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Best sharpening service for band blades- multiple kinds

Started by efiles123, May 10, 2013, 01:50:24 PM

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efiles123

So I've piled up about a dozen of band blades of several different brands/models and was wondering who knows a reliable service to sharpen.  These blades consist of Norwood factory goldline, cobalt, Lenox woodmaster c-sharp, c, and b blades and the chipsweep.  I'm hoping I can find a service that will charge about $7-8 per blade.  I've used my local blade sharpening service but was not impressed as he charged $15 per blade and had a slow turn around.  Also a couple of my blades have some rust on them from being left outside for a little while.  Can they still be resharpened?  My local guy says he can't sharpen rusty blades because they won't run through his machine.

drobertson

Not sure what to say on this, get the blades cleaned off, scotch pad or whatever,  I would really consider finding a home remedy, cost might shock you, but you are then in control of the process,  hope the best for you,   david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

francismilker

so.................will any of the resharp programs sharpen rusted blades?  I've got a pile of them that are rusty as can be.  Guess I should've paid better attention to where I stacked them, but they're rusty.
"whatsoever thy hands finds to do; do it with thy might" Ecc. 9:10

WM LT-10supergo, MF-271 w/FEL, Honda 500 Foreman, Husq 550, Stihl 026, and lots of baling wire!

pineywoods

If you use water for lube, blades are gonna rust. Don't hurt a thing. If it did, I would be in serious trouble. Two cuts into the first log, they will be nice and shiney..
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Chuck White

Suggestion:

I know this isn't relative to this thread, but here goes anyway!

I sharpen my own and I set first, then sharpen.

Once they are sharpened they are taken out of the clamp on the sharpener and I pick up my handy rag saturated with ATF and with my hand, I clamp the blade within the rag and rotate the blade 2 revolutions so it will have a good coating of ATF on both sides!

I have never had a rusty blade!  ;)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Peter Drouin

with all the brands and models in 12 blades, I would not want to do  them ,rust or not, now that you know what blade  you want toss the old ones out and get one brand, so when you get a guy to do them ,it wont be to bad for him to set up and sharpen them all, not have to change set up 12 times :)
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Magicman

The different blade brands, etc. is probably why your sharpening guy is pricy.

Put the rust's on the sawmill and saw into a log.  That should knock the majority of the rust off.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Banjo picker

Sounds like you are looking for a price that some of the blade manufactures will sharpen their own blades for ....I doubt you will find anyone that will deal with that many diff. blades for that price....Even if someone had all those cams it would still be a pain  ....pay the guy the $15.00  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

bandmiller2

If your a serious miller get you own band grinder as Dave suggested.I bit the bullet years ago and my cats claw is all paid for now.They can be sharpened on a bench grinder with a simple mod and shaped stone.When you order more bands get them the same like WM or Cooks and they will sharpen them. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

bandmiller2

You can buy some of the cheaper bands for not much more than $15.00 that the guy charges you to sharpen.You can use a new band til dull and cut a lot of boards save the old ones and sell them to someone here and be ahead. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

efiles123

Thanks for all the informative responses guys, I've learned some new things.  I never figured that it would be an inconvenience to resharpen different brands but now that I think about it, it does make sense.  I've decided to just resharpen my expensive cobalt blades through the local sharpener and just let the cheaper blades build up.  Now that I've tried a variety of blades, I've decided to stick with Lenox blades.

efiles123

Quote from: bandmiller2 on May 10, 2013, 08:24:28 PM
You can buy some of the cheaper bands for not much more than $15.00 that the guy charges you to sharpen.You can use a new band til dull and cut a lot of boards save the old ones and sell them to someone here and be ahead. Frank C.

That's what I'm starting to realize.  One of my favorite blades is the Lenox chipsweep that sells for $17-18.  They also last long before needing resharpening.  I'm just glad I found my ideal blade instead of wasting money on some expensive blades that are mediocre.

losttheplot

You can sharpen all your different profiles on the same sharpener.
They may take a few trips around, and grinding all the profile might take a couple of sharpenings.
Eventually they will all be the same profile.

Might be better than throwing them away.
DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK !

barbender

The Chipsweep will be difficult to resharpen because of the odd gullet they have, something to consider.
Too many irons in the fire

Chuck White

I was thinking on the same lines as "Losttheplot".

As long as the tooth spacing is the same on all of the bands, they can be sharpened on the same sharpener setup!

Eventually they'll all end up the same!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

francismilker

Quote from: Chuck White on May 11, 2013, 08:38:15 AM
I was thinking on the same lines as "Losttheplot".

As long as the tooth spacing is the same on all of the bands, they can be sharpened on the same sharpener setup!

Eventually they'll all end up the same!

That's what ends up happening on my chainsaw chains.  After a sharpening or two, they all look the same.  Doesn't matter who manufactured them. :o
"whatsoever thy hands finds to do; do it with thy might" Ecc. 9:10

WM LT-10supergo, MF-271 w/FEL, Honda 500 Foreman, Husq 550, Stihl 026, and lots of baling wire!

Peter Drouin

Quote from: Chuck White on May 11, 2013, 08:38:15 AM
I was thinking on the same lines as "Losttheplot".

As long as the tooth spacing is the same on all of the bands, they can be sharpened on the same sharpener setup!

Eventually they'll all end up the same!


But I think you lose 1/2 the life that way, and how many times do go around and around, my cbm wheel would hit in one spot all the time ti'll I grind off all the steel to form to the cbm, the wheels are 100.oo each , I don't have a box of them :D :D :D
to me just not worth it
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Chuck White

No Peter, I wasn't suggesting anyone converting tooth/gullet angles with a CBN sharpener.  That could run into lots of money!

I would do it with a drag style sharpener though!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

bandmiller2

I use a Cooks cats claw and will sharpen different bands for folks.I'am not big on changing cams and hook angles.If someone wants me to sharpen their bands I'll take one or two and sharpen them like my own if they like them fine if they want something different they can go elsewhere unless its a big order then I'll change cams and angles.I like a good deep gullet and around a 7 degree hook. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Banjo picker

I have the cat claw system as well..I have 4 dif. cams....what you get into when you use the wrong cam with the band is you only hit the band in just certian spots...hopefully on the tip and on the back stroke...but you are burning your wheel up unevenly....when you sharpen with the correct cam you shape the grinding wheel and it hits continually from tip through the gullett and up the back...using the same bands you need to shape only sparingly...when you are only hitting in spots you have to continually reshape the wheel to keep it doing what you want....Too much bother from my stand point...and like has been said you burn up a lot of blade changing the shape along with lots of grinding wheel...Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

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