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New to sawmilling!

Started by Deese, August 14, 2013, 12:09:45 PM

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Kingcha

Welcome aboard, you will find lots of help here.    You mentioned you plan on cutting all your wood for your house.   Make sure you check with your local building department.  Where I live I cannot cut my own Structural lumber.   Wished I lived somewhere where I could.

matt
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

grweldon

I'm suspecting that rural Montgomery county, Alabama is similar to Autauga county.  You are required to pay a licensed professional to test soil percolation and design a septic system and the county will inspect it.  Power company won't put in a pole until septic is in and documented.  After that, no permits are required and no inspections take place.  You could build a house with cardboard and they will place an assessment value on it!  Pay your taxes and all will be well.

My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

EZland

Deese, congrads ont he mill.  I also have a EZ Jr. and really like it.  I ahve pushed it to the limits on the size of logs and learned tons. 

An you are right keep reading and reading.  I really lot this forum, just a bunch of guys sharing there love for sawdust. 

Here is a list of things I have learned.  Most of it by error.  lol

- 60 " logrite cant hook is a must.  two are better....ok maybe one 60 and one 48. Heck I am so impress with my logrite log cant, i might like it better than my mill.  Awesome to beable a 1600 log by yourself.
- you never can have enough stickers, I saw stickers out of every slab I discard. And have even sawn a whole log into stickers.  You never have enough dry ones when you need them. 
- I switched my mill to water lube/soap lube.  You use more, but less expensive.
- figure ways to wedge large logs, some times to they just to big and will not be able to be clamped. 
- if I was you, buy the extention at least 5 feet to saw longer lumber. It is one my list to buy......
- being that you are in the south(like me), being able to saw at night is your friend.  pile my logs in the day and saw for the night.  Much cooler. 
- have a good stack of blades on hand.  I am rotating ten right now.  I do not sharpen my own yet and I ship 4 off to sharpen at a time to a guy in North GA, Jordan Bandsaw.  He has a 3-4 day turn around. 
- if you are cutting wavey, change the blade.  if it not "that blade" you can always put it back on. 

and if you are confused about your mill, call Ed Zimmerman.  that guy is great.  There are about dozen guys on here with the EZ jr or 40.  They are great too. 

Sound like you have great start,   can't wait to see pictures. 

still learning everyday,

Ed
EZ Boardwalk Jr. 30", Husky 455, Kioti 5010 w, FEL , And I just moved to Ohio.and still looking for logs.

God is great!  I will never be as good as the "Carpenter's Son"

Furu

Welcome to the forum Deese.  Lots of good info to be found here.  Have fun with the new mill as you learn.

Deese

Thanks everyone for the advice!
I talked with Ed Zimmerman about an hour ago about the cant hooks that they make. He seems to be a very honest man that stands behind his products. I will definitely post pics of the mill once it is delivered...hopefully one day next week.

Also--I have got 7 very big, straight loblolly pines to remove at work. There is a ton of good lumber in these trees. There's at least 20' of straight trunk before the first limb on most of them. I measured the dbh on all 7 trees yesterday. They measured 25.6", 33.3", 27.7", 26.7", 34.3", 23.7", 39.7"

ED Zimmerman and I had a brief discussion about the capabilities of the Boardwalk JR, and although it says its maximum log diameter is 30", he said that it's actually designed for 24" logs and smaller. He said the key to larger logs is a good, sharp blade and move through the log SLOWLY and just listen to the motor...

So here are my questions regarding all of this:
1--The trees have to be removed. If I don't get them, someone else will. I simply cannot afford to spend any more money at the moment, and did not purchase the 5' track extension with my mill. So, my mill will only cut a 12'2" long log. Would it be a mistake to cut these trunks into 12' sections to fit my mill? Or should I cut them into 16' sections and seal the ends with anchorseal until I can purchase the track extension?

2--If I decided to cut them 16' or longer and seal the ends with anchorseal, how long would they last until wood quality is compromised? They would be kept out of the sun and rain.

