Bandsaw mill plans?

irishcountry · August 02, 2013, 12:55:26 PM

Just wondering if anyone has a opinion on where a good set of plans can be bought for a small manual "hobby" type bandsaw mill ? I would imagine 4 post design would be stronger ? Ok thanks

fishpharmer · August 02, 2013, 01:02:11 PM

The "Bill Rake" plans are pretty good, although they are for a 2 post design. Unfortunately, I don't think they are still available. Canmot speak for any others. If you find some maybe you can post a link and folks will give their opinion.

york · August 02, 2013, 01:34:21 PM

Go on you-tube and search for Texas Ben- also he has plans @E-bay...

irishcountry · August 02, 2013, 02:27:21 PM

ah forgot about the Rake site !! I'd stumbled onto that one before !! Thanks .. I'll check out youtube and ebay also thank you very much !

bandmiller2 · August 02, 2013, 08:34:42 PM

Irish,find a local mill have a good look at it and take pictures and measurements. Frank C.

irishcountry · August 02, 2013, 08:59:17 PM

Thanks bandmiller . I looked up Texasben5's stuff great looking sturdy mill but maybe just a bit more complicated than what I had in mind . I like the idea of using tires for the bands and things locally available at say tractor supply ect. I suppose the place to start is the size of band and trying to figure out spacing of the wheels for it ?? Thinking (and yes feel bad its not American) of this for a engine ---http://www.harborfreight.com/engines-generators/gas-engines/420cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-certified-for-california-69736.html

Berggie · August 03, 2013, 10:35:42 PM

I purchased plans from Linn Lumber and slightly modified a few things. Great plans, very detailed only had a couple holes not located on plans.

irishcountry · August 04, 2013, 09:44:58 AM

Thank you i'll check that out as well !

barbender · August 04, 2013, 11:42:54 AM

My opinion on the subject- I had a mill built from the Rake plans, and while it was workable, it left a lot to be desired. Using rubber tires works fine, getting the blade to track right is finicky and so is getting your blade tension. Part of the problem is that rubber tires squish under tension from the band, and grow in diameter when you spin them up to speed, so if you have it tracking at idle speed, often times it's out of adjustment when wound up to full speed. The steel "tube in a tube" that the head slides on is prone to problems, the backstops are too flimsy, and the roller guide system flexed too much to provide adequate down pressure to the blade. Most of that stuff could be improved on after building, however with the head design I wouldn't use the steel tube in a tube (if this makes sense) I like the 2 post design over the 4 post, but take a look at a Woodmizer LT15, they use a 2 post that they call "semi-cantilever". The head is supported by the one post, the other post is for it to run on the track system instead of the single rail that other WM mills use. They use the same basic head design on LT28 and LT35 mills that are full cantilever. I'm having a hard time describing the concept, but suffice it to say that I would use the Rake head design , except I would mount the head to the mast differently, bolted on and using nylon pads for the head to slide on. Rake's design, you can't even disassemble the head it's all welded together. I had mine bind many times, I'd have to beat it with a sledge to get it to move. Hope this helps rather than confusing the issue.

Fla._Deadheader · August 04, 2013, 12:12:55 PM

I have to comment on barbenders info. I think he stated the problems with tracking without realizing it.

We built with trailer tires, and, had "0" problems with them. Blade tracking never is a problem. He stated the tube in tube and not so string frame, and, THAT is where the tracking problem comes in. Our blade is tensioned with a long bolt, and once tightened to "specs", tracking never changes.

We have sawn harder wood that most ever will, and wider than most ever will, and, had "0" problems with tracking.

My suggestions. Use a STURDY frame work. We used 6" "C" channel for the crossmember of the sawhead. We used 2" X 4" box tube for the 2 down legs that hold the trailer wheels. make the Sawhead heavy duty.

We used a 1" square solid bar, for the adjustable blade guide, which we made movable with a 12V motor.

We used a worm drive boat trailer winch above the sawhead for raising-lowering, and hung it on the BALANCE point of the sawhead, with a double run of cable. makes the head move at a perfect speed to set the blade for near exact board thicknesses.

We built the WM style cantilever head design. It is simply an oversized WM LT40, electric-hydraulic mill.

I am about to start a totally new mill project down here for processing smaller logs, and, will build a multi head operation set up, using Motorcycle Alloy wheels and other stuff I need shipped down from Florida. I am also about to mount a band mill sawhead on my Swingblade mill, for a dual action mill. ;)

This head also uses car wheels and tires.

ANYTHING you might think is good enough, over build it a little. You will NOT regret it. Scrounge for used steel and motors, etc., and build what you want. Any questions, PM me. ;D

Get a WM catalog in the mail and look it over REAL good. THEN, decide what size, type mill you want. Their LT15 is a great design. Just change a few things and Bob's yer uncle. ;D :D :D

Timberline · August 04, 2013, 06:54:53 PM

I would definately go with a Linn Lumber if you want a 4 post. I am building a 190A and I am very happy with the design so far. The plans are $35 and then you can get a DVD of how to assemble one. The cost of the DVD is refunded with any purchase, even a blade. The owner/designer of the mill gives you free phone support as well. You can see pictures of my 190A build in my gallery. Feel free to ask any questions.

barbender · August 04, 2013, 08:26:25 PM

Deadheader, I don't think I described clearly the way mine worked. The tube in a tube was the way the whole head moved up on the mast. The head was plenty sturdy as far as tracking was concerned, it used a heavy steel hinge that cambered the idle wheel. If I remember right, your mill used trailer house tires? Mine used tires for a boat trailer, and they definitly deflected, even at 70 psi.

barbender · August 04, 2013, 11:38:56 PM

And I'd agree with Deadheader, study that LT15 and let it inspire you to build your own version with junkyard parts ;) I think the 2 post design is simpler than the 4 post, that's the way I'd go FWIW.

