Logs for hunt cabin

[reswire]

I'm hoping to build a hunt cabin on my property this year, and plan on milling my own logs and building it myself.  I have access to pine, and was thinking of making 6x6 beams to stack for the outside walls.  I don't have any means of "tongue and grooving" the logs, probably will just try and place some sort of insulating material between them.  I know it won't last forever, but was hoping to get 20 years or so out of it. I have heard of some good wood treatment products that keep bugs and carpenter bees out (a big problem in my area), but I don't want to make a mistake of using wood that might rot too quickly.  I do have access to white oak, but I know it takes considerably longer to dry.  Any suggestions, about the log size, or species to use?  It will only be a 16x 20 with a front porch, no plumbing or fancy woodwork.  I'm just not that great of a carpenter!

[D L Bahler]

Pine is fine, whatever your have is fine.

Species is not a major issue if you build it right. Also there are ways around the tongue and groove issue.

Keep your logs at least a foot above the dirt (set them on stones, for example) and give wide overhangs. These will keep the wood dry and the cabin will outlive you by a few generations.

As for 'tongue and groove' there are ways around this. If the logs are left round, cope the top log to sit on the bottom. If they are to be squared, then plane the mating surfaces carefully so they match tightly together. A good practice to seal the cabin fairly well is to mate the two surfaces with careful planing and then clad the inside with boards.

[SLawyer Dave]

Baileys sells a log joint shaper that is powered by a chainsaw head.  It will allow you to make the coped bottom and top to help fit your logs really tight.  From a log cabin supplier, you can also order the tar impregnated felt that is made to lay between the coped joints to reduce air infiltration.

Another option, (though electricity is generally needed), to make a nice joint that will give you both a good shear value and higher insulation value is to use a router with a 3/8" square plunge bit coming up from below your table with a fence.  If you don't have an actual router table, you can build one pretty simply out of plywood and 2x4s, and then screw the fence in place since you will be using all one dimensional logs.  Just set the fence out 3" (on center), and run the timbers over the bit leaving a 3/8" wide, 3/4" inch deep groove, bottom and top of the beam.  Then cut 1.4 inch wide strips of 3/8" marine grade plywood to use as the spline.  You don't need to use any sealant or glue, but if you choose to, make sure it is a flexible type to allow for seasonal shrinkage and expansion.  This will dramatically cut down air infiltration through the joints and help keep your log walls straighter. 

[beenthere]

I'm hoping to build a hunt cabin on my property this year, and plan on milling my own logs and building it myself.

The plan is to finish by the end of Dec. 2013 ??

[Old Forester]

Have been working with County Conservation Boards to build 12' x 18'  and 16' x 18' cabins for rental cabins for county parks.  We have used red pine and white oak 6" x 6" cants and find we prefer the white oak.  It is naturally decay resistant and much more strength than the pine. There are log cabins in the area that were built by the early settlers in the 1850's and 1860's that were constructed with white oak that are still structurally sound today and have never hand any chemical or preservative treatment.

We  build with what we know are green logs for two main reasons.  It will take 6 to 8 years or more to air dry logs, and by using green logs they are relatively straight and haven't started to  warp or twist.  We use "Log Builder" sealant/adhesive/caulk between logs and use  8 inch "Oly  Log Fasteners"/screws every 16".  Building is done to allow for a min. of 3" of log settlement in an 8" wall.  We haven't seen a need for tongue and grove milling.

My advice would be to use white oak 6" X 6", build them with green logs and allow for settling.  Be glad to share more details if you wanted.

[beenthere]

Pictures and more detail would be great.   8)

[jander3]

Build with Green Wood. Cut beams, cut dove-tails, and chink. 



 

Schroeder has many products for preserving logs and chinking:

http://www.loghelp.com/

I like Penetreat mixed with Borax from the suppermarket.

[reswire]

Thanks to everyone who answered.  I'll be starting this Feb. or March, and sounds like I will use white oak.  I appreciate all the info.  I'll build it with green lumber as suggested.  I've read that green white oak has a natural preservative similar to treated lumber.  Some sites have suggested that white oak cut in the spring when the sap is "up", will last 20 years in the ground.  I've built one small shed this way to test the theory.  Only time will tell if it is true.