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Gettin' paid to make sawdust! :D

Started by OlJarhead, May 19, 2013, 08:51:53 PM

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OlJarhead

First a BIG THANKS! To all of you for your support, ideas, encouragement and knowledge...I'll of course, continue to bug you ad nausium but for now THANKS!


Here ya go!  See, we made sawdust and someone paid us to do it!

The Super Manley LT10 produced 1825 board feet of Doug Fir (a little Spruce and Tamarack mixed in but 90% DF) lumber for our new customer this weekend.  We produced 975 on the first day in 8 hours of milling and 850 pm the second day in 5.5 hours of milling (day two we managed a pretty decent 154bf/hr).

We ran into one log that was spiked for about 3 feet (one band gone) and then after a delay in changing the blade and determining the depth of the problem we hit a second nail or 5 after dropping the head down what we thought was a safe distance (customer requested we try for three inches below obvious signs and was willing to pay for the band if it didn't work -- it didn't, he paid).


It rained NON-STOP in BUCKETS on us and we were soaked to the bone both days but we never quit and the customer didn't either :D  He wanted the logs milled so we milled them :)


I am very proud of my son for hanging with me in the most miserable conditions (I'm an old jarhead after all so "if it aint raining we aint training") and really doing a great job!  Never split one pith and boxed every heart but those the customer asked us not to (yes that happened twice and we ran the blade right down over the pith instead of cutting a 1x and boxing it in).

We milled 23 logs total and produced a LOT more then International 1/4 scale.

Didn't make much (net) but enough to warrant doing it again and getting better at it :D

And the customer?  He's already planning the next trip!  He also advised us that a friend near by with 300 acres of trees asked for our card and said they'd be calling us soon :)

We hit the ground running, never stopped, worked our tails off and will be back :D  What more can a guy ask for?
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

OH and the LT10 clamps?  They will be coming off the mill and will be replaced before the next job -- they SUCK!

2 1/2 years of milling and I had to put NAILS under the clamps to shim them up so they'd mostly work.  Crap I say!

Looks like the SMLT10 will get a new clamp design ASAP!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

clww

Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
"Go Ask The Other Master Chief"
18-Wheeler Driver

Dave Shepard

Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

YellowHammer

Way to go! 8)  I love to see a plan come together!
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

mad murdock

I gotta say you are looking pretty "dapper" there ol jarhead sporting you USMC BDU cap wearing that duster in the rain!  I think you should be one of the calendar subjects for an up an coming FF calendar! Way to go 8)
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

WDH

I am impressed with your production.  That is a whack of wood to cut with a LT10.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

OlJarhead

Thanks all! 

The Duster? I love that coat! It was raining SO MUCH that I was soaked through and through but warm (thanks to all the work I suspect) and loving it!  The cover is, well, all I'll wear in the woods -- I don't normally wear 'hats' so my USMC cover is it :)  Though I do wear the occasional oil skin bush hat when the kids haven't walked off with it ;)


Drenched but constantly moving!


We found we could really push that 10hp Briggs and kept it singing right running flat out almost non-stop!  We practically ran the logs onto the mill and if it wasn't for their small size and often bowed shape I think we would have done much better board foot rates.  But then reality is probably that it's mostly going to be this way and I'm ok with that :)


The customer ran out of stickers so we milled them out of flitches and kept him well stocked. 

I did try to convince him to stack like sizes together etc and I believe he plans to restack the piles better when the weather breaks.  We did a ton of 2x6's as well as many 1x6's with a smattering of 2x8's and 4x8's mixed in there. 
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

beenthere

Quotethey SUCK!...............Crap I say!


Seems a bit harsh. What is the point, other than you don't like them?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

OlJarhead

Quote from: beenthere on May 19, 2013, 09:22:35 PM
Quotethey SUCK!...............Crap I say!


Seems a bit harsh. What is the point, other than you don't like them?

Sorry it's just that they wouldn't clamp half the time.  We were constantly holding them in place, re-adjusting, jamming shims under them, re-adjusting, holding them and on and on....worst is when they pop off and the cant slips sideways and you lose a band (happened once previously) and of course, for the customer, is when they WON'T hold the CANT onto the deck flat but keep lifting it up like a lap siding attachment.  Heck, wanna make lap siding with the OLD (disclaimer these are the old and no longer made by WM clamps) LT10 clamps it's easy, just use them.

