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Chainsaw mills

Started by Madman_Mark, May 23, 2004, 04:48:22 AM

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Madman_Mark

What size saw is needed for a chainsaw mill when most of the logs I will be sawing are mostly spruce,fir and pine from 6"-20" in diameter ?
I figure my Husky 365 is too small.
Also, can a guy make any money sawing other peoples logs with a chainsaw mill (part time)?
What would be a fair hourly rate to charge ?

Kelvin

A good size saw would be useful for 20" wide log.  The stihl numbers would be 066 or 088, husky would be 395 or the 4 digit one.  you will only want to do this as a work of mercy for yourself.  Once you've done this for a couple of hours, no one could pay you to do it more, unless its once or twice in a great while.  There are a lot of modifications and jigs that make the process a whole lot easier, like the winch that pulls the saw through the cut.  I'd suggest buying a 12v hand held rotary sharpener to keep the teeth really sharp to limit time sucking exahust.  There are lots of posts on milling with chainsaws, so it would pay to do a search here.

Shamus

     I've been using a chainsaw mill now for about 8 months, and have milled around 10,000 board feet. Gotta have a big saw, I am using a Stihl 088 with a 36" bar. The mill produces really nice lumber, and I have managed to sell some cedar for a bit of a profit.
     But production is definitely limited. If you have to saw 4/4 or 8/4 then you will be hard pressed to mill more than 300 bd ft in a day, working solo. To make at least $150 in a day milling for someone else you would then have to charge $.50/ bd ft. If you were just milling large squares, beams, timbers, you might get up closer to 500-750 bd ft per day, but that's about it.
     To charge by the hour would probably be unfair, since any other portable mill (eg band or circle) could probably produce what a chainsaw mill does in a day in just a couple of hours. Not to mention the relatively poor recovery factor, since a chainsaw mill has such a large kerf, compared to the other mills. The most fair arrangement would be a 50/50 split of the milled wood, then the customer shouldn't get too uptight that the milling is going so slowly.
     I really like my chainsaw mill, and it is great to have around for building projects, and the occaisonal small custom order. But to make a living, especially milling other people's logs, you ought to suck it up and pay the extra moolah for the circle or band mill.
D&L Doublecut Synchro sawmill, Procut chainsaw mill, John Deere crawler loader,  F350 4x4 flatdeck, 20 ton logsplitter, running Stihls

Danny_S

I have a husky 3120xp on mine, saws good lumber. Still making some adjustments to the mill but generally the setup works well. I think I would sell it right about now because I am moving and taking on a new job where I cannot store the mill where I am going and wont be able to come home to use it much. I havent burnt a tank of fuel in it yet.





It is fully portable, inspected and registered for the road. A little paint would make it look alot better as well. It is a 22 ½' bed.

Plasma cutting at Craig Manufacturing

Madman_Mark

Looks like quite the rig Danny.
I'd be interested to know how much you want for it but I'm not convinced that I really want one yet.
I've heard a lot of negative things so far about chainsaw mills.
I'd like to hear some more opinions from anyone that's used one before.
Also is my 365 big enough to use to mill logs with a 24 inch bar ?
I know it's too small to handle the bigger logs with a longer bar but what about 20 inch diameter logs and under ?

Stan

With a 24" mill, and an appropriate sized bar, you might be able to saw 17" logs. However by slabbing off 3 of the sides you'd have a cant somewhat smaller than the log's original diameter. If you are really interested you'll need two mills one Alaskan and one mini mill to cut off the sides of the log after you've flattened the top. I played around with my Husky 51 just to try it out, and you need a bigger saw, or a whole lot of time. I've settled on an 066 for my 24" mill.
I may have been born on a turnip truck, but I didn't just fall off.

rebocardo

I have a Husky 365 that I am going to use with a 28 inch bar and ripping chain. I do have a 32 inch bar for a Stihl 066 and it does look like it might work on it, but, I doubt it will be able to pull that big of a bar especially ripping. I will let you know how it goes.

