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Finish on maple serving boards

Started by Klicker, May 21, 2013, 01:34:05 PM

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Klicker

I made and sold 20 maple serving boards 4 x 16 inches by 1 1/4 thick to a local restaurant.  The boards were sanded to 220 and finished with a beeswax and mineral oil paste which is what I use on all my food-use products.  The customer says the coating comes off easily and some of them are "losing their smooth finish."  I haven't seen them yet and will not see them until Saturday when I am in the city for market day.  I don't know for sure how often they are washing them and with what.  They are using straight mineral oil on them.  The boards themselves were very dry and stable and they have not said anything about the wood cracking.  I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for improving the finish or is it just a matter of wear in the restaurant environment.  I've never had any complaints from customers who bought them for household use.
2006 LT 40 HD

PC-Urban-Sawyer

I'll bet that they're sending them through the dishwasher system. I don't think there's a good answer to your problem...

Hopefully somebody more optimistic (sp?) and knowledgeable will be along to help in a little while.

Herb

mesquite buckeye

My cutting boards tend to have the grain raise after a few washings. I wonder if a little light resanding and oiling would fix it.

But running wood through an industrial dishwasher seems a bit incompatible.
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Axe Handle Hound

I've made, sold and given away a large number of cutting boards and have done my best to get completely out of that market because of this very reason.  People have expectations for them that aren't compatible with the nature of the material used to build them.  They're used to plastic, glass, and other composites that wear differently.  If you used beeswax and mineral oil there shouldn't be any protective coating coming off.  If they mean that the boards are drying out then I'd suspect they're washing with soap and water all the time.  If they do that they'll forever be fighting to keep the boards from drying.   I doubt they're sending them through the dishwasher.   If they did the call you received would be to tell you they all fell into pieces.  Most dishwashers get hotter than the temperature that most woodworking glues are rated to withstand and as a result, the joints all fail.  When I do make a board now I first saturate it with thinned out polyurethane to seal up the fibers of the wood and then put on a layer of beeswax-mineral oil just as you did, but that only works on end grain up type cutting boards.  The other issue I've had and I suspect you may as well is that people want to use a bread knife or a cheap serrated edge knife on a wooden cutting board.  Serrated edge knives are more saws than they are knives and you can really put a hurting on a piece of wood with one.  I tell all my customers to avoid them whenever possible, but to be careful if they do use one. 

beenthere

I'd suggest, as Mesquite did, to re-oil the boards and use wet/dry 400 grit sandpaper in the oil to smooth the fibers of the wood that appear (sounds like) are sticking up making it a fuzzy surface. May be from knife cuts too, and the sandpaper with the oil should cut them back and give a smooth surface again.
Just gathering from what has been said.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Klicker

Thanks to everyone for your comments so far.  I should make it more clear these are serving boards, not cutting boards.  They are 1 1/4 inch thick boards with one live edge, no glue involved.  They serve appetizers on them.  I am suspecting something involving the cleaning process.  I can't imagine they are putting them through the dishwasher.  The customer is also the chef/owner who is in the kitchen every night.  We gave him some of our beeswax/mineral oil paste.
2006 LT 40 HD

Jim_Rogers

You may have to provide "Care and cleaning" instructions, so that they all understand how to do both.....

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Jay C. White Cloud

Hey Klicker,

Lets start with something that is super important for all wooden kitchen products!!
QuoteYou may have to provide "Care and cleaning" instructions, so that they all understand how to do both.....Jim Rogers
I can't stress this one enough, and Jim took it as his first comment.  You must provide care instructions with all you wooden kitchenware; it can really protect you from problems with folks.

Now before I get into some "does and don'ts" for wooden kitchenware.  Let me validate that I have been part of some pretty fancy kitchen items in the $30k cost range, have a brother and sister in law that are both 5 star chefs, (and he's a woodworker), and have taken care of a number of commercial kitchens and Abattoir (both their knives and wood kitchenware.)  Use the following as you choose.

Does and Don'ts.

1.  Provide care instructions and recommendations.  Cleaning is best done with regular warm tap water>>> absolutely NO soap<<< for general clean up and then a little vinegar and/or lemon juice as an astringent/bactericide.  Wipe down with the finest grade Olive oil they have, till the surface feels dry to the touch>>>not oily. (If the surface is not going to be use for a while and is looking dull, they can re-apply a little tung oil and citrus solvent at their discretion, and let dry for 48 hours. More on this later.)

