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Bandsaw mill plans?

Started by irishcountry, August 02, 2013, 12:55:26 PM

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irishcountry

  Just wondering if anyone has a opinion on where a good set of plans can be bought for a small manual "hobby" type bandsaw mill ?  I would imagine 4 post design would be stronger ?  Ok thanks

fishpharmer

The "Bill Rake" plans are pretty good, although they are for a 2 post design.  Unfortunately, I don't think they are still available.  Canmot speak for any others.  If you find some maybe you can post a link and folks will give their opinion.
Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

york

Go on you-tube and search for Texas Ben- also he has plans @E-bay...
Albert

irishcountry

  ah forgot about the Rake site !! I'd stumbled onto that one before !! Thanks ..  I'll check out youtube and ebay also thank you very much ! 

bandmiller2

Irish,find a local mill have a good look at it and take pictures and measurements. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

irishcountry

  Thanks bandmiller .  I looked up Texasben5's stuff great looking sturdy mill but maybe just a bit more complicated than what I had in mind .  I like the idea of using tires for the bands and things locally available at say tractor supply ect.  I suppose the place to start is the size of band and trying to figure out spacing of the wheels for it ??  Thinking (and yes feel bad its not American) of this for a engine ---http://www.harborfreight.com/engines-generators/gas-engines/420cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-certified-for-california-69736.html

Berggie

I purchased plans from Linn Lumber and slightly modified a few things. Great plans, very detailed only had a couple holes not located on plans.
Home built/modified Linn 1900, Dolmar saw, farmall H with loader. Log rite.

irishcountry

  Thank you i'll check that out as well !

barbender

 My opinion on the subject- I had a mill built from the Rake plans, and while it was workable, it left a lot to be desired. Using rubber tires works fine, getting the blade to track right is finicky and so is getting your blade tension. Part of the problem is that rubber tires squish under tension from the band, and grow in diameter when you spin them up to speed, so if you have it tracking at idle speed, often times it's out of adjustment when wound up to full speed. The steel "tube in a tube" that the head slides on is prone to problems, the backstops are too flimsy, and the roller guide system flexed too much to provide adequate down pressure to the blade. Most of that stuff could be improved on after building, however with the head design I wouldn't use the steel tube in a tube (if this makes sense) I like the 2 post design over the 4 post, but take a look at a Woodmizer LT15, they use a 2 post that they call "semi-cantilever". The head is supported by the one post, the other post is for it to run on the track system instead of the single rail that other WM mills use. They use the same basic head design on LT28 and LT35 mills that are full cantilever.  I'm having a hard time describing the concept, but suffice it to say that I would use the Rake head design , except I would mount the head to the mast differently, bolted on and using nylon pads for the head to slide on. Rake's design, you can't even disassemble the head it's all welded together. I had mine bind many times, I'd have to beat it with a sledge to get it to move. Hope this helps rather than confusing the issue.
Too many irons in the fire

Fla._Deadheader


I have to comment on barbenders info. I think he stated the problems with tracking without realizing it.

We built with trailer tires, and, had "0" problems with them. Blade tracking never is a problem. He stated the tube in tube and not so string frame, and, THAT is where the tracking problem comes in. Our blade is tensioned with a long bolt, and once tightened to "specs", tracking never changes.

We have sawn harder wood that most ever will, and wider than most ever will, and, had "0" problems with tracking.

My suggestions. Use a STURDY frame work. We used 6" "C" channel for the crossmember of the sawhead. We used 2" X 4" box tube for the 2 down legs that hold the trailer wheels. make the Sawhead heavy duty.

We used a 1" square solid bar, for the adjustable blade guide, which we made movable with a 12V motor.

We used a worm drive boat trailer winch above the sawhead for raising-lowering, and hung it on the BALANCE point of the sawhead, with a double run of cable. makes the head move at a perfect speed to set the blade for near exact board thicknesses.

We built the WM style cantilever head design. It is simply an oversized WM LT40, electric-hydraulic mill.

I am about to start a totally new mill project down here for processing smaller logs, and, will build a multi head operation set up, using Motorcycle Alloy wheels and other stuff I need shipped down from Florida. I am also about to mount a band mill sawhead on my Swingblade mill, for a dual action mill.  ;) :)  This head also uses car wheels and tires.

