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Wedging/Quarter Sawing Oversized Logs?

Started by Deese, September 13, 2013, 05:09:37 PM

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Deese

My EZ Boardwalk Jr will supposably cut up to a 30" diamater log.


  

 

I believe EZland said that I will not be able to use the clamps on such a log, that I would have to "wedge" it.
I am a bit confused as to what this means...I would rather not split the log in half with a chainsaw if I can somehow fit the whole thing securely on the mill.

Can someone help me understand this?

Also, should I consider quarter sawing some of the ones that have no knots in them?

I've got about 30 of these (8'6" long).

Any help would be appreciated!
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Deese

I guess wedging the log in place simply means scotching it with wedges along the track to keep it from rolling?
That's the only thing I can think of... ???
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

fishpharmer

If you have a way to get those logs on the mill, the weight of the log will be enough to hold it down.  However the curvature will allow it to rock on the first cut.  Put some wood or plastic wedges on each side between the log and bunk to hold it steady.  When you flip it over to the flat side it won't rock and the weight should be enough to hold it until you get a cant.

Hope that makes sense?
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

fishpharmer

Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

Deese

Thanks fishpharmer. That makes perfect sense.

I realize that it will be a daunting task to quarter saw some of the best looking ones, but do you think it would be worth the effort? The fella buying them doesn't care one way or the other...so I would only consider doing a few of them...

Also, with the logs with a centered pith and no obvious signs of stress, could I just get two flat sides and then just slab them all the way down without continously turning the log?
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Jim_Rogers

I think if you did a search here on the FF you'll find all kinds of images and drawings showing you how you could quarter saw a good clear butt log.

There are many methods to do it and you can pick one that works for you.

Good luck with your project.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Deese

Thanks for the suggestion Jim. I'll keep y'all posted on how this pans out...
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

dgdrls

Deese,  vines or P.I. on those dandies??

good luck,  photos too!!

DGDrls

Nomad

     Oversize logs are a challenge, no doubt about it.  But Deese, why would you want to go out of your way to quartersaw pine?  Do you have some reason for doing that?
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

hackberry jake

30" is the max. If its not perfectly straight you will probably have to trim a little off each side with the chainsaw to get the carriage to pass. I wouldnt qsaw pine. It seems to me like pine moves more qsawn than flatsawn. You will want to keep the pith out of the majority of boards. If I were you I would square it up and then take boards off one side til u get close to the pith (center) of the log. Flip it 180* and do it again. Once you have the pith in a 3.5" thick piece, flip it 90* and start making 2x4s. Or 5.5" for 2x6s.
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

kelLOGg

Here's what you need to do. Just as others have said, four small wedges can go a LONG way in keeping a big log stable. This is a redoak I am Qsawing about the size of your pine. It just fits between the posts.  I have found that if you put the wedges in place while the squaring arms are up you can usually slide the whole assembly (log + wedges ) as a unit. Have a pry bar handy to slide the log into position so the posts pass over it. Just go slow, think it through and be careful.
Bob



 
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Deese

Quote from: dgdrls on September 13, 2013, 06:34:22 PM
Deese,  vines or P.I. on those dandies??

good luck,  photos too!!

DGDrls


Yes poison ivy. I cut the vines a few weeks ago. Dry and crispy now  ;D
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Deese

Quote from: nomad on September 13, 2013, 06:38:28 PM
     Oversize logs are a challenge, no doubt about it.  But Deese, why would you want to go out of your way to quartersaw pine?  Do you have some reason for doing that?

Well, my stepdad was an exceptional furniture maker/woodworker/home builder who loved working with heart pine lumber. He died of colon cancer about 5 years ago at the age of 43. This is a hallway table he made. It doesn't have a single piece of metal in it. All wood, and as strong and stable as any table you will ever come across...

I thought it would build a replica with quarter sawn---no knots---all straight grain parallel lengthwise with the length of the tabletop. It may be years before I build the table, but I would have the material when the right time comes along...


  

 
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Deese

If you look closely at the grain in the first pic, you will see that the top is actually 3 boards. He was really good at hiding joints.
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

fishpharmer

Deese, very nice table.  Your stepdad probably would have been honored to know you want to replicate his craftsmanship. 

Quartersawn SYP is nice looking lumber.  A few years ago I produced some with the Lucas 618 mill.   

Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

Deese

QuoteIf I were you I would square it up and then take boards off one side til u get close to the pith (center) of the log. Flip it 180* and do it again. Once you have the pith in a 3.5" thick piece, flip it 90* and start making 2x4s. Or 5.5" for 2x6s.

This is probably what I will do. Thanks Jake.

Quote from: kelLOGg on September 13, 2013, 07:10:28 PM
Here's what you need to do. Just as others have said, four small wedges can go a LONG way in keeping a big log stable. This is a redoak I am Qsawing about the size of your pine. It just fits between the posts.  I have found that if you put the wedges in place while the squaring arms are up you can usually slide the whole assembly (log + wedges ) as a unit. Have a pry bar handy to slide the log into position so the posts pass over it. Just go slow, think it through and be careful.
Bob



 

Bob, thanks for the tips. This will be quite a learning experience for me. Thanks everyone for the advice!
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Deese

Thanks fishpharmer, I plan on quarter sawing some just to see what it looks like...but not much :)
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

schmism

I didnt think pine benefited from being QS.  ie it doesn't tiger strip or produce the same effect as you get with something like oak or ash.
039 Stihl 010AV  NH TC33D FEL, with toys

customsawyer

Those are some fine logs but I would not go to the trouble of quarter sawing them. The only way I would consider it is if you need vertical grain in special joints on your table.
That table is nice also.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

kelLOGg

Deese,

Beautiful table. If you will, I would love to see pics of the underside showing details of the joinery.e.g., does the tabletop "float" to allow for different expansion rates of the top and apron with humidity?
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Ianab

There are no hard and fast rules about how you have to saw a log.

You could take that big log, wedge it in place on the mill and trim the top off. 

Then flip it 180 and trim off the other side.

Now stand the log up again (your clamps should now fit) and just saw it to the deck. A whole heap of ~24" wide boards (that the mill will cut)

You will get a few boards from the centre of the log that will basically be Q-sawn (after you rip out the heart) Plenty enough to make a VG table in the same style anyway. You don't try and Q-saw the whole log, but you get a few perfect q-sawn boards, and a heap of useful flat / rift as well.

A bit of extra edging maybe but that's no big deal?

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

hackberry jake

Ian has a good point. Even if you just saw everything flatsawn, odds atlre you still end up with some qsawn boards every once in a while.
https://www.facebook.com/TripleTreeWoodworks

EZ Boardwalk Jr. With 20hp Honda, 25' of track, and homemade setworks. 32x18 sawshed. 24x40 insulated shop. 30hp kubota with fel. 1978 Massey ferguson 230.

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

bushhog920

qs pine will crook which is worse than cuping to me. i would rather have straight boards with some cup than flat crooked ones. go flat sawn unless short boards are want you want.

Magicman

Since Pine lumber is soft compared with the Oak's, etc., when used as flooring it was very commonly QS.  That way the edge grain would wear better and be much more durable.  As stated above, you will always get some QS lumber when you flat saw, and you would not have the waste accompanied with QS.

Nice table and memories.  :)
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