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The solar kiln begins

Started by Kingcha, July 15, 2013, 01:35:11 PM

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Kingcha

I got a good start on my Solar kiln

One of the beams

 
floor framing 

 

 
The cutting table

 
The decking down and the back wall built

  

 
Thank you for the help tractor 

 
and a big thanks for the better half

  

  

We built the front wall and installed two 2x4 supports and called it good for the day.   We don't like full sun and its getting hot here today.  Tomorrow we should a 2x10 & a 3-1/4x10 and the front wall up and hopefully test fit a roof joist

Matt
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

thecfarm

That looks good. Not that it matters,what kind of wood are you using?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Planman1954

Good job! Keep the progress pictures coming. This is why I love the forum.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 / Solar Dry Kiln /1943 Ford 9n tractor

Kingcha

So far its all red pine lumber. All milled by the wife and I off the property. :)
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

Andy White

Matt
Are you patterning your kiln from Piney, or your own design? It's looking really good. I will be starting mine in a few days, so keep the pictures and descriptions coming. I love to see a plan come together.              Andy
Learning by day, aching by night, but loving every minute of it!! Running HM126 Woodland Mill, Stihl MS290, Homemade Log Arch, JD 5103/FEL and complete woodshop of American Delta tools.

Kingcha

Andy I am not sure who's design I am using.   I am sorta just winging it.  I have been reading and looking at many different designs.   Once I get the whole frame up I will then finish the design.  Its not the best approach to building but I enjoy doing it this way.   I do not plan a sealed unit like piney's.  I do not want the added cost of a dehumidifier.   I hope to run my fans off solar eventually.   I am also not concerned about drying time all that much.
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

Planman1954

Just a reminder...I found 3 dehumidifiers within a span of about a month at flea markets. People get rid of them after they finish needing them. They are EASY to find. Mine cost 5 bucks and 10 bucks! You'll need one.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 / Solar Dry Kiln /1943 Ford 9n tractor

Kingcha

I might have to experiment with using one Planman.  One ? though, I thought they consumed a lot a electricity.   I am hoping to run my fans off of solar.
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

Kingcha

Well it was a short day as the heat index it about as hot as it ever get up north.  Got a little done.  Found a mistake I had made which actually worked out in my favor.   

I also changed the plans some as I could see or envision the kiln working.   I have a 2nd beam that will give  support to my roof joist.   I lowered it about 10-12 inches which will allow me to place my fans in a better location( I hope).  I will just have to install a small support at each joist connecting it to the beam.

a few more photos

  

  

  

 
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

Planman1954

Good job on the kiln. Keep the photos coming. Others will benefit from your thread. Since I run an extension cord to my kiln from my house, I don't have an accurate way of knowing the electricity usage of the dehumidifier. It can't be much more than a small window ac unit, and since I run it only about a week at a time for a load, I didn't notice any spike in my bill.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 / Solar Dry Kiln /1943 Ford 9n tractor

Kingcha

I finished the joists/rafters I was actually short 3 so I had to fire up the mill. :)
Too hot to get much done but I managed to get a few hours in this morning.   You will see my one mistake in the first pic.  I forgot I was going 24" on center from the MIDDLE.  Not to worried as there will not be to much load on them, plus once I nail up my wall purlins that will beef it up some.

 
I also go my supports all in for my joists/rafters

 
A shot from the back.  I think it will work out well for my fans.  I think I will got smaller fans and just install more of them.   I will need to figure out how much air flow I need.   Any thoughts?????  14'x7'x8' high

 

taking a few days off and hopefully the heat index is down by Saturday.  I have the two sidewalls and the wall purlins to do then I will installing the interior plywood.
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

WmFritz

Nice and solid looking kiln.
I couldn't tell from the pictures... curious about insulation under the floor. Also, what angle did you go with on your solar panel?   smiley_sun
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

Kingcha

I did not put insulation under the floor.  I plan to put down a 2nd floor with rigid insulation and 2x2's covered by some 1/4" hardboard sheets I have and then seal it.  At first I was going to skip putting in floor insulation as I do not plan on using this year round.   Any thoughts on that????

I went with 45 degrees.