2.  Do not recommend dish washing your kitchen woodware. (they will break this rule every time so see #3.)

3.  Design and build with joinery whenever possible, no metal fasteners (if you must>>>use stainless steel.)  If you joint and use glues, use dishwasher safe adhesives.  Now there are a few (very expensive) adhesives that will openly condone an adhesive that will work under the extremes of a dishwasher, but there is a common one I have been using for sometime (thanks to my Brother In Law) that can take the punishment of a dishwasher and holds up to it well (as long as they don't do it everyday on sanitation mode) and that would be Titebond III.

4.  Recommended finishes.  I do not use or condone any of the mineral oils, and absolutely no epoxies, plastic sealers or polyurethanes.  You will not find them on the real good stuff (read expensive) only bees waxes, and natural oils, for good reason-they can trap bacteria.  Now for formulation and application, each artisan that I know of that does this kind of woodworking on a regular basis has their own blends and methods, but they are all pretty close in nature, so I will just share what mine is and you can go from there.

For all the surfaces that do not see direct food contact (not that that matters as I use food grade products) I apply a blend made by Land Ark and sold by Heritage finishes.  That takes care of the tables, chairs, under counters, islands etc.  For the butcher blocks, cutting boards, etc. that see direct food contact, I do the following:

I sand it to 320 grit (180 would be fine-or use a sharp plane-it's the best finish in general) and treat with a high grade pure Tung Oil with no thinners or driers.    It should have a light nutty odor. A Pure Tung Oil finish mixed with Citrus Solvent is an all-natural organic finish that is environmentally safe and food safe.  If the owner see the wood surface they use "dulling" or overly "fuzzing" they can pay me to refinish or simple do some light sanding themselves and reapply the original finish. It's that simple.

Hope this helps,

Regards,

jay
"To posses an open mind, is to hold a key to many doors, and the ability to created doors where there were none before."

"When it is all said and done, they will have said they did it themselves."-teams response under a good leader.

mdennisusa1

I know some if not all commercial kitchens have to use a bleach/water dip to steralize all utensils that come in contact with food.  You might want to ask if they are doing this.  If so, that is going to kill your mineral oil/bees wax finish immediatly and likely raise the grain.  So re-oiling isn't going to solve the raised grain problem.  What I don't know is, if sanding and if necessary re-sanding will eventually solve the grain rasing issue...providing they are bleaching...and re-bleaching. 

Interesting problem though.  Please let us know the outcome/solution if you find one...
Woodmizer LT15  Kubota L3200.  Woodworker

JohnW

The boards must be a big hit for serving appetizers.  Plastic would not have the same appeal.  Maybe you can figure out a way to make them faster than they can tear them up.

mesquite buckeye

Quote from: JohnW on May 21, 2013, 11:00:31 PM
The boards must be a big hit for serving appetizers.  Plastic would not have the same appeal.  Maybe you can figure out a way to make them faster than they can tear them up.

This is actually a great idea. Restaurant gets super nice platters, you get work refinishing and making replacements. I love it. ;D
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Klicker

Thank you all for your replies.  Especially your detailed info, Jay, as usual it is so helpful to have you weigh in with all your experience.  One question, I am wondering exactly what you mean by citrus solvent, is there a brand name?  I have located the natural tung oil. I was not really looking for more work sanding!  I am too busy making more original boards.  People do like the boards, especially figured (but sound) ones with live edge for serving food.  Those of us who are surrounded by wood and nature all the time need to stand back and realize sometimes just how far most people are removed from the natural world and how much they admire and appreciate a small piece of it, like a wood serving board. People literally stop at my table at the market constantly and just touch the wood like they are patting a kitten or puppy. Anyway, I will let you all know what's happening after I meet the chef on Saturday and get a look at the boards.
2006 LT 40 HD

Jay C. White Cloud

QuoteThose of us who are surrounded by wood and nature all the time need to stand back and realize sometimes just how far most people are removed from the natural world and how much they admire and appreciate a small piece of it, like a wood serving board. People literally stop at my table at the market constantly and just touch the wood like they are patting a kitten or puppy.
Wonderfully put Klicker, I really like the way you described that.

Quotecitrus solvent, is there a brand name?
No brand, just a good food grade quality pure form will do.