3--I will somehow have to trim the logs over 30" with a chainsaw (I guess) to make them fit on my mill. I really don't want to go through the aggravation of making a chainsaw mill jig...Is there any other way to accomplish this? I guess it doesn't have to be pretty as long as it's narrow enough to fit---then I simply clean it all up with the bandsaw, right?

What would y'all do with the logs if you had my size mill? (13hp Honda)
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Deese

Here's one of our best looking black walnuts on our property.
Guessing 20"-24" dbh...


 
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Ianab

Quote1--So, my mill will only cut a 12'2" long log. Would it be a mistake to cut these trunks into 12' sections to fit my mill? Or should I cut them into 16' sections and seal the ends with anchorseal until I can purchase the track extension?

What's the intended use of the wood?

If you need 8ft studs, then trim the logs to 8'6" and saw them like that. No point cutting 12 ft boards when you need 8 ft ones. Likewise if you need 12ft boards, keeping the logs at 16 ft is pointless. You should also actually recover slightly more from 2 x 8 ft logs vs a 16 ft long as you have less taper and/or sweep to deal with. The shorter logs also simplify your log handling. Turning an oversize 16ft log is MUCH harder than an oversize 8 ft one.

Quote2--If I decided to cut them 16' or longer and seal the ends with anchorseal, how long would they last until wood quality is compromised? They would be kept out of the sun and rain.

Pine doesn't keep well in log form. It tends to stain and be attacked by bugs quickly.  I'd get it sawn and start drying it ASAP, even if it's shorter lengths.

I'd also consider the option of sacrificing a bit of the oversize butt log. I know it's a waste, but it's going to be a lot of work to saw, where lopping couple of feet off that end might get you down to the 30" that the mill can handle. Need to weigh up the time spend whittling the ends of the logs, vs the value of the wood you recover?

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

customsawyer

Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

beenthere

Do yourself a favor, and talk to the real cant hook makers.... Tamiam at Logrite.
Sponsor on the left column. ;)

Good on the pics. If that is a vine showing on that nice walnut, be a good idea to clip it off as it does the tree no good.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Deese

Hey--Thanks Ianab for your sound advice and insight! I can't say enough about this forum and how informative it can be.

QuoteWhat's the intended use of the wood?

That's a great question...and that is part of my problem LOL :-\
Oh---I'm having a vision...I'm imagining my living room interior walls made from beautiful lightly stained 1x12's  :)
No, No...now I'm thinking of big, thick exposed beams over my kitchen...

Now do you see my dilemma?  ;D
I'll probably just cut them in 8" lengths as you suggested...makes the most sense. Thanks again.
Here's a pic of one of the big pines outside my office window



 
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Delawhere Jack

Deese, that is one NICE walnut tree. All good suggestions coming in so far. One other item that helps a lot with a manual mill is using a winch to turn the logs on the mill. Not sure is EZB offers one as an accessory, or you might need to rig one up. Mounted on one side about midway along the mill. Cant hooks are a must, but having a winch also is like having an extra set of hands when running a manual mill.

I started with a manual mill with a 13HP Honda, and it will get the job done, just takes a little longer.

Welcome to the FF.

Magicman

There is really no reason to seal the ends of SYP.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Deese

Quote from: beenthere on August 15, 2013, 05:30:30 PM
Do yourself a favor, and talk to the real cant hook makers.... Tamiam at Logrite.
Sponsor on the left column. ;)

Good on the pics. If that is a vine showing on that nice walnut, be a good idea to clip it off as it does the tree no good.

Yeah I will definitely be purchasing one from one of those guys.
That vine will be cut shortly
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Deese

Quote from: Magicman on August 15, 2013, 05:59:46 PM
There is really no reason to seal the ends of SYP.