Fla._Deadheader · August 05, 2013, 07:50:47 AM

Barbender, we used 13" 4 ply trailer tires, not boat trailer stuff. Mobile home tires and wheels for the towing package. What RPM's did you wind up with ?? We had 60 MPH rated RPM's at 5200 RPM's, I believe ? Tires should not deflect at those speeds ???

In fact, we ran the drive wheel and the idler wheel at speed with no blade and peeled the 2 tread ribs on each side of the center rib for a little clearance for the blade. Tires did nor grow but MAYBE just a tad. We had attached a sharpened file to the frame as a chisel type tool for the shaving of the ribs.

irishcountry · August 05, 2013, 12:06:55 PM

Awesome information guys thank you VERY much !! I'll do some looking around to see what materials may be availble locally .

Ga Mtn Man · August 07, 2013, 08:13:58 PM

FF member roghair from the Netherlands did some really nice work on his homemade sawmill. Here's the link to his photo gallery:

https://forestryforum.com/gallery/index.php?cat=31167

WmFritz · August 07, 2013, 09:19:02 PM

Quote from: Timberline on August 04, 2013, 06:54:53 PM
I would definately go with a Linn Lumber if you want a 4 post. I am building a 190A and I am very happy with the design so far. The plans are $35 and then you can get a DVD of how to assemble one. The cost of the DVD is refunded with any purchase, even a blade. The owner/designer of the mill gives you free phone support as well. You can see pictures of my 190A build in my gallery. Feel free to ask any questions.

This was the route I took to build mine too. Same model also.

The only issue I have with making my own bandmill is it may never be completely done. :D I built 20' of rail to give me capability to mill 16.5' logs. When I get time I want to add another 10' so I can mill longer beams. Also, the manual lift head is slow and gets old quick. A power lift is on my must have list. And then, hydraulic clamps and log turner would speed up the sawing for me.

Since I only saw for myself, I can wait to get all my modifications in due time. The only luxury is the electric start I added to the 16 hp engine I bought. As is, all manual, it saws lumber just fine.

scor440 · September 05, 2013, 07:45:49 PM

Here are plans for anyone.I built this mill with sheaves not tires.Works good for me.

Hilltop366 · September 06, 2013, 07:09:46 AM

Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on August 05, 2013, 07:50:47 AM

Barbender, we used 13" 4 ply trailer tires, not boat trailer stuff. Mobile home tires and wheels for the towing package. What RPM's did you wind up with ?? We had 60 MPH rated RPM's at 5200 RPM's, I believe ? Tires should not deflect at those speeds ???

In fact, we ran the drive wheel and the idler wheel at speed with no blade and peeled the 2 tread ribs on each side of the center rib for a little clearance for the blade. Tires did nor grow but MAYBE just a tad. We had attached a sharpened file to the frame as a chisel type tool for the shaving of the ribs.

Fla._Deadheader Wondering what you mean by "no boat trailer stuff".

Also was wondering if car or trailer tires were used is a spring used on the blade tension or is it not required?

scor440 · September 30, 2013, 07:30:40 PM

Was just wondering if anyone started to build the Rake design plans I posted?

valley ranch · October 11, 2013, 07:40:20 PM

Greetings, I have built the tower and am at the point where I need to install the engine and wheels { I choose pulleys with Vbelts }. I was planing to use 3" square tube with a 2 1/2" tube inside for the moveable side, with a plate and two pillow blocks to hold the shaft. I want to be able to adjust the caster and camber, not sure yet how I'll do that.

I have a 18hp Kholer that has been setting here waiting, haven't tried to start it yet.

Richard

5quarter · October 12, 2013, 12:02:07 AM

welcome to the jungle Valley Ranch. Glad to have you. you'll get a lot of support here as many members have built their own saws. Look forward to seeing/reading about your progress.

valley ranch · October 12, 2013, 06:40:10 PM

Greetings, Thanks for the welcome. I'll try to post a photo or two.

I'll be back, I'm going to read: how to post pictures.

Richard

valley ranch · October 12, 2013, 06:53:28 PM

Well, I'm ether not allowed to upload pictures or I'm doing something wrong. I'll try again later.

I look forward to talking this over with guys who have built or are building their bandmills. Talk to you later.

Richard

beenthere · October 12, 2013, 07:25:44 PM

Pics, if they are on your computer in .jpg format, should load easy, as long as you have you a gallery set up under your profile.

Go to this "Behind the Forum" link and it will carefully walk you through. No real heavy task, but a few details.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,61788.0.html