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Gearmatic 19 internal leak

Started by TheDirt, September 23, 2013, 09:29:14 PM

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TheDirt

Just wondering if any of you who have gearmatic experience might know a common source of leaking brake fluid behind the clutch-side cover: The clutch piston will still move enough to engage but the clutch and brake bands are so contaminated that it wont draw in any real load and the brake wont hold the load once it's in. I cleaned the bands with brake kleen and it worked for a little while but the leak is apparently pretty bad and soaked everything again pretty quickly. I just can't seem to locate the source.
An old timer I visited the other day told me they always had leaks and used to just dump Diatomaceous earth or even baby powder into the clutch side to keep the bands dry. I think I might like to locate the leak before I go that route...
Thanks!

John Woodworth

There are only three things to leak, the slave cylinder, the hose and fittings and the roto seal, massive leaks means it's probably the cylinder or the hose to the cylinder. Take the side cover back off and hook up the line from the control unit to the roto hub and work the control lever and you should see where the leak is.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026, lewis winch

coxy

mine was the u cup and the tube had a grove in it   the bearings was a pain to get out of the gland  don't forget to put a new o ring on the gland  the bearings some have 1 some have 2 are 1.57  the tube is 18.00 u cup .57  at cj logging in Booneville  good luck

treeslayer2003

you prolly gonna be lookin at new bands if they got contaminated badly. the fluid can breakdown the adhesive that holds friction material to the steel band. I know ya don't want to hear this, I thought I give ya a heads up. if the winch starts winding in uncontrolled, the bands prolly came apart and its easyer to get apart if it not been forced to keep working. of course fix the leak first.

logman81

Plan on replacing both bands, I've been through this very same thing you are going through, mine was leaking out of the roto seal. I wound up drilling and taping the shaft and putting a live swivel in, no more leak! That was when I had my petitbone.
Precision Firewood & Logging

TheDirt

Thanks guys!
Looks like I have the same issue you did, coxy. it seems to be leaking alot from the "gland cap" as its called in my parts book. the bearing inside the cap is definitely shot and it looks near impossible to get out.
judging from the amount of brake fluid I wouldn't that suprised to find it leaking elsewhere. What is the roto-seal you were talking about, logman81?
This winch is on my Case 450 dozer which I use less and less now that I have the skidder. Today I pulled the injection pump to replace some seals, looks like i need to pull the charge pump too, deal with this winch issue and I just noticed that the cross piece holding the track frames is barely attached to the machine, not to mention the undercarriage work coming down the line. Alot to invest in a rig that usually gets run for free to cut-in roads or clean up jobs, I love having it but I'm starting to wonder if it makes sense...

John Woodworth

underneath the gland cap you will see a little pipewith a sealin the recess of the end of the drum shaft, that is the roto seal, standard the come with one installed but put back togethr with two, flat face of seal towards the inside, the bearing isn,t bad to get off with a puller just make sure you put all the shims back under the gland cap and a new O-ring on the roto brg.
Two Garret 21 skidders, Garret 10 skidder, 580 Case Backhoe, Mobile Dimension sawmill, 066, 046 mag, 044, 036mag, 034, 056 mag, 075, 026, lewis winch

logman81

John woodworth is correct about the roto seal, put it back together as he has said and hopefully the leak will be fixed. Mine was to far gone even with the new parts so I had to put a live swivel in it instead.
Precision Firewood & Logging

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