. Just get a file hold it flat, follow that angle that is there and make it feel like a new chain.
stihl 044
STIHL ms 291
Homelite XL12 for 31 years
140 husqvarna

thecfarm

Use a marker so you know where you started. Count your strokes. I add one more stroke when the motor is on the right. Sounds odd,but it keeps it cutting nice and straight.
I just bought a Timber Tuff sharpener for TSC, It's on sale for $40. It's a very cheap unit,but all metal. I saw one at Harbor Frieght,same price,all plastic. I sell firewood to a guy at work and he brought it over and showed me how it worked. If I would of brought it myself,there would of been no way that I could of figured it out. ::) I have used it 3-4 times and it does do a good job.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Southside

Thecfarm

I picked up one of those same TSC units this past spring and I love it.  Went from using an old fashioned file, to a 12V diamond rotary file I could run off the skidder to the disc type.  I can keep my angles dead on now, sharpen a chain fast, and they stay sharper longer.  The only thing I have not been able to figure out is the chain advance, not really a big deal. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

thecfarm

I pick up the dog and pull the chain through the groove,than I let the dog drop down just before the tooth and I pull the tooth against the dog and I KEEP tension on the chain and tighten up the set screw that keeps the chain from wobbling when I tilt the wheel down. Very,very important to keep tension on the chain to get it in the exact same spot each and every time. Than I pick the dog up,loosen the set screw and pull the chain thorugh the groove. It's a real cheap unit,but I do all the above in a set way,EVERY SINGLE TIME,to get the best results. As I said I have only used it 3-4 times,but feel I have a good rhythm going.
And the round part that you adjust your angle,make sure when you move it that both round parts are nested together. You should not feel a step from one half to the other. You should not be able to feel each half.This is the hardest part of the whole cheap rig. As I said,if not for the guy that I sell wood too,I would of never got it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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