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Planer stand & maple butcherblock countertop

Started by ancjr, October 12, 2013, 11:37:53 PM

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ancjr

I've had this planer for a while and never did like the snipe I was getting   After looking around at various sites and pictures, I came up with the following solution:



The extensions cantilever onto the table and are held in position by cleats.  Works perfectly!

Brad_bb

I have the same planer, but with the optional factory folding extensions on each side.  My question is, what causes snipe?  Even when I hold/support  the board on the outfeed side so that remains in the same plane, I still often get snipe.  Can it be eliminated?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

giant splinter

I have to hold mine up also Brad and most of the time it works for me, I have a different model with no adjustments to correct the problem.
roll with it

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

beenthere

A gouge at the end of the board when it exits the planer and is not held by a feed roller.
Usually has to do with planer adjustment and/or how the boards are supported coming out of the planer.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ancjr

Indeed, when the unsupported end of the board dips below the plane of the bed, the cutter head cuts the end of the board deeper.  I have the infeed/outfeed tables are flush withe the planer bed where they contact the planer, with a rise/run of 1/8" in 18". 

justallan1

I've never used a portable planer, but I've run miles of wood threw a small moulder making spool staves and would run a piece of scrap last to prevent snipe. Keeping everything butted up seemed to do the trick as it would hold the previous board in place.

Allan

thecfarm

So that's what that is called. I use to just call it a DanG gouge.  :D  I just have a cheapy box store planer. I do all my planing out side,so it always takes me a couple boards to get the roller stand just right.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

giant splinter

Allan,
I just tried your method, it works great and is reliable ...... I just overlap the scrap and run the two side by side right through at the same time .....         Works great thanks.
roll with it

beenthere

However, I think the leading board still needs to be supported at the end, or its weight will cause it to tip and shove the tail end up into the planer head.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ancjr

Here's a picture that demonstrates this planer can now do a great job on small gnarly pieces:



It's going to be an epic adventure making a countertop from all these pieces!

giant splinter

Without a doubt Beenthere and to compound the problem the self feed setup gets far less cooperative when trying to take off the heavier amounts of material, perhaps a more professional model is a better choice than Ryobi ..... that Dewalt should do much better than mine but now that I am using Allan's tip I am having way better luck and its way better than leaving a tail on a surfaced board just to avoid snipe.
It seems like the planer should have a roller on the outlet side with adjustable capability to guide the incoming board through the outgoing phase of the cut and they may in fact have one, the one I have is hobby oriented and its fine for what I use it for and with the tail scraps finding their way into my fireplace I am happy ;D.
My Jointer has an adjustable outfeed section and has never caused any snipe whatsoever.
roll with it

ancjr

I've also found that feeding the boards through with a slight angle  helps... placing parallel with the planer feed direction seems to exacerbate both snipe and chipping of the entire face.

beenthere

QuoteHere's a picture that demonstrates this planer can now do a great job on small gnarly pieces

Sorry, but from that blurry pic, cannot tell how well the planer does a good job. ;) 

Nice figure in the grain, however, and can see that easily.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ancjr

Apologies for the pictures... my laptop is down for the count and I'm working from a "smart phone"  :)

justallan1

I'm glad that worked for you. Someone taught that to me on a moulder and I figured it should be close to the same issue, but wasn't sure myself.

Allan

ancjr

I'm only as good at planing as I am at smart phones and posting on forums. :D

jamesamd

I usually run two pieces of sacraficial pine on both sides of a board that cannot have any snipe,about 6"
longer both in and out.If it is a really nice piece of wood,I attach the scrap with turners tape to the sides.
The box store planers just have too much clearance in the posts.That makes them adjust up & down
easily for the weaker masses.

Jim
All that is gold does not glitter,not all those that wander are lost.....

Peter Drouin

I just make the wood longer, then cut the snipe off   ;D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

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