Woodmizer Autoclutch - useful?

WoodenHead · May 07, 2013, 09:55:49 AM

I'm looking at a few upgrades for my LT40 and autoclutch is one of the things I could change. I'm not unhappy with moving the lever by hand. It might be a little stiff to engage, but certainly not the end of world. Is there any particular advantage to autoclutch that makes it worthwhile to change over?

Actually I am interested in the board return, but it comes in two flavors - one for mills with autoclutch and one for mills without.

drobertson · May 07, 2013, 10:10:03 AM

The auto clutch is a handy feature for sure, the modules are a bit pricey but worth the cost at the end of the day. Drag backs are handy as well, if there is the proper set up to handle the boards as they come back, david

AdamT · May 07, 2013, 10:21:57 AM

I love my auto clutch. It was a standard feature when I ordered my mill.

I was told that the advantage of the manual lever over auto clutch, however, was that the operator could feel when the drive belt needed adjusting. I can see that to be true, but like I said, my auto clutch was standard, and I've never ran a mill with the manual lever.

I'd go with the auto clutch before the drag back option first.
Lubemizer will be my first upgrade, then I'll think about the board return.

Magicman · May 07, 2013, 10:25:45 AM

I have often thought about making that upgrade to my sawmill (as recent as a couple of months ago), but the cost always turns me back. I do use my weight instead of my arm to do the engaging and sometimes even both arms. My shoulder never complains, but sometimes my right knuckles do because of the stretching of my hand. Right now it is not a big deal, and when it does become a burden, then I might be hanging it up anyway. :-\

As Adam mentioned, I can tell when the drive belt needs more tension. A did add the Lube-Mizer option. Not for economic reasons, but for convenience.

I removed my board drag-back because being portable, there was no setup to utilize it. I also insist that all workers stay in front of me and within my vision. That way I can instantly cease the sawing operation when I see something that concerns me.

WM can give you the answers about which auto clutch version is correct for your particular sawmill.

John_Haylow · May 07, 2013, 04:17:33 PM

It was option put on my mill by the previous owner, I find it very handy.
John

Don K · May 07, 2013, 04:31:57 PM

Auto clutch came on my mill as a free option and I would hate to be without it. I can tell when I need to make adjustments by sound if that makes sense. I hate to think about engaging a lever multiple times a day, just flip a toggle on my control box and I'm cutting without repetitive motion.

Don

Peter Drouin · May 07, 2013, 05:49:00 PM

Quote from: Magicman on May 07, 2013, 10:25:45 AM
I have often thought about making that upgrade to my sawmill (as recent as a couple of months ago), but the cost always turns me back. I do use my weight instead of my arm to do the engaging and sometimes even both arms. My shoulder never complains, but sometimes my right knuckles do because of the stretching of my hand. Right now it is not a big deal, and when it does become a burden, then I might be hanging it up anyway. :-\

As Adam mentioned, I can tell when the drive belt needs more tension. A did add the Lube-Mizer option. Not for economic reasons, but for convenience.

I removed my board drag-back because being portable, there was no setup to utilize it. I also insist that all workers stay in front of me and within my vision. That way I can instantly cease the sawing operation when I see something that concerns me.

WM can give you the answers about which auto clutch version is correct for your particular sawmill.

I though you had autoclutch on your mill MM , you know when we get older your supposed to go easy on your self when you can . and a man with your wealth you should have an autoclutch or maybe a new mill that has one. you seem to like milling. at 69 im impressed with the work you do, you can't take the money with you :D :D
You and your Mrs should have the best in your golden years, thats what we work for all those years for

and no disrespect to you we all live the way we want, just be good to your self

;)

Jim H · May 07, 2013, 06:02:54 PM

I used a manual clutch for years. If you're sawing occasionally manual is fine. I was sawing full time and started to develop tennis elbow from grabbing and pulling all day, every day. I got the autoclutch on my latest mill and the symtoms were gone within 6 months.

wwsjr · May 07, 2013, 06:27:51 PM

On my first manual mill did not have autoclutch, sawed two years on the manual. Bought 2002 Std HD, added Autoclutch. 2006 Super added Command Console with Autoclutch, when I decided I did not want to walk with the mill anymore. The Cat 51hp was heavy to lift to start the cut. Since my 2006 Super burned, I ordered Command Console again. At my age, I cannot pull the lever anymore, would not do without Autoclutch, Accuset, Lubemizer, and Debarker. I also use the powered dragback that is standard on the Super.

Bibbyman · May 07, 2013, 06:55:03 PM

AutoCluch is not needed for mills with light, air cooled engines use by part time sawyers. Were they realy pay off is with the heavy engines and when you're using the mill a lot. Pulling that lever can cause damage to your arm.

We had a very early Super with 35 HP Wisconsin engine. When Mary ran it, she had to grab the handle with both hands, lock her elbows and let her knees buckle to pull the lever down.

customsawyer · May 07, 2013, 07:06:53 PM

Get the auto clutch you won't regret it.

WoodenHead · May 07, 2013, 07:21:27 PM

Hmmn. It seems that the general consensus is that autoclutch is a good feature and certainly helps with repetitive strain. Right now I have the 28HP gas (106lbs) and maybe would consider upgrading to the 35HP Kohler gas (132 lbs) in the future if needs required it. Right now I am using the mill on a regular basis, but the manual clutch hasn't bothered me. I demonstrated my LT28 the other day to a fellow (who ended up purchasing it) and nearly ripped the clutch handle off of it because I am so used to the LT40 now. :D

My priority upgrades/modifications are:

1. Hydraulics - I have the factory hydraulic loader, I made my own toe rollers and purchased a couple hydraulic backstops/linkage. I am ordering the bolt-on factory log turner which is an available option for LT40 manual mills. The backstops are actually part of the package too I found out. I'm still struggling with the two plane clamp - whether to cut the frame to accomodate or to come up with my own.

