electric motor for kasco

[redpowerd]

what size electric motor do i need to replace my 18 hp briggs?
moving the mill inside, and the engine is on its last leg.

the only thing i know about motors is their weight grows exponentally with height. and their reliablity decreases exponentally with altitude. (up the silo) ;D

[Fla._Deadheader]

Red, rule of thumb; 1HP electric = 3 HP gasoline.

 Several guys on here have a 10HP electric and seem to be happy with them.

[redpowerd]

so thats a three phase?
not quite positive i even have three phase out here in the woods.

heres where my head will spin-
three phase is three legs of 110?
so whats 220, two legs of 110?

also, what rpm range am i looking for, are there differnt ranges with differnt motors?

i know it will have to be run on 220, im 2000 feet off the road.

[Fla._Deadheader]

HP is HP. 3 phase is more efficient. 1 phase will do just fine. RPM should be 3450 so you can match the pulley sizes compared to the gas engine.

  You are correct on the 3 phase of 110 and single phase of 2 legs of 110. Actually, the 2 legs of 110 should actually be considered as 220 or actually, 240Volts. 110-220 is nearly low voltage. 120-240 is the voltage coming from the power pole. ;D ;D

[Furby]

I looked into this myself and you can have almost any kind of motor you want made, for a cost.
Two choices come to mind. A 1 phase, 220 volt, 10 hp or a 3 phase, 10 or more hp, with a roto phase converter.


Check this out.
Link

Here's some links from another thread.
Link #1
Link #2
Link #3
Link #4

[MP_Wall]

I am NO expert, but 3 phase is not 3 110 lines hooked in any manner. You have to get 3 phase wired from the electric company (usually for big bucks) or make a 3 phase converter with 220 single phase and an extra motor. My brother made a converter for his shop equipment which all came from a high school. If you make a converter you will need a motor that is at least 1.5 times as large as any motor you plan to run or 2 times as large as the largest amount of hp you plan on using at once (ie add all motors hp together that will be on at once).

MP Wall

[Rod]

I had Bill Turner build me a mill and I put a a 10 HP Baldor motor on it.

Its has as much power as a 24 HP gas motor.

Heres the link to the motor I used,

http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?1=1&catalog=L3711T&product=AC+Motors&family=General+Purpose%7Cvw%5FACMotors%5FGeneralPurpose

I bought my motor for $728,and it should last 25 yearsor more.

[Haytrader]

red,

My first mill was electric. It had two 5 HP motors on it.
One had a 2 groove pulley and the second motor assisted the first. They were 220 and the combined weight was not as much as a 10 HP. But the best part is they didn't cost nearly as much as one 10 HP.

Then I decided I needed to be mobile so I sold that mill and got the same mill with a 25 HP Koehler. The power was nearly the same.

[Fla._Deadheader]

MP, never said it was 3 phase hooked in any manner. :

  There are MANY configurations with 3 phase, including the right or left rotation tap connections. There are wild legs and other stuff, also.

  I tried to keep it simple with my explanation. BASICALLY, it's what I stated.

[redpowerd]

good stuff here

are the two motors both 220, or are they combined, haytrader.?i have some silo unloader motors to use, all two-phase, and i think they are 5 horse

thanks for the help, guys

[Rod]

Here is how I hooked up my motor,it's single phase.


modified by Tom from 600 pixels to 400

[slowzuki]

to the electric crowd:

How do you do your clutching?  Electric type clutch?

Some info:
120, 240 V most places have available are single phase.  The transformer at the power pole has one leg of the higher voltage, 3 phase power running to it.  240 V is the voltage accross the whole transformer, 120V is from the center tap to one of the legs.  

Many areas have 3 phase power lines but most people only have single phase entrances.  The power company will balance #'s of houses connected to each phase.  Generally this will be in banks and they will drop a phase after they finsh loading it to save wiring costs.  Look when you drive, you'll see 3 wires, 2 wires then one wire.

[Rod]

You don't need a clutch on an electric motor,you start the motor with the belt tight..If you have 3 phase they will charge you by the peak on your 3 phase meter that has a gage on it .They reset each month back to 0.

3 phase would be cheaper to use if you are planing on using a lot of eletric.

[Haytrader]

red,

Fur as I know, they were both 220;
No clutch. One simple toggle switch for on or off.
Had a spring loaded rod holding the wire up about four feet and a set up similar to a carwash overhead swivel to carry the wire.
No gas......no oil.....quiet.......
Wonder why I got rid of it?

 :

[slowzuki]

Uhm, wouldn't your blade life be much shortened?  I'm sure the neighbours would also complain about me starting a 10 hp electric repeatedly :D :D dimmmmmmm

You don't need a clutch on an electric motor,you start the motor with the belt tight..

[Rod]

Well if your neighbours complained about the starting of a 10 hp electric motor repeatedly just add a Soft Start controls for AC induction motors

http://www.baldor.com/products/ac_controls.asp

[redpowerd]

climbed up the ol' concrete vending machine to get us some stats on the motor. heres what i seen after scraping away some purple pigeon stuff......

general electric model # 5kc2158n238bu
7 1/2 HP
1730 rpm
230 volt phase 1
36.6 amps thermally protected

grease beacon 235 (thats the one i didnt understand)

will i need a motor controller to hook this thing up, like in the silo room?

thanks again for the great help, all the saw mfg websites tell nothing but the hp of the motors :

[redpowerd]

oh, and it has a large box(1'x1'x4")on the side

[Fla._Deadheader]

  That'll get ya about 21 HP, allowing for belt power transmission. Some gearing will need to be done, to keep the blade speed up.

  The box probably has the start capacitors in it.

[redpowerd]

so you think ill need a smaller pulley to adjust the rpms?
is there a calculator to the left sumwherez to help with the math?
by gearing you mean pully size, right?

21 horse will be much more fun than that 18 8)

another note, the setworks are all DC. ill need a little power converter?

[D._Frederick]

Rod,

All larger motors have only so many time per hour that you can start them without over heating if you are dropping full line voltage across them. The single phase motors will overheat the starting winding the fastest and you will end up burning this winding out. On a band mill you can not stop and start after every cut and have any motor life.

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Next thing I would do, is call Kasco. They made the mill, they must have some answers.  We can probably help with whatever they suggest.

[redpowerd]

dahhh, who likes messin with dealers? :D

they must have made them with motors, im sure they didnt use an unloader motor.
with the slow rpms, im afraid of some problems with blade speed. ill keep the clutch on it so im not killing the motor after every board.
if i thought the motor would run the mill and it was a fairly simple transformation, the thing would be torn apart in the shop tomorrow.

think she'll work ??? ??? ???

[Rod]

Thanks for the info D._Frederick


As for the 1750 RPM motor all you will have to do is put on a pulley twice the size as the one on you have on your gas motor now.

[Bruce_A]

Good morning.  I like to see what you good people are trying to build.  But went to an old school of hard knocks that taught me to use a 10000 foot per miute rim speed or band speed as a rule. Slower doesn't cut as well and over can get dangerous if your blades are not made for the higher or lower speed.