Here are my two primary sources for finishes.  Look forward to your report to us on the boards.  Besides a sanded finish, a good sharp plane I often find to be much faster and leaves a traditional finish smoother than sanding.  If you want speed for an item like this, use a plane. 

http://www.heritagenaturalfinishes.com/

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/powder.html

Regards,

jay
"To posses an open mind, is to hold a key to many doors, and the ability to created doors where there were none before."

"When it is all said and done, they will have said they did it themselves."-teams response under a good leader.

lowpolyjoe


Klicker

Jay, my wife has pure sweet orange oil cold pressed from peels that she uses in soap making.  Do you think this would work as the citrus solvent?  Would you mix the orange oil with the natural tung oil and apply the mixture as the wood finish?  I guess I don't understand how the two actually work together.  I have a lot to learn about finishes, but I'm so happy to have this forum so I can learn how to do it right.  Also thank you for the links to companies that carry eco friendly wood finishes.  It is hard for us to source them locally.  Thank you again for all your help.  We are also going to write up some care instructions for the boards that I can leave with the restaurant on Saturday.  At least then it will be in writing.
2006 LT 40 HD

Axe Handle Hound

Klicker- if your goal is to use a "natural" finish then the citrus-tung oil process is a good choice, but don't expect it to perform any different or better than your current mineral oil-beeswax finish.  While I have no issues with Jay's recommended finish I disagree with the idea that polyurethanes or mineral oils will trap bacteria any more than tung oil.  Mineral oil and tung oil are both non-drying oils and consequently, will perform very much the same on a wooden cutting/serving board.  Olive oil should be avoided as it can go rancid and create an off taste in foods that come into contact with it.   The purpose of the thinned polyurethane saturation is to seal the pores of the wood and prevent migration of liquids into the subsurface layers of the wood.  If no water can penetrate the board no bacteria can migrate there.  Yes, there is potentially some truth to the possibility that such a sealed board could harbor bacteria in deep knife cuts because based on some studies it's the wicking action of natural wood that helps pull bacteria off the surface and into the wood where natural anti-microbial activity will destroy it.  However, if you consider that the current standard for the food industry is UHMW plastic cutting boards which are subject to the same knife cuts and potentially harbor the same bacteria and yet so few people get sick, it seems unreasonable to condemn a polyurethane stabilized board.  Furthermore, a polyurethane sealed board will be much easier to refinish in the future if it becomes rough from use.  Boards sealed with oils are very difficult to resand as the abrasive paper becomes clogged with sticky dust almost immediately.   I will say that stabilizing a board with polyurethane as I mentioned is only appropriate for end grain applications.  In a flat sawn orientation it would almost certainly just lie on the surface and create a film that will wear/flake off in very short order.  Being that you're dealing with whole boards, not a glued up assembly this post may be a bit unhelpful other than as information for future projects.   :)

Jay C. White Cloud

Hello Klicker,

Quotemy wife has pure sweet orange oil cold pressed from peels that she uses in soap making.  Do you think this would work as the citrus solvent?
Sounds promising and I like that you can make it yourself.  You maybe able to even provide your customers with a "refinishing kit" to sell with the boards.  I would buy one of the products I gave you reference to and compare.  Let us know what you find out. ???

QuoteWould you mix the orange oil with the natural tung oil and apply the mixture as the wood finish? 
That's it.  Maybe a 80 orange/20 tung for the first coat, then a 20 orange/80 tung for the second.  Do some experimenting and let us know what you think.



Hi AHH,

Sorry I have to push back on several points.  I will try my best to validate my reasoning.

Quotebut don't expect it to perform any different or better than your current mineral oil-beeswax finish. 
There is a difference in as much that mineral oil is a "non-drying oil" and tung oil is classed as a "drying oil, this makes their use different, as well as, their characteristics in treating wood.