2. Drag back. I made one for my LT28 and noticed a significant productivity improvement for my stationary setup. But I have to decide on the autoclutch first because there are two versions of the drag back (one for autoclutch mills and one for non-autoclutch mills)

3. Accuset. A pricey upgrade, but I think will be worthwhile.

Admittedly autoclutch and lubemizer are lower on my priority list. If funds permit I'll do the lubemizer upgrade in the future. Unfortunately I have to decide on the autoclutch now. It's a $750+ upgrade so I'm having a hard time justifying it. :-\

Nomad · May 07, 2013, 07:26:20 PM

If I recall correctly, Tom Cadenhead (Mr. Tom) needed surgery on his shoulder from operating his mill for too long without an autoclutch. Even if he did have surgery, his shoulder wasn't worth a Dang toward the end of his life. Just something to think about.

WoodenHead · May 07, 2013, 08:08:12 PM

Nomad, you just convinced me. ;)

barbender · May 07, 2013, 08:24:25 PM

I haven't put enough time in on my mill to justify the auto clutch, if I start doing enough paying jobs I'll probably put it on. I leave my mill wound up and clutch engaged when gigging back most of the time, partly for speed but partly beacause I get sick of lifting that diesel engine :

MM, I use my dragback all the time when sawing portable, I find it keeps the offbearer well behind me and out of my way. Obviously, you portable mill full time and have a good notion what you are doing ;) I'm just curious why that drag back wouldn't work for you, speed and safety wise.

pineywoods · May 07, 2013, 08:35:48 PM

Useful, even on a mill with a lite-weight gas engine, and especially at my age. Mine's home-made, using a wheel chair motor, mill's so old, factory parts don't fit without extensive mods. .

Brucer · May 08, 2013, 12:40:34 AM

I had the manual clutch on my LT40 (28HP Kohler engine) when I was sawing part time. No problem.

I had the manual clutch on my LT40 hydraulic (same engine) when I started sawing full time. No problem -- at first. But my shoulder was starting to feel it after 6 months of full time sawing. So I bought the autoclutch upgrade and haven't regretted it for a second

.

I'm sure some people thought I was weird for a while after I installed the autoclutch. I reach out into the air with my right hand, get a confused look, and then remember to flick the switch with my left thumb :D.

The only difference between the two versions of the dragback option is the cover plates that go under the mill.

bandmiller2 · May 08, 2013, 06:02:16 AM

Please don't take this as an orange attack but it doesn't seem right to have to lift a heavy engine to tighten belts.Could you offset most of the engine weight with springs or get more of an advantage in the linkage.My homebuilt has twin "B" series belts and an over center idler very easy in and out.What actally does the work on an auto clutch is it a large solenoid or some outher means to lift the engine.?? Frank C.

scully · May 08, 2013, 07:56:39 AM

I have used a bunch of mills with manual enguage ,4 cyl Wisconson ,Kabota etc . for the amount of sawing I did it was fine . but now with my remote and the auto clutch I could never go back ! I think it is a much safer feature ! If you need to shut down fast the toggle is right at your fingertips ! It also blends well with accuset because when you are ripping boards off a square cant you can get in that zone and realy move without the distraction of hauling back on that lever . My second favorite thing is lube-mizer ! I hate stoping ever so often to fill my jug ! The board kicker is nice but I rarely ever use it .

thecfarm · May 08, 2013, 08:01:37 AM

I have a clutch on my Thomas like a chainsaw,just press the bicycle handle to the metal and go. Let go of the handle and it stops. Some of the other mills that they made are set up diffeant. My convenience is worth something as I say.

Dave Shepard · May 08, 2013, 09:02:45 AM

Frank, there is a motor with a plate on it that pushes on a rod. The plate is cam shaped to trip the magnetic limits. I'll take a pic when I go out to service the mill in a bit. I wouldn't want to go back to the lever.

petefrom bearswamp · May 08, 2013, 09:12:43 AM

My 2 cents worth.
Auto clutch a must,
De barker a must.
In my situation (stationary) drag back is very useful.
I am ambivalent about the lube mizer.
On pulse it works fairly well but when I am sawing big Norway spruce I sometimes have to use constant flow which gulps water in large amounts.

Dave Shepard · May 08, 2013, 08:25:34 PM

Made a quick video of the autoclutch on my LT40 Super.

http://youtu.be/Y7i36-7U5_Y

YellowHammer · May 08, 2013, 11:34:47 PM

To me its kind of like whether you drive a vehicle with a stick shift or an automatic transmission. Both work, but I sure prefer the auto clutch and a flick of a toggle switch.
YH

Brucer · May 09, 2013, 02:21:23 AM

Quote from: bandmiller2 on May 08, 2013, 06:02:16 AM
... it doesn't seem right to have to lift a heavy engine to tighten belts. ...

There's a bit more to it than that, Frank.

When you release the "clutch", the engine swings down (hinged on one side). Instead of resting on a stop of some kind, it ends up resting on one end of the brake band. In other words, the weight of the engine is used to stop the blade.

In this configuration, anything that counterbalances the weight of the motor will reduce the braking action when the clutch is disengaged.

Not saying it's the best way to do things, but there is a good deal of logic behind the design.