ANYTHING you might think is good enough, over build it a little. You will NOT regret it.  Scrounge for used steel and motors, etc., and build what you want. Any questions, PM me.  ;D

Get a WM catalog in the mail and look it over REAL good. THEN, decide what size, type mill you want. Their LT15 is a great design. Just change a few things and Bob's yer uncle.  ;D :D :D

 
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Timberline

I would definately go with a Linn Lumber if you want a 4 post.  I am building a 190A and I am very happy with the design so far.  The plans are $35 and then you can get a DVD of how to assemble one.  The cost of the DVD is refunded with any purchase, even a blade.  The owner/designer of the mill gives you free phone support as well.  You can see pictures of my 190A build in my gallery.  Feel free to ask any questions.

barbender

Deadheader, I don't think I described clearly the way mine worked. The tube in a tube was the way the whole head moved up on the mast. The head was plenty sturdy as far as tracking was concerned, it used a heavy steel hinge that cambered the idle wheel. If I remember right, your mill used trailer house tires? Mine used tires for a boat trailer, and they definitly deflected, even at 70 psi.
Too many irons in the fire

barbender

And I'd agree with Deadheader, study that LT15 and let it inspire you to build your own version with junkyard parts ;) I think the 2 post design is simpler than the 4 post, that's the way I'd go FWIW.
Too many irons in the fire

Fla._Deadheader


Barbender, we used 13" 4 ply trailer tires, not boat trailer stuff. Mobile home tires and wheels for the towing package.  What RPM's did you wind up with ?? We had 60 MPH rated RPM's at 5200 RPM's, I believe ?  Tires should not deflect at those speeds ???

In fact, we ran the drive wheel and the idler wheel at speed with no blade and peeled the 2 tread ribs on each side of the center rib for a little clearance for the blade. Tires did nor grow but MAYBE just a tad. We had attached a sharpened file to the frame as a chisel type tool for the shaving of the ribs.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

irishcountry

  Awesome information guys thank you VERY much !! I'll do some looking around to see what materials may be availble locally .

Ga Mtn Man

FF member roghair from the Netherlands did some really nice work on his homemade sawmill.  Here's the link to his photo gallery:

https://forestryforum.com/gallery/index.php?cat=31167
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

WmFritz

Quote from: Timberline on August 04, 2013, 06:54:53 PM
I would definately go with a Linn Lumber if you want a 4 post.  I am building a 190A and I am very happy with the design so far.  The plans are $35 and then you can get a DVD of how to assemble one.  The cost of the DVD is refunded with any purchase, even a blade.  The owner/designer of the mill gives you free phone support as well.  You can see pictures of my 190A build in my gallery.  Feel free to ask any questions.

This was the route I took to build mine too. Same model also.

The only issue I have with making my own bandmill is it may never be completely done. :D    I built 20' of rail to give me capability to mill 16.5' logs. When I get time I want to add another 10' so I can mill longer beams. Also, the manual lift head is slow and gets old quick. A power lift is on my must have list. And then, hydraulic clamps and log turner would speed up the sawing for me.

Since I only saw for myself, I can wait to get all my modifications in due time. The only luxury is the electric start I added to the 16 hp engine I bought. As is, all manual, it saws lumber just fine.
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

scor440

Here are plans for anyone.I built this mill with sheaves not tires.Works good for me.

Hilltop366

Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on August 05, 2013, 07:50:47 AM

Barbender, we used 13" 4 ply trailer tires, not boat trailer stuff. Mobile home tires and wheels for the towing package.  What RPM's did you wind up with ?? We had 60 MPH rated RPM's at 5200 RPM's, I believe ?  Tires should not deflect at those speeds ???

In fact, we ran the drive wheel and the idler wheel at speed with no blade and peeled the 2 tread ribs on each side of the center rib for a little clearance for the blade. Tires did nor grow but MAYBE just a tad. We had attached a sharpened file to the frame as a chisel type tool for the shaving of the ribs.

Fla._Deadheader Wondering what you mean by "no boat trailer stuff".

Also was wondering if car or trailer tires were used is a spring used on the blade tension or is it not required?

scor440

Was just wondering if anyone started to build the Rake design plans I posted?

valley ranch

Greetings, I have built the tower and am at the point where I need to install the engine and wheels { I choose pulleys with Vbelts }.  I was planing to use 3" square tube with a 2 1/2" tube inside for the moveable side, with a plate and two pillow blocks to hold the shaft. I want to be able to adjust the caster and camber, not sure yet how I'll do that.

I have a 18hp Kholer that has been setting here waiting, haven't tried to start it yet.

Richard

5quarter

welcome to the jungle Valley Ranch. Glad to have you. you'll get a lot of support here as many members have built their own saws. Look forward to seeing/reading about your progress.
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

valley ranch

Greetings, Thanks for the welcome. I'll try to post a photo or two.

I'll be back, I'm going to read: how to post pictures.

