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Letter and DVD from CB

Started by stumper, June 08, 2013, 08:04:45 AM

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stumper

I received a letter with and instruction sheet and a DVD from CB this week.  It explains how to check the inlet elbow. 

I must say I am very glad I have this forum as a resource.  I would likely have been very upset with my boiler if I waited for CB to provide solutions to problems.  Thanks everyone.

Richard PM

In their defense, the wood gasification boiler industry had a set of rules rammed down their throats before anyone had the time to really feild test their units,that being said I think that most manufacturers are doing what they can to resolve the issues with the new boilers but it will take time and patience,what we as manufactureres need is open lines of communication with the customers and the customer needs to listen carefully to suggestions from the factory. I have seen first hand problems created by the customer themselves and then the blame somehow almost always gets put onto the unit itself. We all need to work together to solve the problems in the industry and stop with the blame game. KUDO"S to my competition for first admitting a problem and second for having the decency to attempt to fix it. Richard @ PM

doctorb

Thanks for stepping up Richard.  The unresolved issue, taking into account the decription in your post regarding not having the time to field test units, is whether or not manufacturers will repair/replace problems associated with design issues.  I think you are correct.  Nonoptimal designs are being improved, and operator error along with design issues may lead to significant problems.  So both the end user and the manufacturer must improve and communication is the key.  The most difficult problems are centered in the very early gasification units, and programs to correct or replace those units need to be emphasized. 

As a satisfied owner of a CB unit, I would opine that your statements regarding communication between user and manufacturer are made more difficult by the business model often utilized.  I have a responsive dealer who has taken care of my needs well.  Others here do not, and they have been frustrated.  Lack of direct involvement of the manufactureer with sometimes catastrophic failures of these OWB's has created a culture of mistrust.  And that should end. 

Thank you again for your enlightening post, and I mean it,.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Roger2561

Quote from: stumper on June 08, 2013, 08:04:45 AM
I received a letter with and instruction sheet and a DVD from CB this week.  It explains how to check the inlet elbow. 

I must say I am very glad I have this forum as a resource.  I would likely have been very upset with my boiler if I waited for CB to provide solutions to problems.  Thanks everyone.

I received mine in the mail a few days ago.  I read the letter first explaining the need to inspect and clean the elbows if necessary.  I've been doing that every other month from the start.  The guy who delivered and installed mine showed me what to do and what to watch for.  But, at least CB is mindful that a problem exists and has shared with us what to do.  Roger
Roger

AsaG

While cleaning the elbows, I would recommend inspecting the inlet caps and connecting nut/bolt/lock washer.  The primary has a tendency to, for all intents and purposes, dissolve due to exposure to the acid laden condensation during idle.  The fastener(s) usually show substantial pitting damage before the cap corrodes through. By the time the fasteners are damaged enough to loosen, the cap is severely corroded and is only about ¼ it's original thickness. The air charge inlets don't degrade nearly as quickly as the primary.  To address this issue, CB is now making the caps out of stainless steel and using stainless steel connecting hardware.  If yours show damage, the replacement parts should last much longer.

Ohiowood

AsaG
how do you get the replacement parts?

AsaG

Quote from: Ohiowood on June 08, 2013, 10:47:48 PM
AsaG
how do you get the replacement parts?

They were changed on my new stove. I've had many conversations with CB's technical folks over the last 12-18 months so these changes weren't a total surprise.  I plan to order the updated parts for the new owner of my E2400 and will post part numbers when I find them.  Your dealer should have no problem getting the parts.

Roger2561

Quote from: AsaG on June 09, 2013, 05:41:58 PM
Quote from: Ohiowood on June 08, 2013, 10:47:48 PM
AsaG
how do you get the replacement parts?

They were changed on my new stove. I've had many conversations with CB's technical folks over the last 12-18 months so these changes weren't a total surprise.  I plan to order the updated parts for the new owner of my E2400 and will post part numbers when I find them.  Your dealer should have no problem getting the parts.

