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In Over Our Heads, AGAIN

Started by Fla._Deadheader, May 05, 2004, 01:41:25 PM

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Fla._Deadheader

 A woman calls the shop today, looking for some wood.

  Ed meets her and shows her what we have. She leaves a deposit for a natural edge, to be sawn, Cypress Mantle. She wanted a 6" X 8" piece, like a cross tie. Ed sketched a picture of a 5" X 8" piece that will have a natural edge on the front and bottom. It also will have 2 pieces that will support the Mantle, like a cradle. ::) ;D

  While looking over the lumber, she expresses an interest in a solid wood, Cypress Table, with 2 Bench Seats. She wants a Trestle style table, 2 inches thick, with Natural edges.

  Anyone know where we can get a set of GOOD plans ???

  Is there a BEST way to join the 2 boards to make this 48" X 8' long table top ???
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Tom

The best I've heard is with either dowels or biscuits to glue the edges.  Then a 1" or 3/4"  board that connects the two sides from underneath.  It is glued and screwed to the bottom of the table top.  If you are a real woodworker you inlay this board to leave the bottom flat.  If not you just lay it across the bottom and afix it. After the top is built, you deal with the attachment of the legs.

That's an awful thick mantle. :-/ :)

Fla._Deadheader

YEP. They are just starting the house. Nice thing is, we can always "thin" the mantle ;D ;D ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Jason_WI

I have sawn a 7"x9"x 8' long black cherry mantel for a couple. I asked them if they were sure that they wanted it that big as it weighed about 400 lbs green.

You will probably want to use a waterproof glue if this is used outside. Something like liquid nails would work.

Jason
Norwood LM2000, 20HP Honda, 3 bed extentions. Norwood Edgemate edger. Gehl 4835SXT

Fla._Deadheader

  The table is to be the Dining Room Table, with a high gloss ::) ::) ::)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Larry

Glue up is simple.  Plain old Titebond with biscuits, splines, or last choice dowels to help with alignment.

The tough part is how are you going to get a glue edge on such big boards?  Without a big jointer I think I would space the two boards 3/8" apart and run a ½" router bit down the center against a straight edge.

Can't help with plans but make sure you allow for a LOT of movement for the top when you fasten it to the base.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Fla._Deadheader

  Thanks Larry. Any suggestions on how to make a "Movement" joint for the top to legs connection???
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Furby

If you are going to screw the top to the legs, just elongate the screw holes in the base, side to side. Make sure to add a washer so it will slip easier.

sawwood

Fla, go to woodsmith.com or Fine Woodworking.co. I think
i have seen plans for such a table. Sound like a nice job
for Cypress wood.

Sawwood
Norwood M4 manual mill, Solar Kiln, Woodmaster
18" planer/molder

Ianab

Harold

Movement joint for a tabletop can be something like this.
As you know the table will move in width as it's moisture varies. If it's solidly fixed bad things will happen. By fixing it using slotted holes it will allow the joins to creep and relieve the stress.
Here's a sketch to show the idea.


Hope that gives you some ideas

ian

p.s. it's a picture of what Furby has just described.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Furby

Thanks Ianab, you said it better then I did!

Fla._Deadheader

  All Y'all did good. Thanks, Guys 8) ;)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

ADfields

If you have checks in the top you can repair them with bow ties (a double dove tail cut in with a router) of a dark wood across the splits,  You can even use them in the glue joint to replace the biscuits, looks right sharp. ;)
Andy

Fla._Deadheader

 We plan on using splines for the joining of the top boards. Anyone familiar with using Gorilla Glue for thick tabletops???
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Kevin_H.

Although we have never used the poly glue on a thick table top we have used it on alot of other stuff, I think it works nice as it will expand and fill any small cracks in the glue joint.

Got my WM lt40g24, Setworks and debarker in oct. '97, been sawing part time ever since, Moving logs with a bobcat.

LeeB

The gorrilla glue will fill the gap but won't have any strength to it across the gap. If you edge join these two boards you need to get a tight joint for strength. Two 24" wide boards will like have a tendancy to cup some. Tom's suggetoin of a batton on the under side will help with this. Don't glue the batton's as this will not allow for movement. Screw them as in Ian's picture. I would not edge glue the joint either. Leave a small gap and just make a tavern style top. You could still use the spline to keep the edges lined up. Two or three butterflies across the joint would look really good too. I have also seen live edges at the joint with the battons under neath and the butterflies for decoration. LeeB
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Furby

I can't remember what they are called, but you can buy (or make) these bolts with a couple of little plates on them. You cut a slot across the joint on the underside and two cross slots for the plates. Then just tighten the nuts. It's like the butterflies, but you can tighten them as needed.
Did anybody understand that ???  ::)

Fla._Deadheader

Yep. They are used to join pieces for a countertop, among other uses. I've used them before.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

redpowerd

id like to see how theyre used to join checks

i can see the clamping, but not cutting them out
NO FARMERS -- NO FOOD
northern adirondak yankee farmer

Fla._Deadheader

  The clamp that Furby is referring to is simply a bolt and nut. It has 2 "bars" (washers with 2 sides cut off) that fit down into a routered cut out, on the underside of a countertop or tabletop. Imagine a cutout that looks very similar to a milk-bone, dog biscuit. Put the 2 "bars" into the wide parts of the cutout, on the ends, and the bolt lays into the long, joining part of the cutout. Hold the bolt head and tighten the nut.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Grawulf


shopteacher

FDH: I'd drill through the two boards, counterbore the entrance holes, put 3/8" all thread through, nuts on the end, cap the counterbores.
Proud owner of a LT40HDSE25, Corley Circle mill, JD 450C, JD 8875, MF 1240E
Tilt Bed Truck  and well equipted wood shop.

Fla._Deadheader

  Too much work  ::) ::)  Did that building a Red Cedar Front Door on our house in Ar.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

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