Kevin

Rebo, if the oil hole in the bar doesn't line up with the oil hole in the power head you'll burn out your bar and chain.

dmcc

Madman Mark,
 I've cut a few logs with a rig very similar to Danny's, except it used 2 powerheads. It cut a lot faster than the Alaskan (I've also used them), alot of the difference is that the Alaskan has a lot of drag when pushing it across the log or jigs compared to the mill setup with a carriage on wheels. The other advantage is the blade is parallel to the bed so setup of the log is similar to a bandmill. The disadvantage is limited log diameter (has to fit between the carriage posts) and less portability. It all depends on what you need, but neither is setup for high production. The Alaskan is great for occasional use and special projects (although some people have milled thousands of b.f. or built cabins and barns with them!), the chainsaw mill on a carriage is more labor efficient, probably really good for someone building one or two cabins and wanting to have a mill on hand that is faster than the Alaskan but not wanting to invest the money in a bigger mill. I would probably do some jobs with a carriage chainsaw mill, but not every day!
 I would think your 365 will probably do fine on the 24" Alaskan. Just keep your chain sharp and maintain your saw well with good 2 stroke oil and bar lube. Some use motor oil for the bar on chainsaw mills, but make sure you don't run it dry.
Happy sawing!
"Still looking for that one BIG log"

ksu_chainsaw

another option for smaller logs is a ripsaw bandmill attachment for the chainsaw.  it uses the chainsaw as a powerhead for a small portable bandmill.

http://www.ripsaw.com/

hope this gives u some info as to what u would like to do


charles

Danny_S

They want enough money for that attachment dont they..... Hmmmm.. wonder if I could fabricate one of dem...... ;)
Plasma cutting at Craig Manufacturing

oldsaw

I got mine to get enough for my own use.  It takes so long to really cut up some wood that, unless your doing a favor, or a split deal to get some of what your friend has got, it doesn't make a lot of sense.

I actually kind of enjoy running it, but there is a lot of PITA that goes with it.  I still enjoy watching the boards come off a log.  The attraction for me was portability.  My current cache of logs is down in the bottom of a ravine, and the only way to get them out with the wet weather we've had is one board at a time.  Two boards if Sawwood is up to it.  He's getting old though  :D so I don't want to work him too hard.  Although I think I felt older at the time.

An Alaskan is the perfect solution for an opportunist like me, who has to deal with suburban limitations on storage (wood and rig), although I'm looking for an old drafty building to stack wood in, we do have a few around.  You're gonna need more power though.  My 066 would be what I would consider bare minimum going into a 16" or larger log...if you want to get anything done.
So many trees, so little money, even less time.

Stihl 066, Husky 262, Husky 350 (warmed over), Homelite Super XL, Homelite 150A

sawwood

OldSaw speak for your self. I am not old just down the road
more then you. I did injoy the day cutting with you and may
be we can try cutting some 31" walnut log i am gitting.

 Sawwood
Norwood M4 manual mill, Solar Kiln, Woodmaster
18" planer/molder

Danny_S

So, the alaskan style mill, with a 36" bar,... they look like they could be cumbersome to run. Now, I have the 3120, does the mill keep stable on the log after you establish the first cut?  I presume they do, and all the sweat and tears everyone talks about is just pushing it through the log...?  I will probably fabricate a similar machine, just wondering if I should visit the gym for a month or two... ;)
Plasma cutting at Craig Manufacturing

Stan

The set up board that you place before making the first cut supports the saw better'n the log itself later on. The reason is you can let it hang out a foot past the end of the log and get a good clean entry and exit. I've quit standin' beside the saw except for the beginning and end of the cuts. The saw and mill are supported by the log and I stand at the far end reeling the mill towards me.  8)
I may have been born on a turnip truck, but I didn't just fall off.

Danny_S

That's a good idea, I remember you explaining that system before. That might be an option as well. I dont have much time for milling but I do need some timber for my camp so an attachment like that would do me fine.
Plasma cutting at Craig Manufacturing

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