Richard

valley ranch

Well, I'm ether not allowed to upload pictures or I'm doing something wrong. I'll try again later.

I look forward to talking this over with guys who have built or are building their bandmills. Talk to you later.

Richard

beenthere

Pics, if they are on your computer in .jpg format, should load easy, as long as you have you a gallery set up under your profile.

Go to this "Behind the Forum" link and it will carefully walk you through. No real heavy task, but a few details.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,61788.0.html
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

fishpharmer

Valley Ranch, welcome to FF.  There are several ways to accomplish castor and camber adjustment.  I used a "dual plane" hinged contraption on my moveable side.  The drive shaft side has pillow block bearings bolted to slotted bases. It took some shimming and sliding to get it adjusted correctly.

I am guessing your building to the Rake plans? 

Look forward to the pics...

Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

valley ranch

It comes up: Error there is no album where you are allowed to post a picture.

valley ranch


valley ranch

Darn ! It's a two post mill with pulleys. I'll have to have wifey help with pictures.

valley ranch

 

  

 


OK, I built this a while back, I just found I had this, Kholer 18, up on the hill. What I did here was from a picture on Diybandmill. I liked this type over the 4 posters.

Richard

valley ranch

I've looked around the forum but have seen no clear photos of an install of band wheels. Maybe I just don't know how to navigate the site yet. When people ask a question there are lots of answers but few pictures. Like I've said, I'll look around more.  I started the engine yesterday, sounds good. Thanks
Richard

beenthere

Quote from: valley ranch on October 14, 2013, 01:40:26 PM
Darn ! It's a two post mill with pulleys. I'll have to have wifey help with pictures.

Well, looks like ya did good on the pics. Glad to see that.  8)
Knew ya could..  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

WmFritz

I'll try to get some photos of my band wheel axle mounts tomorrow.
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

WmFritz

Will these help?

The first two pictures show an adjusting bolt on each pillow block on the drive wheel.


 
 

  

Here is the inside view of the drive pulley.


  

This pic shows the idler wheel. I only used one adjuster on this side.


 


After I got the wheels running true with the band, I haven't had to touch any of the adjustments.
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

valley ranch

Thanks, I'll study these and see if I can visualize how to apply it to my tower. I installed one side, fixed side, pillow blocks and shaft. but I'm not happy with it, don't think it will be easy to adjust.

Did  you make you mill? Does the square tubing go all the way across the mill tower to the other side, to where the other wheel is attached? Thanks again.

Richard

WmFritz

Richard, I made my mill. The wheel assemblies are set on two 2" tubes. On the idler side, there are two 2 1/2 tubes that slide on the end for the band tensioner. There are two pillow blocks on each end.  I should've taken more pictures while I was assembling but I was rushing a bit.  :-\

I'll try to load the few I have that may show better detail.
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

WmFritz

Here's my carriage in primer. The two tubes painted orange are for the wheel assembly.

 

Just under the c-channel you can make out the tensioner bolt.


 

Idler wheel


 

Drive wheel


 

Idler wheel


 
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

valley ranch

Thanks, having these pictures will help. I'm stalled right now, I'll look over the pictures and such available to me and see if I can get things and myself together. Are those pulleys or bandwheel?
Thankyou Richard


fishpharmer

Here's a few more pics of a different design...drive side below



idler side pre paint, later modified.


Super high tech tensioning system...


improved castor/camber pictures








Hope that gives you some other ideas, shoot me a pm if you need some more pics.


Built my own band mill with the help of Forestry Forum. 
Lucas 618 with 50" slabber
WoodmizerLT-40 Super Hydraulic
Deere 5065E mfwd w/553 loader

The reason a lot of people do not recognize opportunity is because it usually goes around wearing overalls looking like hard work. --Tom A. Edison

WmFritz

 link=topic=68170.msg1045039#msg1045039 date=1381939771]
Are those pulleys or bandwheel?

[/quote]

http://linnlumber.com/page17.html


I used the 19" bandwheels and 14" pulley.
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

valley ranch

For the band wheel attachment I had planned to use, no photo just now, a single 3"X 3" tube with plate welded on the drive side with pillow blocks, on the adjustable side a single 3"X 3" X 1/4" tubing with 2 1/2" square inside, with a plate welded vertically on which the pillow blocks would be bolted. I figured on the first adjustment shimming and tilting the pillow blocks would do the trick.  I have this material ready to use.  I'm now thinking over if this would require me to adjust each time I change the blade. Hope you can picture this from my description.

Now I'm wondering if I should use two, 2" square tubes as many have done. Have you seen mills with a single ram on the adjustable side?



Richard

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