More Questions from a newbie!

[daveferner]

Hi!
   Do those chainsaw sharpening devices I see at the Fleet Farm actually work?  Perhaps one style works better than others?  Can anyone recommend a good online dealer of parts?  Preferably an upper midwest one?  And finally, is it a good idea to clean air filters in warm and soapy water?  Thanks in advance!

[thecfarm]

What's the name of the sharpening devices? What kind of saw do you have? The manual for my 372 Husky says to brush it or shake it. A more thorough cleaning of the filter is obtained by washing it in water and soap.

[daveferner]

What's the name of the sharpening devices? What kind of saw do you have? The manual for my 372 Husky says to brush it or shake it. A more thorough cleaning of the filter is obtained by washing it in water and soap.

There are maybe ten different brands/styles of sharpener.  One clips on to the chain/bar and "sharpens while working".  Another looks basicly like a dremel and the bits have those guide bars on 'em.   The saw in question is a Mcculloch PM-605.   The filter sure looks washable. Unlike the one on my Stihl, that looks like it would fall apart in water..

[thecfarm]

There been a few past threads on what works for some. I saw one on hand filing on the same page as this thread. We have a search on here. Try that too.

[Full Chisel]

C'mon, let's help a brother out.

I'm going to say stay away from the automatic sharpener that goes on the bar. That's a pretty old Promac. If the Stihl filter looks like you described, I bet the heat and age has got to it. Most of them should be washable.

Most of the things involved with saw maintenance will come naturally with time. Here's going on a limb that the bulk of hardcore cutters from real firewooders to yard apes and fallers don't use a guide when filing. A round file lasts me a real long time as the only use it gets, is to round out the teeth after grinding. I do some grinding with various wheel profiles as even after years you can always learn. My chains perform best when left with the rough surface left by the grinding wheel. It is almost like a cross hatch texture running in one direction if that makes sense. Light knurls in the cutter says it better. That grabby texture really rips hardwoods. Sometime they get cupped out smoother with a file and the D-Gauges get an occasional smoothing.

Well, Dave just get yourself some proper files for the chain in question, use the reference marks engraved on the chain as a guide , and put the edge on it. You can get to the point where you and the chain and the saw are finding a medium which always works. Can you eyeball 25/1000 clearance? With practice and a feel for the machine you can.

[tolman_paul]

I'd recomend learning to sharpen a chain with a file and guide, and make sure you also get a guide for setting the raker height.

The problem with the mototool type sharpeners is the cutters can get clogged fairly quickly and then they run hot and you'll overheat the teeth on the chain.  If you have alot of chains to sharpen and want to speed things up, then one of the swingarm type grinders will be worth the money.  They are especially good for chains that have been rocked are poorly hand filed.

[gunrac]

i've never used soap an water to clean anything on a saw. air knocks off about anything that needs cleaned. if u found out u let things get beyond that point, hit it with some brake cleaner, then hit it w/air again. always hit full choke, before taking off the cover. it only takes 1 speck of dust inside the carb. to ruin your day.

tho u have read many suggestions by now, i might as well add my 2cts.
just mount your bar solid in a vice, leave the engine on an block it up as needed to make it square. use a plain ol' hand file, make sure u get the correct 1 for your chain. just follow the hash mark on the cutter, nice even steady strokes, till file runs smooth. a small desk light will help u a bunch, cutter should look like a mirror when done.

you sound new to all this, so i would just suggest on just doing touch ups, until u get the hang of it. u shouldn't have to worry to much about rakers, by only going this route. if you think u can work back a heavily damaged chain, u will need a d-gauge to work rakers down. 

u get into any rocks or hardware, where it just won't cut at all, the cutters are rolled back quite a bit. there will be a heck of a lot of hand filing then.

still, just a suggestion, find someone w/a grinder. if u don't know his work, just ask to see some of the chains he has sharped. if u see any blue on the cutters, or the rakers are not shinny on top, go somewhere else.  keep in mind, the rakers don't have to be hit everytime, just doing a tune up, but will if working back the cutter pretty hard. get the gauge to make sure.


a bit lengthy for my first post in here, but i think i covered all the bases.

[daveferner]

Thanks for the advice yall!   Yeah, I figured that the old fashioned way would be best, but was curious about the new fangled devices. 

[chainsaw dog]

I ve got 3 cheap electric grinders 2 from hf an 1 from nt .hf ones work for  me nt one overheats halfway threw 20in.chain.anybody need about 20 various new stihl files?i ve got better things to do than sit with a file in my hand. Live better electricly!!! But i ve got 45 out of 50 ready to go.

[thecfarm]

gunrac,welcome to the forum.
Also filing a saw takes time to learn. Take your time,follow directions on the package.  :D Try to remember what you did,be it right ir wrong. You should get better at each filing.