C5d steering pins and bushings how do you get them out?

logman81 · June 05, 2013, 08:52:50 AM

Ok I have decided to replace the the pins and bushings on ends of the steering cylinder. My question is how to get the bolt out of the front pin? There doesn't seem to be a way to get a wrench on the bottom nut to remove the bolt. And how do you get the old bushing out by a press?

Mark K · June 05, 2013, 08:58:14 PM

On my C7D there was a hole on the outside of the frame. Put a socket and a long extension to reach the nut. If I remember correct we pressed our old ones out and new ones in. Used a hone to get the final fit.

240b · June 05, 2013, 10:08:14 PM

Isn't there an oval plate under the step? remove plate insert arm to elbow an blindly mess with nut until hydraulic fluid is run down to your arm pit. thats my experience, no seriously. The old bushing will most likey fall out. if the new one is easy to press in red lock tite might help, if you can push it in by hand- probably time for a rebush or line bore. A good session with the steam cleaner would be a good thing before you start in case you need to use a torch also

logman81 · June 06, 2013, 11:20:17 AM

Thanks guys no oval plate, I wound up taking the floor pan off a blindly with a wrench found the nut. Not easy to do but was able to get the bolt out. Found that the self aligning bushing is in ok shape but going to replace it any way, I can't get it out by hand so it will need to be pressed out that's a good thing! The problem is the pin and the ears on the frame. Frame holes are about five mm larger then the pin and a little out of round by about two mm. Thinking I might clean it real good take measurements and try those expanding pins. Has any one used them? Seems like the solution to my problem.

240b · June 06, 2013, 04:08:59 PM

I saw them used on e 528 cat I was around, seemed like an ok solution for an older machine.

logman81 · June 06, 2013, 04:44:04 PM

Yes I think so but the holes in the frame ears are a little oblong and bured a little so not sure if they will work, may have to get them line bored if they can even be done that way.

240b · June 06, 2013, 07:28:06 PM

It will be cheaper to cut the old "ears" out, have a machine shop make up new ones, and hire a welder to put them in..

bushmechanic · June 06, 2013, 07:53:08 PM

Yes they can be line bored and that's the best way to do it. Another option is a weldment. You will have to torch cut out the hole and weld in the new weldment,it's a more crude method but it works well if done right (not too sloppy of a cut with the torch). Timberjack used too sell them for their machines but I'm not sure about Tree Farmer/Franklin, you may need a machine shop to fabricate one for you.

logman81 · June 07, 2013, 08:41:04 AM

Ok thanks, I found a local guy that does the line boring I'll give him a call and get a price.

logman81 · June 10, 2013, 09:01:50 AM

So I called the number and the guy told me he got out of the business, but has done it hundreds of times just my luck! So now I'm on the hunt to try and fined a guy that does it that is close to my area? Trying to keep the cost to a minimum by finding one close to my area. Not easy!

logman81 · June 10, 2013, 12:18:00 PM

Do you think a heavy duty plasma cutter with a steady hand could cut out the holes for new weld in bushings? I think the plasma would be a smother cut and be more accurate. Probly cheaper then line boring and faster.

mad murdock · June 10, 2013, 12:35:45 PM

Quote from: logman81 on June 10, 2013, 12:18:00 PM
Do you think a heavy duty plasma cutter with a steady hand could cut out the holes for new weld in bushings? I think the plasma would be a smother cut and be more accurate. Probly cheaper then line boring and faster.

that is quite a subjective question. It depends on the ability of the operator, and the plasma machine in question. I think it would be a bit difficult to get 2 pieces exactly the same, unless you fashioned a jig with which to cut them out.

logman81 · June 10, 2013, 12:46:22 PM

Yeah guess your right probly just going to have to keep searching for a line borer. Thinking out loud!

logman81 · June 10, 2013, 07:04:55 PM

I talked to a friend of mine that had a grapple line bored by Milton cat. Very expensive! He figures around $ 1500+ ouch! So I'm putting it back together and running it for a bit and decide what to do with it. It need other repairs besides that will cost more than what the machine is worth!

mad murdock · June 10, 2013, 07:19:41 PM

How big of a "fork" is the fitting? You could make one off the machine, that way you could have it drilled and reamed to fit the new pin off the machine, then tack it in place on the machine and weld it. Would not be that hard to do. Rather than having it "line-bored". Just thinking out loud.

logman81 · June 10, 2013, 08:06:26 PM

Can't do that, but what about using a magnetic drill press and a annular drill and bore the hole bigger for a Dom sleeve and weld the sleeves in for the new pins. I think it would work if I take my time a jig it up good.

bushmechanic · June 10, 2013, 08:17:13 PM

Does that machine have self aligning bushings or just inserts?

logman81 · June 10, 2013, 08:31:54 PM

Self aligning in the cylinder ends

logman81 · June 11, 2013, 07:34:20 AM

I think that it could be done this way as it doesn't matter if your off by a few thousands the bushings self align any way. I just need to fined the new pins and bushings.

mad murdock · June 11, 2013, 12:20:41 PM

sure sounds like it could work that way LM81. Probably easier than any of the other methods discussed so far.

logman81 · June 11, 2013, 02:27:08 PM

Yup I think so, I'm going to give it a try. I got a price for the pins and bushings less than a hundred bucks. Most expensive thing is the annular cutter. Think I can do the whole project for around $400, a lot cheaper then boring!

logman81 · June 13, 2013, 07:47:29 PM

order the new pins and bushings today, should have them next week some time.

Also went and bought a bunch of high strength degreaser, not going anywhere near it with a welder or anything that makes sparks until I get all the old dirt and old grease off :D

David-L · June 14, 2013, 06:54:40 AM

logman81,
Those magnetic drill presses can be tough to set up in tight spots. We used them in the Navy and were a tuff go. I still think torches and welmount kits are the way to approach this. Clean the pans of oil and have some fire protection on hand. The idea of making new ears sounds good too. Good luck.

David-l

logman81 · June 14, 2013, 07:35:11 AM

I here what your saying David-L, I'm going to fabricate and weld platforms on the ears for the drill to sit on. It is not all that cramped on my machine pretty easy to get to. I'm all going to re pin all the linkage's while I'm in there to good time to do it. Yes cleaning the pans is a must, learned my lesson on my last skidder I had! I see your selling your timber jack.