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Blades for mixed hard wood on a lt 40

Started by Tim Lea, November 07, 2013, 08:16:03 AM

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Tim Lea

What blades do y'all suggest for mixed hard wood. And for soft wood?

WH_Conley

Instead of trying to keep track of a lot of different blades I just stay with the 10 degree. Everybody has their own opinion. I sharpen my own and don't really want to keep changing cams and adjusting the sharpener.
Bill

Magicman

In 12 years of sawing, I have done well with 10° blades.  SYP, Cedar, and misc. hardwoods.

I did just get a box of 4° blades to carry with me on the "Goodwill" trip and also I have a job scheduled that will be all Hickory and White Oak.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Chuck White

I have only used 10° blades and got good results.

I adjusted my sharpener to grind a couple of bands to 8° a while back when I had some big Poplar that had a lot of stress in the base of the butt log.  That worked quite well, but 10° is my mainstay!   8)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Tim Lea

Thanks everyone. That's what I've been running and thought it was found a good job. But it's always good to hear what all of u think and use. I'm going to add some pics of a few jobs I've done in the last week or two. 

 

woodmills1

good looking wack o lumber there
I always used the 10 degree on my 40
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Tim Lea

Thanks. That is popular siding 10" & 2".   

Tim Lea

 

 . This was a one of three loads of mostly Red oak sawed for a customer.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

They're right Tim. The 10° is about the best all around blade.

The only time I like a 4° is when I'm sawing dry hardwood where the slabs are 10 inches or wider
I seem to get a much smoother cut with no wave going through knots.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Dave Shepard

The lumber looks pretty DanG good from what I can see. Pretty good whack on the truck too. :)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

YellowHammer

DanG, I guess I'm always a little different.  I much prefer the 7° when sawing most of my hardwoods, especially if they have some knots.  I use 055 4° When sawing hickory or pecan, and 045 9° for poplar and other soft hardwoods.  My fastest and flattest cuts were with the 055 7° Turbo, but they are horsepower hogs.  I can push them hard, but they make my diesel grunt.  Most hardwood logs I saw are fairly decent sized, some dry, some fresh cut, 24 to 30 inches.  I guess everybody has their preference.
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Red Clay Hound

I also like the 7 degree blades.  They work well on most hardwoods and I have found that they cut straighter in knotty pine.  In my experience the 10 degree blades tend to make wavy cuts on knotty pine especially when they begin to get a little dull.  I can also cut faster with the 7's.
2007 Wood-Mizer LT40 Super Hydraulic with 51 hp. Cat; 2007 Wood-Mizer EG200 Twin Blade Edger; Woodmaster 718 Molder/Planer; Stihl MS460 and MS362 Chainsaws; 2011 John Deere 5065 with JD 553 Loader

Dave Shepard

Red Clay Hound, what width and thickness are the 7° bands you are using? I've been using 10° .055" x 1.25" in white pine. They usually work well when sharp, but if I the 7° are better in knotty wood, then I'm definitely going to try some soon.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

GDinMaine

I have sawed mostly knotty pine, spruce, hemlock and some hackmatack (larch).  Used only 7s blades and have been very happy with the result.  It really shines in pine and hackmatack, spruce knots sometimes take it for a "ride".  It does not work well in frozen wood, I use 9s for that.  As for sawing hardwood with it.  I know it really does not like to saw knotty oak for sure.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

moosehunter

I use 045,1.25 7deg on every thing. Very happy with it. Was told by Dave @ WM NE to push them hard and by many that you need the HP to push them.
"And the days that I keep my gratitude
Higher than my expectations
Well, I have really good days".    Ray Wylie Hubbard

mesquite buckeye

We started out cutting dry mesquite, which has lots of curl, crotch and knots in it. At that time you had a choice from woodmizer of a 4° or a 10°. The 10's would cut, but got smoked pretty quick and would wander in the hard spots. I had the same experience in the midwest with bur oak, hackberry and elm. Later they added the 9°, an improvement over the 10 and not so slow as the 4. When they came out with 7's, I tried one right away. I find the 7's to be the very best blade I have tried for the harder hardwoods with a really good combination of speed and smooth cut. I still use a 10° when cutting softer hardwoods like cherry, walnut, or cottonwood, but my go to blade is hands down the 7°. ;D 8) 8) 8)
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

YellowHammer

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Red Clay Hound

Quote from: Dave Shepard on November 08, 2013, 08:29:52 AM
Red Clay Hound, what width and thickness are the 7° bands you are using? I've been using 10° .055" x 1.25" in white pine. They usually work well when sharp, but if I the 7° are better in knotty wood, then I'm definitely going to try some soon.
Dave, I use the 1.25x.045" 7 deg. Wood-mizer blades.  If I could only pick one blade, that would be my choice.
2007 Wood-Mizer LT40 Super Hydraulic with 51 hp. Cat; 2007 Wood-Mizer EG200 Twin Blade Edger; Woodmaster 718 Molder/Planer; Stihl MS460 and MS362 Chainsaws; 2011 John Deere 5065 with JD 553 Loader

Tim Lea

Thanks for the feed back guys. You guys, and gals have helped me out in so many ways that I couldn't repay y'all. The things I've learned from the members from y'all's post have made life and decision so much easyer for me because I've read about it from one of the members that had already been at that cross roads. So from the bottom of my heart thank you all.

Gasawyer

I used to use 10deg and have switched to 7deg .045 1 1/2" for everything from heart pine to white oak.
Woodmizer LT-40hdd super hyd.,Lucas 618,Lucas 823dsm,Alaskian chainsaw mill 6',many chainsaws large and small,NH L555 skidsteer, Int. TD-9,JD500 backhoe, and International grapple truck.

Ga Mtn Man

Did you change your blade guide rollers?
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Gasawyer

I updated to the new high performance guide roller assembly when they came out. My mill is supposed to have the guide rollers that work with both width bands. Also I don't use 1 1/4" bands don't work well on my mill. Contrary to what WM tells you my mill hates narrow bands!
Woodmizer LT-40hdd super hyd.,Lucas 618,Lucas 823dsm,Alaskian chainsaw mill 6',many chainsaws large and small,NH L555 skidsteer, Int. TD-9,JD500 backhoe, and International grapple truck.

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