DISCLAIMER:  I LOVE my Woodmizer mill!!!!  Don't get me wrong folks.  However, I'm just being honest the old style LT10 clamps are so bad they are just not worth it (and I have two of them)...I won't use them again.
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

I should add that if you look at the very first pic posted above you will see me holding a clamp so it won't pop off....yes we did this often :(

Thank you WM for replacing those with something better in the later LT10's -- now if I could just come up with a better design -- wonder what the LT28's use?
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

drobertson

I have tried to study the design of the clamps on these manual mills, still a bit baffled, I agree, improvements can always be made, can you give some close up photos of the clamp?  I just like the challenge of improving, at minimal cost.  I have seen them from pics, it looks like a better cam set up is in order, just saying, not mouthing off,    david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

OlJarhead

I will perhaps in my build thread -- I believe they should be replaced with a screw clamp.  Course thread (maybe all-thread rod from rail to rail) main rod for fast adjustment, slip fit pipe over the all-thread rod with a 8-12 inch swing arm that houses a T-Bolt at the end with course threads and a 3/4" foot for fine tuning the clamp once in place.

2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

dgdrls

Quote from: beenthere on May 19, 2013, 09:22:35 PM
Quotethey SUCK!...............Crap I say!


Seems a bit harsh. What is the point, other than you don't like them?

perhaps a bit harsh, however,  they don't work well, and the newer style ones can be challenging too,
I can understand OJR's  frustration.  I'll bet he will find a better way
DGD


justallan1

It's a good day when you feel good about playing in the rain. Sounds like you've about got it set up to where you want it.

Allan

5quarter

Beenthere...the point is they're crap and they suck, So says our good friend who might have been further ahead using his boot to hold the log down.  ;)

BTW...that's some great work OJ! I'm not sure I would have been so dedicated, given that it was raining the whole time :o Looks like you and your boy made a good team!
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

OlJarhead

Actually, I hate to admit it but I actually used my hand to hold the cant in place near the end of the cut.  My customer, bless his heart, would relieve my clamp holding duty near the end of the cut so I could assist in drawing the head back.

'nuff on that, I've got some ideas and WILL solve the problem! 

We had a LOT of small logs plus the log full of nails and we went through TEN bands (two to damage and 8 to milling)...we ran through so many gallons of water I can't really say how much but I'd hazzard a guess at 25 gallons DESPITE the bloomin' rain (which was washing everything clean including my skivvies I think! lol

Some notes on the job:

1.  I've always known logs under 10 inches in diameter slow me down a bunch but I never realized how much anything under 12 inches in small end diameter can reduce production numbers until we hit our stride and milled one log that scaled out at ~77 using the International 1/4 scale (so I figured 90+ on the WM using INT 1/4 scale plus 15%) in 20 minutes....which took very little time to load I might add (motivated crew).  I'm fairly certain we could maintain 180+ bf/hr with logs like that.

2.  Stressed Doug Fir takes a lot longer to mill then nice straight Ponderosa.

3.  The SMLT10 is best operated with two operators which isn't very cost effective but does the job.  What we do is the sawyer runs the head setting the cut etc etc and the assistant (me) runs the lube, helps move the head down the log and helps return the head to the start position.

4.  Leaving the mill engaged (blade turning and full throttle) keeps you sawing longer.
5.  If you can keep the band in/on the wood you will be faster -- by this I mean we come off the end releasing the board milled but before the band leaves the log we return to the start position, drop to the next position and start again -- repeat until done!
6.  Perhaps it was in Tom's notes somewhere, or someone else mentioned it here but leaving the head at the end of the bed when loading a log is genius!  THANKS!  We leave it there (not engaged of course) load the log, clamp it (or try to *snicker*) and then begin drawing the head back to the start, stop half way, check height, return to start, drop 1" below center and mill.
7.  When milling a stressed log on the 'ears' side DO NOT try to return the head after exiting the log without raising it!!!  My son did this ONCE and lost the band...changed blade and away we went but we learned not to allow that to happen.
8. 5 minute blade change!  Ya it can be done!  I think mostly it took longer but I know of at least once it was 5 minutes and then back in action!  The kid is getting it down but we do this by doing the following:

At the end of the cut the sawyer disengages, kills the throttle and kills the engine, the assistant waits for the band to stop turning and then drops the tension lever to release the band then walks to the truck and grabs the new band, returns to the mill, swaps the old one for the new one and returns the old one to the 'old band' section of the layout (we always have a place to set the bands, teeth down, when milling).  By the time I came back from setting the old band down the kid was checking the alignment and ready to close the covers and crank the mill up!  TEAMWORK!