AsaG - That gives me an idea.  I have a plasma cutter and some 1/4 inch flat stock laying around (more like it's in the way).  I'll use the old cap as a template. cut a few extra, drill the holes for the bolts on my milling machine and purchase the stainless hardware for when the old decide to fail, I can simply swap them out.  Down time should no more the time it takes loosen a couple of nuts, drop out the old and insert the new; a few minutes perhaps.  Thanks for shaking the dust off my brain.  Roger 
Roger

AsaG

Quote from: Roger2561 on June 09, 2013, 06:10:51 PM
Quote from: AsaG on June 09, 2013, 05:41:58 PM
Quote from: Ohiowood on June 08, 2013, 10:47:48 PM
AsaG
how do you get the replacement parts?

They were changed on my new stove. I've had many conversations with CB's technical folks over the last 12-18 months so these changes weren't a total surprise.  I plan to order the updated parts for the new owner of my E2400 and will post part numbers when I find them.  Your dealer should have no problem getting the parts.

AsaG - That gives me an idea.  I have a plasma cutter and some 1/4 inch flat stock laying around (more like it's in the way).  I'll use the old cap as a template. cut a few extra, drill the holes for the bolts on my milling machine and purchase the stainless hardware for when the old decide to fail, I can simply swap them out.  Down time should no more the time it takes loosen a couple of nuts, drop out the old and insert the new; a few minutes perhaps.  Thanks for shaking the dust off my brain.  Roger

Should work like a charm.  I found I had a problem when I had a full firebox and a fire out alarm when it was -10°F. Upon troubleshooting, I found the main air solenoid pulled in and the cap still sitting on the elbow.  The nut was basically gone and the bolt wasn't far behind.  When had the whole mess on the bench, I noticed the state of erosion on the plate.  I happened to have some 14 gauge stainless sheet laying around so I made "liners" for the bottom of the plates and used stainless hardware to put it all back together.  Never had another problem and all looked shiny and clean when I sold the 2400.  Now that CB has an "official" fix and the new owner is a good friend of mine, I'll get the real deal and put them in.  If it were still mine, I wouldn't give my solution a second thought.  ;) 

superwd6

Already had my inlet 90 replaced under warrany (part) . Heads up though is to make sure your round cap is centered and balanced flat or it may close crooked and stick open as mine did. Shut unit down after heating pool and the next morning my 2 foot stack of wood inside of the boiler was gone and temp read 213*F  :o. Steam was rolling from the top but hasn't hurt a thing ;D

superwd6

Got my package today as well. Very impressed with the DVD sent out completly covering boiler operation 8).Furnace companys send you NOTHING and don't care unless it's a Safety issue. Central boiler is the best.Search out Lennox Complete heats if you think CB has design issues :D

sam-tip

Got my package the other day also.  I replaced my elbow a year ago after first seasons use.  Took it off during spring cleaning.  More like it fell off into my hands.  The new elbow came with a spring connected to the cover.  Works better.  Only 30% gone in one season now.   Currently replacing the charge tube.  The old one is bent like a banana.  Also ordered refractory that sits under charge tube.  So I have it when I need to replace it.   But only got half of it.  It is a two peice refractory.  E3200  (May 2011 build) 

I was amazed the video wanted owners to use a wire wheel to clean the inside of the boiler to bare metal.  The example was cleaner than new.  To check all the welds for corrosion.  What's up with that?  Leaks?   Are we going to have to clean it spotless and take pictures to cover a warranty?
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Farmerjw

Wow, makes me glad my 18-20 year old CB is going strong (knock on wood).  Had thought about updating to maybe get in on better/less wood consumption, but this sound ridiculous compared to my throwing wood in and closing the door on my old unit and forgetting about it.  Oh, I burn mine year round to keep hot water in the house, cleaning a boiler, what's that?
Premier Bovine Scatologist

stumper

Guess I will have to watch the video.  I want to see how they say to clean the main fire box, particularly the back of the fire box.  I have been wondering how to do so safely, as it is a confined space and I lack the air quality monitoring to stick my head and body into a confined space.  They must show how to do it safely, they must have solved the issues when they clean and or weld one.  Otherwise they would have issues with OSHA and the lawyers will have a field day is someone gets hurt.

boilerman101

I got video too. Looked like some good tips for new and even us old owners. Probably advising "perfect world" cleaning, but I don't plan on wire wheeling mine either. I do scrape mine down with an ice scraper, vacuum out and use some new oil to wipe down box with though. Always have on both my traditional and gasser units. Never had a problem. My guess is most owners don't even do 20% of the recommended maintenance so even more is better than none.

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