Husky 385 xp won't start

[Carpenter]

My Husqvarna 385XP won't start.  This was Friday on a close to 100 degree day.  I wore myself out trying to start it.  It's always started hard first start of the day.  But, after that always starts on the first pull.  Well, anyway, with a sore shoulder and of course I was drenched in sweat and a little mad I cleaned the air filter and then checked for spark.  And I'm not getting any spark as far as I can tell. 
     I pulled the spark plug and cleaned it, it had carbed up some.  Touched the spark plug to the block and couldn't get anything.  So, I put a test light on the sparkplug wire and it wasn't lighting up.  So, I think the problem is somewhere further up the line.  I just couldn't see anything obvious.  So, I'm not sure where to look.  It's kind of hard to hold a test light in the right spot and pull the cord at the same time.  I'm a little stumped. 

[bandmiller2]

Carpy,those DanGed husky kill switches are always to be the first suspect.Modern ignition systems its tough to see a spark especially in daylight.Tested a husky 350 yesterday couldn't see any spark but it started and ran like a champ.Could also be the module,I had to replace one on my 385 twern't cheap,if you need one try Chainsawr he has some aftermarket. Frank C.

[ST Ranch]

Carpenter- This may sound a bit simple, but my experience with both my 670 Joni and 372XP Husky in the heat is plug failure. Whenever they get hard to start, I change the plug right away - fixes the problem 95% of the time.  Learnt this from a log house builder who ran saws for long periods of time in the heat. Good luck. Tom

[Dave Shepard]

I've had trouble on my 394 with the kill switch. Unplug it and see if that helps. If it does, buy two or three and keep them in stock. Sometimes the wire going to the kill switch can chafe and short out.

[AdkStihl]

If that doesn't solve the issue, then look at changing the coil  :-\

[ehp]

first change the sparkplug , believe me today lots of your higher brand name plugs are made in China and not any where near as good as the sparkplugs 10 years ago , next , plug the rewind cover off your saw and look at the coil and make sure its not covered up with crap, bar oil , whatever , if the poles on the coil got crap on them then your not going to get much spark , next check the wire from the coil to the sparkplug for cuts wear spots , if you try all this and it still will not start then I would change the coil , it should be under warranty so no big cost to you

[celliott]

I would look all the wires over real well, could be worn through in a spot and grounding out on the case. Maybe pull the coil module out, clean it up real well, reinstall and regap (business card width works). I'd try that, and what others have said to check (killswitch, new plug, etc.) before too much money at it.
I always check the cheap fixes first!

[Carpenter]

Thanks guys for the responses.  I wish I'd have read them before I took it over to the repair shop.  I wish I'd have thought to put an ohm meter on the switch.  That could be it.  My gut feeling is that parts will have to be ordered in, and I really didn't want to order them with a trial and error approach.  And, there is a Husqvarna repair shop and dealership in Springview about 30 miles away and since I had to go to Springview on other business anyway I took the saw to them. 
     It was good because I had never stopped at their shop, but, I have met some of the guys who were in there at the time.  I explained who I am and what I was doing which is cutting to length and quartering some Oak logs to quartersaw them with my sawmill.  So, I got to promote my business a little.  The repair shop was nice enough to offer to loan me a saw.  I wouldn't have been shocked if they'd have rented me a saw.  I had no idea they'd just let me use one while mines in the shop.  Small towns are nice.  He let me borrow a 362XP.  I won't be quartering any of the oak with it, but, at least I could get everything cut to length to get on the mill. 
     

[1270d]

Thanks guys for the responses.  I wish I'd have read them before I took it over to the repair shop.  I wish I'd have thought to put an ohm meter on the switch.  That could be it.  My gut feeling is that parts will have to be ordered in, and I really didn't want to order them with a trial and error approach.  And, there is a Husqvarna repair shop and dealership in Springview about 30 miles away and since I had to go to Springview on other business anyway I took the saw to them. 
     It was good because I had never stopped at their shop, but, I have met some of the guys who were in there at the time.  I explained who I am and what I was doing which is cutting to length and quartering some Oak logs to quartersaw them with my sawmill.  So, I got to promote my business a little.  The repair shop was nice enough to offer to loan me a saw.  I wouldn't have been shocked if they'd have rented me a saw.  I had no idea they'd just let me use one while mines in the shop.  Small towns are nice.  He let me borrow a 362XP.  I won't be quartering any of the oak with it, but, at least I could get everything cut to length to get on the mill. 
   

Sounds like the kind of shop that deserves more of your business

[Pullinchips]

Guys have it covered, but i would say the kill switch or the coil is bad.

The two 372's i have had the switch disabled and no wires to them, must be a problem. I do like the stihl kill better, where it just touches a wire to ground out when you shut it off, all in the same switch and its not really a switch, but a lever that moves a wire to ground when you push it down.

I think the newer huskies with the auto stop return or whatever thwy call it must be liek this.

The newer 445 i have has a stop button that is also the choke and it pushes down to stop the saw, and then springs back so you cant accidentially have it in the stop position and try and try to crank in and flood it like the older huskies with the stop switch.