QuoteWhile I have no issues with Jay's recommended finish I disagree with the idea that polyurethanes or mineral oils will trap bacteria any more than tung oil.
Sorry if I was confusing on this point, I did not mean to infer that mineral oil traps bacteria.  I do so with plastics and most man made polymers of any kind.  We have seen the old argument that wood cutting board were unsafe because of "bacteria build up."  This started in the late 70's to early 80's, then the research indicated that plastic cutting board, in normal use, harbor way more bacteria than did wood surfaces.  If you look at, or have examined in laboratory, the less expensive cutting boards that have a plastic finish, such as polyurethane on them, they act virtually like a plastic cutting board.  The small nicks and scratches can actually hold moisture and food particles better than wood, not drying out effectively, thereby allowing a medium for bacterial growth.  As you describe it,
QuoteThe purpose of the thinned polyurethane saturation is to seal the pores of the wood and prevent migration of liquids into the subsurface layers of the wood.
and this is exactly what you do not want to do on a cutting board surface with a plastic because as you cut on it, just like a plastic cutting board, you create fissures that can trap and hold moisture and the reason I, and others do condemn polyurethane stabilized board.  I would also have to disagree that a polyurethane finish is easier to refinish than an oil one as once the oil has "cured" it actually sands or planes off easier that any of the "plastic" finishes.

QuoteMineral oil and tung oil are both non-drying oils and consequently, will perform very much the same on a wooden cutting/serving board.
This is plainly not the case, as stated earlier.  Mineral oil is a "non-drying oil" while Tung Oil is a "drying oil, as are flax (linseed) and walnut oils; both reasons they are used in handmade oil paints.

QuoteOlive oil should be avoided as it can go rancid and create an off taste in foods that come into contact with it.   
I will not debate this point as cheap olive oils do indeed go rancid very rapidly, and perhaps I should of stated "green extra virgin," as that is what I meant, and what 90% of the Chefs I know and have worked with use, including my Brother in law, who I have seen pour out $2000 bottles of wine at restaurants because they "smelled off." If he can't get the kind of olive oil he wants for his cutting boards, he will use coconut oil, which might be even better.  Here are several quotes from Chiefs/Woodworkers and related folks:

QuoteI've used olive oil to oil my boards for many years now, and have never had it go rancid. by Panthera-Chief

QuoteAll of my boards are finished with a coat of olive oil. by Lee Chesson - Designer/Craftsman

QuoteYou now need to replenish the oils in your wood. Use plain olive oil, rather than synthetic woodworking products. Siân Berry-author
"To posses an open mind, is to hold a key to many doors, and the ability to created doors where there were none before."

"When it is all said and done, they will have said they did it themselves."-teams response under a good leader.

SwampDonkey

I've made serving trays, not a production thing, just for myself and family. I use linseed oil and mix some turpentine in for a couple coats than just the linseed. Rub between finishes and dry well to make sure access oil doesn't turn to gum. No food comes in contact, for instance they aren't salad bowls. Just TV serving trays that carry dishes and silverware. Now if I'm gonna die by holding the handle, then shoving a piece of buttered bread in my mouth with that same hand, then I'd me long dead and buried. ;)

For a salad bowl or one for holding nuts, pure linseed without the additives or mineral oil, but I would not dismiss Jay's ideas on this. For a salad bowl, I would not be dumping the salad dressing in on it until I had it on my plate. So basically I would be using a damp cloth that was soaked with bleach water and not dunking the bowl in the sink.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Axe Handle Hound

Jay- nothing wrong with differing opinions.  It gives rise to new ideas and hopefully improves the practice.

There is a difference in as much that mineral oil is a "non-drying oil" and tung oil is classed as a "drying oil, this makes their use different, as well as, their characteristics in treating wood.

I will concede that true tung oil is a "drying oil", but there are volumes of evidence that show it does not "dry" very well.  Lots of people use tung oil and discover that it remains "sticky" to the touch for weeks and months after application.   

Sorry if I was confusing on this point, I did not mean to infer that mineral oil traps bacteria.  I do so with plastics and most man made polymers of any kind.  We have seen the old argument that wood cutting board were unsafe because of "bacteria build up."  This started in the late 70's to early 80's, then the research indicated that plastic cutting board, in normal use, harbor way more bacteria than did wood surfaces.  If you look at, or have examined in laboratory, the less expensive cutting boards that have a plastic finish, such as polyurethane on them, they act virtually like a plastic cutting board.  The small nicks and scratches can actually hold moisture and food particles better than wood, not drying out effectively, thereby allowing a medium for bacterial growth.  As you describe it, "The purpose of the thinned polyurethane saturation is to seal the pores of the wood and prevent migration of liquids into the subsurface layers of the wood." and this is exactly what you do not want to do on a cutting board surface with a plastic because as you cut on it, just like a plastic cutting board, you create fissures that can trap and hold moisture and the reason I, and others do condemn polyurethane stabilized board.