I didn't know that.
This is great stuff I tell ya!
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Magicman

Pine bleeds resin and seals itself so end check is a very rare if ever occurrence.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Deese

Thank you for the info Magic Mike....I mean MagicMan! Ha!
Hey EZland---it sure is nice to hear from someone who has personal experience with this mill...I may be bugging you with questions in the near future!
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

thecfarm

If your mill will only cut 12 feet 6 inches,not much room to spare. Much easier to cut 8 footers. It's mighty hard to move a log lengthwise on a manual mill. I have one and know that for a fact. I can cut 20 feet on my mill,so not much of a problem cutting up to 16 feet.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

WDH

LogRite cant hooks are superior to all others on the market.  You will need two cant hooks, so buy at least one LogRite.  There is a reason that they are so highly recommended. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

fishpharmer

Deese, belated welcome to FF! 8) 
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

Po-Jo

welcome deese, now the fun begins

grweldon

Quote from: Deese on August 15, 2013, 04:14:22 PM
Also--I have got 7 very big, straight loblolly pines to remove at work. There is a ton of good lumber in these trees. There's at least 20' of straight trunk before the first limb on most of them. I measured the dbh on all 7 trees yesterday. They measured 25.6", 33.3", 27.7", 26.7", 34.3", 23.7", 39.7"

So here are my questions regarding all of this:
1--The trees have to be removed. If I don't get them, someone else will. I simply cannot afford to spend any more money at the moment, and did not purchase the 5' track extension with my mill. So, my mill will only cut a 12'2" long log. Would it be a mistake to cut these trunks into 12' sections to fit my mill? Or should I cut them into 16' sections and seal the ends with anchorseal until I can purchase the track extension?


My suggestion would be to find an acquaintence in the area with a larger mill to help you mill those trees... somebody who would mill them for a split.  The first one that comes to mind is ME, but there is another guy close to you that I believe owns a Cooks MP-32.  He's on here, but I can't remember his username.  He's got a picture of a tractor rearing up as his icon.

My mill will handle a 20' log supposably, the longest I've cut are 15' (specific length for a project).  It will also supposably handle a 32" dia. log, but it will only clamp a 24" log.  I've had a log on it that measured 30" in one spot and I didn't clamp it until I had 2 flat sides milled.  it was OK.  I could probably handle the 2nd log from the largest of the trees you mention.

I am certainly not as experienced as others and IANAB is absolutely spot on in the fact that any 8' log is multiple times easier to handle and turn than a 12' or 16' log.  That being said, if you don't know what the wood will be used for at the moment, I've found that 12' long is the best all-around length to mill.  You would cut those logs 12'6" as previously recommended.

Drop me a line if you need my help.  Maybe we can work something out...
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Migal

Welcome to the forum Deese.  8)
Stihl learning and picked up my Log Master LM2 Cat 34hp 02 21 12! 230MF+ the toys that go with it! MS361 MS271 Stihl PB500 Echo 48" LogRite 16ft Bass Tracker Pro' Abua Garcia 5600 bait caster, Wood working equipment' Lake Lot never enough time! oh don't forget the fridge with ale! Loving Wife Rebeca

Deese

QuoteDrop me a line if you need my help.  Maybe we can work something out...

Thanks grweldon. I'll send you a message shortly.
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

EZland

Deese,   
I agree with everyone else about cutting log lengths cut a foot or so than finish length.  Also its hard to cut logs that are 12 foot.  Just because the mill will take, its does not mean you will get it on the mill straight.   

I have cut logs that were 29......+.....inches, but you end up doing serious chainsaw work for the mill to pass.  And you can not use the log clamps.  I wedge the log (I need to take photos next time).   

As for keeping pine.  I had some logs that came down in a tornado that I left for a year.  The ones I stripped the bark off did Ok.  They stained but were Ok.  Of course they were off the ground too and dry. 

I am learning every day too.  Keep the questions coming. 
EZ Boardwalk Jr. 30", Husky 455, Kioti 5010 w, FEL , And I just moved to Ohio.and still looking for logs.

God is great!  I will never be as good as the "Carpenter's Son"

Deese


This forum is incredibly helpful. Thanks again everyone for the advice/insight.

I'm thinking the first thing I need to do once the mill arrives and is set up--is find some standing dead pines and cut them for stickers...as I currently don't have any, and i want to start cutting/drying lumber right away.


2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

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