Log ramps need to be stronger -- one flipped sideways and BENT under the load of the log -- that was a 4x2 heavy channel with custom made feet and bed fixing brackets...it just bent like aluminum! (note to self:  wider feet, teeth on both sides).

So much more and so little time -- for now I need sleep :)

Cheers and thanks!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

OlJarhead

Oh and the rain?  I'm serious about making a go of this and if a little rain (ok torrential downpour is more like it) is going to stop me then I ought to hang up my bands and find something else to do I recon! :D
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Chuck White

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

kelLOGg

I had screw clamps and found it takes too long to wind and unwind them so I copied robnrob2's design and they work great! I made 4 of them and have never regretted it. (Whatever happened to robnrob2? don't hear from any more) Check out the link: https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,41852.0.html

Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

roghair

Good reading Jarhead, thanks.

Below just my few cents on your quote:

Quote from: OlJarhead on May 19, 2013, 09:49:33 PM
I will perhaps in my build thread -- I believe they should be replaced with a screw clamp.  Course thread (maybe all-thread rod from rail to rail) main rod for fast adjustment, slip fit pipe over the all-thread rod with a 8-12 inch swing arm that houses a T-Bolt at the end with course threads and a 3/4" foot for fine tuning the clamp once in place.

If I understand your design I think I have something like that and I am not too happy with them all the time. Point is if you want to clamp the last few boards, this 8-12 inch swing arm is positioned more horizontal and this tends to twist the log upwards from the bed. The reason for that is the point of the t-bolt that goes in the cant, is not fixed to prevent a vertical movement. For thinner cants/boards, it is crucial to have a clamp that ONLY puts horizontal force to the cant.



I plan to replace mine, but I am not sure about the best design.
Like David (drobertson) said, can you post some pictures of yours. David if you have a better design for these manual clamps, please let us know  :)
built a sawmill

roghair

KelLOGg, that looks like a good design, and I agree with you; turning the t-bolts takes too long.
How far below the bed is the hinge-point(?) of the swing arm on which the clamp is mounted? In other words how horizontal is the the arm when you have to clamp thin boards?
built a sawmill

Meadows Miller

Yeeeee Haaaa Nothing quite like it hey Mate  :) ;)  ;D ;D ;D ;D 8) 8) 8) 8) smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup

Btw I use to not dog my center cants most of the time when resawing  ;)
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Tom L

Quote from: OlJarhead on May 19, 2013, 09:37:32 PM
I should add that if you look at the very first pic posted above you will see me holding a clamp so it won't pop off....yes we did this often :(

Thank you WM for replacing those with something better in the later LT10's -- now if I could just come up with a better design -- wonder what the LT28's use?

the 28 uses a roundbar that fits into holes that are spaced across the center of the mill. the top of the roundbar has a large cam on it made out of flat plate and a handle. you put the roundbar into the  hole closest to the log or cant.
then rotate the handle to force the cam into the log. it is held in place with a chain and spring.
it is a nice setup that weights around what feels like 500 lbs at the end of the day, gets tough to do at the end of the day with one arm holding the log and the other arm trying to pull the roundbar out of the existing hole and move it to a closer hole to clamp the log.
nice job over the weekend, that is a lot of lumber on an lt10

OlJarhead

Thanks again all.

Hey, I forgot to mention I actually passed a Woodmizer (I think an LT40) going the opposite way on HWY 97 on my way home!!!  First time I've seen one mobile EVER and there I was towing the SMLT10! lol

Too bad we were both heading in the opposite directions and with a purpose.

I should also add that I got this job because the guy nearest the customer won't move his mill (among other things).  When I met the customer they thought a bandmill couldn't do the job because their logs weren't perfectly clean because they'd also been told that bandmills would get ruined bands if the log was dirty so they were thinking they would have to haul their logs to a guy with a traditional mill.  I advised them that it was best to brush off the worst of the dirt and rocks etc and that clean logs would sure be nice but I'd mill everything he had for me without fussing over a little dirt.  He told me he had 12 saw logs....I gave him an estimate on how many we might do in a day and headed home.

Before returning we replaced the 7hp 'hobby' motor (that's what I'm calling it now since it's great for that but not for production) with the 10hp hotrod motor we ordered from WoodMizer (that thing sounds like a little hotrod I swear! lol) and showed up ready to work....and milled 23 logs instead :D

The customer actually fell a big fir on the day we were milling because he realized we meant business and intended to mill ALL of the logs he had!! 

He fell more trees later on that first day and promised to have them ready for us as soon as he could.  He also decided to try to only have stuff in the 10-20 inch diameter range since it was obvious the 8" logs slowed us down a lot!
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

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