You may do so freely, but the Health Departments of America do not and as I said, if it were truly as deadly as suggested we would all get sick every time we ate at a restaurant.  I do agree with you though that I prefer a wooden cutting board over plastic, but saying a sealed wooden board is dangerous is a pretty big stretch.  If I were slathering it with raw chicken regularly I would probably agree with you more.

I would also have to disagree that a polyurethane finish is easier to refinish than an oil one as once the oil has "cured" it actually sands or planes off easier that any of the "plastic" finishes.

This one we'll have to respectfully agree to disagree on.  A dried polyurethane finish comes off relatively easy in my experience, especially in an end grain cutting board situation like I was talking about. It serves to stiffen the fibers of the wood making them very easy to abrade.  In contrast, a soggy oil finish just can't be sanded.  I will give you that if the oil is truly dry and cured it could sand like a dried polyurethane, but it's just never been my experience that they ever fully dry. 

I will not debate this point as cheap olive oils do indeed go rancid very rapidly, and perhaps I should of stated "green extra virgin," as that is what I meant, and what 90% of the Chefs I know and have worked with use, including my Brother in law, who I have seen pour out $2000 bottles of wine at restaurants because they "smelled off." If he can't get the kind of olive oil he wants for his cutting boards, he will use coconut oil, which might be even better.  Here are several quotes from Chiefs/Woodworkers and related folks:

I'm glad to hear they're having good success with it and it's likely due to them being dedicated and particular about maintaining their cutting boards.  Something the average customer just isn't very good at.  Just remember, olive oil is a non-drying oil so that's going to make for some difficult sanding if you have to refinish.


Tree Feller

All clear finishes are food safe once they are cured. The reason for using an oil on a wooden food utensil is ease of replenishment. There is no film to remove before applying another. It's also a fact that plastic cutting boards harbor more bacteria than wooden ones do.

It's also a fallacy, propagated by the finishing and wood care products companies, that wood regularly needs it's natural oils replenished. Poppycock. That's nothing but either ignorance or prevarication. If the wood isn't washed the oils never leave it.

I turn, sell and mostly give away wooden bowls. I always tell the recipient that it cannot be washed like glass or china dishes but to wipe clean with a damp rag, only, and absolutely do not put it in the dishwasher. At craft and art shows, I always get asked, "can I put hot soup in this bowl?" It's wood lady. Would you pour hot soup on your coffee table?

For a wooden serving tray, consider placing a shallow, washable insert into the wooden carrier. That way, the diners still get the experience of the earthy vessel but only the insert gets soiled and needs washing. In any event, give care instructions with them because people will do some very stupid stuff with wood and then act surprised when the vessel reacts like wood always does.
Cody

Logmaster LM-1 Sawmill
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SwampDonkey

Butter making was done up here with wooden paddles in a earthenware churn, worked and washed in a wooden butter tray and pressed into one lb blocks with a wooden press and wrapped in 'butter' paper, and done this way for a very long time. My grandmother was a great butter maker and she used to make and sell it until she was in her late 70's. I ate a wash tub full over the years and no one ever got sick of butter made with wooden tools that I ever heard tell of. I have her butter tray now and other wooden tools, but my uncle never looked after them and they are now spoiled and unusable. I also have my grandfather's grandmother's butter tray and paddle that was looked after. They are made of butternut. My grandparents lived to be 87 and ate lots of home made butter. ;D But my grandmother was no slob when it came to being clean. Some people's butter I wouldn't touch, no how.  :-X
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

5quarter

Klicker...sounds like a simple fix. When you make your boards, get them to the desired smoothness and wet them up. this will raise the fibers. resand them and do it again. after two or three times, you will notice very little change in surface texture. Then finish as normal. Have them clean the boards with a damp towel, air dry and then recoat with mineral oil. You can also hone your boards before appling the finish. you are essentially compressing the wood fibers and it makes for a smoother, more sanitary surface. I don't use beeswax, as is does not last beyond the first few cleanings, but it sure does look and feel nice. All woodenware must be cared for or its useful life is greatly diminished. As long as your customers work to maintain them, they should last indefinitely.
A word about olive oil... the best stuff will go rancid in about 3-4 weeks. Restaurants routinely clean and re-oil their wooden ware nightly, so it is not a problem for them. for home use, I would not recommend it as the woodenware may not get used for weeks at a time.
While we're on the subject, I hate the term "feeding the wood". wood is not hungry. but it is exposed to air and moisture if not treated. we treat woodenware with natural oils to reduce the exchange of air and moisture between the wood and its environment. I prefer the term "protect the wood", as it more accurately describes what we are doing.
Klicker...perhaps you can post a couple pics of your work?
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

