Cut My First Log This Week

[plaindriver]

I finally got the new mill set up, the supports built and anchored. First victim was a 10' x 12" wht oak. I thought it was fairly straight log, but man, those subtle curves really make a diff when sawing! Oh, well, Im learning. Since I just retired, I have forever to get it right.


 
I cut the slabs off all 4 sides, and was left with roughly an 8x8 cant.


 
But, it wasnt all that "true". Had some waves, and was not symmetrical at all. Diff dimensions on all sides, and this end is wider or thicker than that end, etc.
But I kept cutting & learning.
Ended up with 7 or so planks, each about an inch thick, some 8" wide, then I turned the cant, and did some 5" planks for a picture frame.


 
I was left with a cant roughly 5"x8", and not at all straight or true dimensionally. 

 
Today, the rain continues; its relentless.


 

Im bored, so I head to the barn to occupy self. I am trying to cipher out how to cut at least sorta straight. So I try to true up this original disaster.
It leaves me with a beam, about 2.1" x 4". Loading the first log was a challenge, so I attempted to make some loading ramps. I make a template out of cardboard, and trace it on the beam and start cutting. (Used chop saw, and radial arm saw)
Here is what I came up with. Havent tried them yet.


 
They are about 36" long. The slope is about 16°


 
Because of configuration of barn, its about impossible to use the tractor FEL to set a log on the mill. I can use the tractor to get the logs nose in the barn, then use the FEL to push it to the side of mill. Then I will try to load it using my new 48" Logrite cant hook and some help from the wife. Meanwhile, I used some of the original 8" planks for shelving in the barn. I kinda like to have an organized workspace.

I have to reevaluate my whack of logs, as I look at them differently after cutting my first victim/
Some are too skinny to be worthwhile, some have too many crotches and are very 'unstraight'. And its so wet, I fear the tractor will be swimming in the mud. I just gotta wait for the weather to improve some.I hear last yr was a severe drought in this region. What a diff a yr makes.

 

[Jim_Rogers]

I don't know how much your tractor can lift but you can try end loading them like this:



 

That way you can leave your mill in the barn and carry one in and set it on the mill or on the floor and then roll it up your ramps.
Be careful if the log gets away from you before you get to the top of the ramp and it doesn't "run you down"....

Jim Rogers

[thecfarm]

The first log!! I was wondering could you saw a few 4X4 and run some threaded rod through them. Don't tighten the rods,just use them to keep the 4X4 together. Get the height you need that way. After a while they will really dry and be light. Just remove when you are done sawing to have the room back.
Jim has a good idea, But can the mill support a "hit" from a log? I looked at other smaller mills and I can see me hitting it. Time to re-line.

[bandmiller2]

Your mill would be the perfect place for a railroad.Makeup a carriage,could even be wood,riding on "Vee" wheels and angle iron.Extend it from the mill to outside and have the carriage the same hight as your mill bed.Use the tractor to load the log outside  roll it beside the mill, roll on mill.Slabs and scrap can be loaded on the carriage for the return trip outside,same with lumber or timbers. Frank C.

[plaindriver]

I don't know how much your tractor can lift but you can try end loading them like this:



 

That way you can leave your mill in the barn and carry one in and set it on the mill or on the floor and then roll it up your ramps.
Be careful if the log gets away from you before you get to the top of the ramp and it doesn't "run you down"....

Jim Rogers

Thanks, Jim. I think my FEL maxes out around 11-1200#. + the angle in your pic seems to exaggerate the load. Here is what Ive done in the past, but again, I dont think I could heft anything more than say a 12" by 10' offering.  I think Im a hurtin till I can get a roof over my proposed workshop.


 

[Andy White]

Mark
I don't know how much room you have from the end of your mill to the end of the slab at your door, but you may be able to use something like this.

  

 
You could possibly load then turn arch around in the inside of the shop. Your sawing is looking good. Just a few adjustments and you should be cutting square in no time.       Andy

[plaindriver]

Mark
I don't know how much room you have from the end of your mill to the end of the slab at your door, but you may be able to use something like this.

  

 
You could possibly load then turn arch around in the inside of the shop. Your sawing is looking good. Just a few adjustments and you should be cutting square in no time.       Andy

What can you heft with that rig, Andy? Looks sweet. I might could use something like that but I would still have to get the log to the barn. Too much uneven and saturated dirt betw my whack piles and the barn. The concrete pad in the barn is 10' wide & 40 deep. Mill is set to the rear so I can still use the pkg space in front of it, and can still access the two side bays, tho they are just dirt.

[Andy White]

Mark
The log in the picture is a red oak 12"-4" long and 25" at the large end. Probably about 2400# or so. The 3000# winch and snatch block hardly even strained to lift. The most important thing is the belly chain to suspend the log so the weight is off the cable when transporting the log.

[dboyt]

Congratulations on getting the mill set up and cutting your first log.  It takes everyone a while to work out the kinks and figure out what's a sawlog and what's firewood.  I like the track idea for loading the mill, and have thought about using something like that.  Of course, you still have to remove the slabs & boards off the end of the mill.  I bet you have a roller table for that by this time next year.

[two-legged-sawmill]

Congratulations Mark, Nice job of setting up, looks great.
Maybe a little adjustment on your band guides, or blade tension.  With the sandy soil some may get into the bark, it
takes very little of it to take the edge off some of the teeth!
A lot of us would not show our first log, you done a good job.  Your garden looks like mine, too much water.  Dan

[cutterboy]

First victim was a 10' x 12" wht oak. I thought it was fairly straight log, but man, those subtle curves really make a diff when sawing!

I know what you mean. The log looks straight until you get it on the mill and then it looks like a banana with one end bigger than the other. Figuring out how to saw it is all part of the fun.
btw, you have a nice setup, looks good.

[bandmiller2]

Pilgrims that bring you a load of logs to cut don't realize how much you loose on a swayback log.If there a decent sort I try to educate them what makes an impression is to have them stand at one end and we stretch a string along the log.I'd be a rich old phart if I could just invent a log straightner. Frank C.

[woodman58]

Hey Jim Rogers, You should be able to put the end of the log in the bucket, tilt the bucket back and raise it up. This would eliminate the use of a chain and the risk of hitting your backhoe.

[Jim_Rogers]

Hey Jim Rogers, You should be able to put the end of the log in the bucket, tilt the bucket back and raise it up. This would eliminate the use of a chain and the risk of hitting your backhoe.

Thanks for your advice. I may try it.

Jim Rogers

[beenthere]

Jim
Doing that with the log in the bucket may remove the upward bend of the lower edge (at least in the photo it looks bent up a small bit) but then it may just put a lower bend it it that will be annoying to you.
Be cautious with that method, and you might want to lay in something across the bucket edge to help support the load.

[customsawyer]

Plaindriver good job on setting up your mill. The rest of it will come to you as you make the mistakes.  ;)