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stihl 075 advice

Started by ethanbrush, July 07, 2013, 07:26:34 PM

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ethanbrush

Looking for some advice on an 076 I purchased.  I noticed right away that the compression was low and comp release did nothing. Turns out the screw was missing that plugs the comp release  machining access hole.  Fixed that now its better but still not as good as my 075 which is really hard to pull over. If I pull the 075 slowly I have to exert a lot of force and or give it some time to leak some of the pressure while with the 076 it takes much less force and only a few seconds to get to tdc. Put the comp tester on both and the strangely read the same 145 and both take about the same number of pulls to build..  The cylinder on the 076 looks soso. No significant scoring but highly polished in a few spots.  Other than the compression the saw is very clean many parts painted. New coil crank seals and other parts.  I paid a premium 650 for the saw.  I filed a dispute with ebay and won so I can return for refund but I dont really want to deal with gettting another one and want to get milling.  But also now paranoid about the other work done to the saw and if done correctly seeing as the seller didnt notice that screw was missing and resultant low compression.  what do you think? Thanks for any thoughts or advice
Timber Harvester 30HTD25
Stihl 075 w/ Sperber 36" CSM
Husky 550XP
Uniforest 45M
New Holland TC-45

beenthere

ethan
I'm confused as to what is happening. But maybe others can sort it out and give you some good advice.

For starters, what was the dispute with ebay? 
Edit: Only wondered if the low compression was the reason. Not interested in anything else. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Al_Smith

Well firstly an 075 or 076 is more of a collectors saw than anything .Now they have lugging power but they are dated just like my big McCulloch 125's .

In my opinion if you get into collectors antique saws and expect to get a pristene runner you need to relook what it is you are bidding on . Besides that  this or any other forum is not the place to air flea bay disputes .  ;)

ethanbrush

Thanks for the replies guys.  Maybe my  op was a little confusing. Ill try to clarify.  I am just wondering if some of you who know these saws can comment on whether based on my description if you think the saw as adequate compression to perform well. Should I just cut something with it and see how it runs? How would you all proof out a used saw for compression and power? am a bit confused on the compression readings being the same but one being much harder to pull.  I have the option to return the saw that's all.  I am aware these are older saws but there are desirable for milling due to their lower rpm and higher torque. I already have a very good 075 but want another for the other end of the old sperber mill.
Timber Harvester 30HTD25
Stihl 075 w/ Sperber 36" CSM
Husky 550XP
Uniforest 45M
New Holland TC-45

Al_Smith

I don't want to confuse you but it goes like this .When you pull a saw over to take compression readings that is termed "static" compression.Once the engines is running it becomes dynamic compression which could be 20 to 30 pounds more .

This is due to several factors .One being the rings seal better under power than just being pulled over at a relatively slow speed .

Two you are dealing with a situation called trapped compression.The compression can basically "leak off "from a slowly closed exhaust port.It's a factor of time and area .At speed it simpley traps more of it .145 PSI is not that bad .

Don't get confused those folks talking 180 plus pressure .Those saws have been doctored on to get that high .

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