Klicker

To update, the customer brought me some boards and they looked like the finish was completely gone.  It only happened to some of the boards. The customer was not at all unhappy, he just wanted to know what he should do.  He was very excited to hear about the chef who uses the high quality olive oil and he didn't think rancidity would be a problem because the boards are wiped off so frequently, several times a night.  He is going to try the olive oil.  In the meantime,  we are experimenting with Jay's tung oil/ orange oil formulations on one piece and our mineral oil/beeswax paste on another piece cut from the same board to see how they compare.  We also did the damp cloth to raise the grain and then re-sand, that seems to help.  Anyway, will keep you posted.
2006 LT 40 HD

Jay C. White Cloud

Hey Klicker, et al,

I'm sorry I have not touch back in on this discussion for a few days, got busy.  I am so excited to follow along with your "experiment."  I am sure we will all learn something from what you share!!!

I feel bad sometimes when I write, as it is not like in a class or open conversation.  Each time a student or member of a group makes a statement it reminds me of something I forget to share...getting old I guess and can't keep the thoughts as straight as I use to.

Grain Raising and Case Hardening

Many, if not most, of the "wooden ware" I have designed and built goes through a process of opening the grain, "raising" and shearing off those elements of the woods dry cell structure.  End grain and quarter sawn will always make for more endure pieces of your work.  Wetting and re planing or sanding is almost a must, and I'm sorry I forgot to mention it earlier.

The other part of this process is "case hardening" which can be tedious and not always warranted, but does produces a superior product.  You can almost think of it as "tempering steel" in a good knife or tool, as it is done in similar ways.  I can't even go into all the process as they are too many and varied depending on application of the woodenware.  Some involves "scorching" or "charring" the wood and then resurfacing, others involve "baking" or "kiln tempering" the wood, sometimes very close to the "flashpoint" of the material.

Updates You May Find Useful

QuoteA word about olive oil... the best stuff will go rancid in about 3-4 weeks
I don't disagree with much of what Fivequarter wrote about olive oil and he is most correct in how it is used by professionals.  It is applied and almost all is wiped off during each application and this can happen from several times a week to, several times a night. When I get into some serious "cooking" we go through a lot of olive oil, both in the cooking and "oiling or things."  The one point I will make about "good" olive oil, is it will not go rancid in 3 to 4 weeks or even close to that.  You can take a good quality "extra virgin" and poor some in a small  wooden bowl, and leave it out for a long time before it will good rancid, especially if you cover the boil.  This has been a common practice on many a dining table throughout the Middle East and Mediterranean for thousands of years, up to this very day.

Addition to my methods, after speaking to others in the trade as of late, is the employment of "coconut butter-oil" into the process.  It is easier to use than olive oil in many cases and does not go rancid at all.  A nice "bar" (it looks like Ivory soap) is a great thing to have around, to augment the maintenance of your wooden ware.  You may want to include some in your "maintenance kit."

Beeswax is not that enduring by itself, but working in concert with the other elements of the process this is not the case.  It is very enduring indeed.  As can be seen in the 5000 to 7000 year old examples of it in museum pieces from Egypt and other regions of the Middle East.

Regards,

jay
"To posses an open mind, is to hold a key to many doors, and the ability to created doors where there were none before."

"When it is all said and done, they will have said they did it themselves."-teams response under a good leader.

5quarter

Glad to hear that you're seeing some improvement. If you have a few photos of some of your work, I'd love to see them.

Jay...You're right that the shelf life of olive oil in a bowl is longer than 3-4 weeks, but the fine film left on a wooden bowl or spoon gets smelly well before the bowl of oil does. not a problem for restaurants, but home kitchens should avoid it. BTW...that is a good tip regarding Coconut oil. I use it quite a bit when sauteing vegetables and especially seafood. and of course for popcorn! I will experiment with that on some of my wooden utensils this week.
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

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