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Dolmar PS-9000

Started by Windy_Acres, October 28, 2013, 03:39:36 PM

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Windy_Acres

Hi, new here, and question for those in the "know".

I recently picked up at the sale, a PS-9000 that needs at least a piston, maybe a jug too. I bought it to replace my echo, that I can no longer find parts for.

Was wondering, do I fix it, sell it, or part it out ? The latter two would include me finding another saw to replace it. The saw appears to be in decent condition otherwise. It sounds okay when running, but I cant keep it running long enough to cut.

If I do a piston, do I hone the jug, or do you guys typically replace jug when you do the slug ?

If I do a jug and a slug, I will have another $250-300 in it, not sure if the saw is worth the repairs ? Im pretty sure it needs the carb cleaned or replaced as well. (another $30-$100 ?)

Ive only got about 110psi on the 5th pull with light oil sprayed in the cylinder. About 80psi with no oil, on the 5th pull.

Via the exhaust port, the piston looks so bad, as well the rings, that Im surprised I can still get it to run. It shuts down after about a minute or so of running WOT. It does not seize up though, so Im not sure what all is wrong with it.

Being that I picked it up second hand, so I dont know its history, but I can tell for sure it needs a piston at the minimum, otherwise it does not sound to bad running.

Ive wrench daily, but not on saws, so I was hoping for a little direction. I dont know that these saws are worth $, which is kinda what Im asking, also dont know whats involved in a piston. Im assuming I lift the jug off (hone it), change the slug and slide it back together ?

Thanks for any input, Windy.

nmurph

You need to pull the cylinder and have a look at the walls. Often there is just transfer aluminum on the cylinder wall which can be cleaned up with muriatic acid and sandpaper. You may have some scoring of the cylinder which may or may not preclude its use. Scoring above the exhaust port will affect compression, but below will not hurt anything. The important thing is to remove ALL transfer or you will ruin another piston.

There is a Meteor brand piston available for your saw. It will likely be <$50, but I don't know of a dealer that sells them. I would use a Meteor if the cylinder is useable. If not, you are going to need a P/C. You MAY be able to find a used one for that saw, but it is not a popular and the the likelyhood of finding a suitable used one is low. That leaves you with new OEM which will likely set you back $250 or so. But for a large saw, it is a minimal investment to have it running again.
You will also need to determine why the saw roasted the P/C? Was it fuel, improper tuning, an air leak?? Otherwise, you will be doing the repair a third time.

I would google Dolmar dealers in the New York state area if you want a good one.

Good luck!!!

AdkStihl

Quote from: nmurph on October 28, 2013, 04:22:32 PM
I would google Dolmar dealers in the New York state area if you want a good one.

Good bunch of guys in NYS !!


 
J.Miller Photography

Windy_Acres

Assuming the chrome is still good, do I run a hone after using the muratic and crocus cloth ? Or is my goal basically just to remove the attached aluminum ?

BTW, thanks for the input !

JohnG28

Quote from: AdkStihl on October 28, 2013, 05:33:22 PM
Quote from: nmurph on October 28, 2013, 04:22:32 PM
I would google Dolmar dealers in the New York state area if you want a good one.

Good bunch of guys in NYS !!


 

Looks like the trailer from the woodsman's field days there. ;)
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

nmurph

Quote from: Windy_Acres on October 28, 2013, 06:14:01 PM
Assuming the chrome is still good, do I run a hone after using the muratic and crocus cloth ? Or is my goal basically just to remove the attached aluminum ?

BTW, thanks for the input !

It's not chrome, it's Nikasil. I use a little 400 grit sandpaper to make sure I have everything off. I heat the cylinder, then apply the acid. When it quits boiling, I hit it with the sandpaper to expose some fresh transfer, then heat it again and reapply the acid. Be careful when applying that there are no holes in the plating. If there is, or if you get acid on the bare aluminum in the ports, it will eat into the metal quickly, bubbling the plating up, and definitely ruining a possibly salvageable cylinder.

Windy_Acres

Quote from: nmurph on October 28, 2013, 08:29:14 PM
Quote from: Windy_Acres on October 28, 2013, 06:14:01 PM
Assuming the chrome is still good, do I run a hone after using the muratic and crocus cloth ? Or is my goal basically just to remove the attached aluminum ?

BTW, thanks for the input !

It's not chrome, it's Nikasil. I use a little 400 grit sandpaper to make sure I have everything off. I heat the cylinder, then apply the acid. When it quits boiling, I hit it with the sandpaper to expose some fresh transfer, then heat it again and reapply the acid. Be careful when applying that there are no holes in the plating. If there is, or if you get acid on the bare aluminum in the ports, it will eat into the metal quickly, bubbling the plating up, and definitely ruining a possibly salvageable cylinder.

Thanks, good to know, Ive played with muratic and cast iron, have some idea of what it does. Ive not played with 2 strokes in decades, so I have some idea of what Im doing, but not really !

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