I just found some 10" fans.  They are actually radiator fans.  I  think they will work good.  I just need to figure how many I need.
matt
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

Planman1954

I would just put some roofing felt over the floor and then the 1/4" material you have on hand. Heat rises and would be escaping upward, not downward. I think we are majoring on a minor, but whatever you do, it will work. Just make it sealed on the bottom some way so heated air cannot escape. As far as the 10" fans, I don't know. I have  two 24" fans in mine to move a LOT of air through the stacks. I got them at lowes for about $35 each. They have steel blades as pineywoods recommends.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 / Solar Dry Kiln /1943 Ford 9n tractor

pineywoods

Kiln build looks good, just keep on building and taking pics. The full width doors are a real backsaver. Fans and air flow. Not critical at all. Believe it or not you will get some flow through the lumber stack with NO FANS. The roof glazing and black metal on the bottom of the rafters form a convective chimney. Hot air in this channel will rise drawing air through the stack, assuming there is a decent baffle around the stack. We found this out when the fans melted, but drying still occured, although slower. I highly recommend  installing a small cheap room de-humidifier. The current draw won't be much more than the fans. without it, you will have to vent the hot wet air to the outside every day when the sun goes down. Otherwise that moisture will condense on the underside of the glazing at night and rain down on your lumber. Not unusual to have that small de-humidifier collect a gallon of water per night out of 500 bd ft of lumber. Above all, experiment, that's how we learn...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Kingcha

Thanks Piney.   One of my issues is I do not have power close by.   I can run my 2 long extension cords but will get a bit of amperage lost, that said I will have to be on the lookout for a cheap dehumidifier.    I am glad to here air flow is to critical.    I look forward to experimenting.  I do plan on both upper and lower vents.

matt
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

Kingcha

Got a little more done on the kiln.   I actually had to mill more wood.   I have all the nailers for the siding done.   I have a solid top roof 3/4 done, it will end up being shingled.



  

  

  

  

  

 
I test fit the clear panels today, not sure they are right for this project but hopefully they will work out.       

Next thing is to buy some black stain, caulk and insulation.   I already have the plywood for the inside wall and the flooring.   

I have yet to work on the door design, that will come after the above is all done.

First load in the kiln will be the siding for the kiln......that I think I had better think about cutting soon.
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

beenthere

Kingcha
Your construction is looking good, and appears to be fitting up nicely.
Anxious to see how it progresses from here... and how it dries the first load before the siding is on. Or is that the point, the siding will dry in place? ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Kingcha

Thanks Beenthere, I am hoping that the interior plywood and some of the  insulation board that will be in place will be enough to let the building heat up enough to dry a small load of siding for the kiln.

matt

Hey what thickness would you all cut your siding??  It will be out of Red pine 6 or 8" wide.
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Don't forget the plastic vapor barrier on the inside
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Kingcha

Gene should I put the plastic vapor barrier between the studs and the plywood?????   or should a I just seal the wood real good.   I am thinking on the inside wall and flooring of using something like you would use on a travel  trailer roof.    My first thoughts was if I hand plastic on the studs and then put a 2nd barrier on the outside of the wall it woud not be good for my wood wall.
a Wood-mizer LT15 10hp Electric, 45hp Kioti tractor, electric smoker, wood-fired brick oven & yes a custom built Solar Kiln

Planman1954

Typically in construction, a vapor barrior is applied on the OUTSIDE of the structure underneath the siding (styrofoam, felt, etc.) in order to prevent moisture from penetrating the wall. Then an insulation with an interior vapor barrier (paper or foil) is used. This combination of barriers creates a vapor pentration point (dewpoint) within the wall that works well. I remember from classes that if the wrong material combo is used, moisture can condense in the wall and problems result.
I've seen houses destroyed by mold when plastic was used underneath the gypsum board on the INTERIOR side of a stud wall. I would not do that.
Norwood Lumbermate 2000 / Solar Dry Kiln /1943 Ford 9n tractor

isawlogs

 I have never seen a vapour barrier put on the outside of a house, always on the inside, a tyveck house wrap ( breathable barrier ) was put on the outside.
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

beenthere

Vapor barrier should be on the warm side of the insulation.
Problem arises that now AC for cooling will reverse the side of the insulation that is warm... like in the south.
But here in the north, as isawlogs says, it is on the inside because of the winter/cold.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

isawlogs

 Never thought of those southern boys, so do you actualy put the vapour barrier on the outside of a house in the south ???
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

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